98 Civic sometimes won't start or stalls
98 Civic sometimes won't start or stalls
My stepdaughter has a 98 Civic EX manual. In late November, the car wouldn't start one day, but the next day it did. The same thing happened in early January and twice more a few days ago.
* It only happens after the car has been sitting for 8 hours or more.
* On three days, the external temperature was around 50 degrees, and perhaps 70 degrees on the most recent day.
* On one instance where she got it started, she drove several blocks down the street at 25mph and it stalled on her. She drove it back to the house and it stalled in front of the house. In each instance, she was able to restart it immediately without problem.
* When it starts, it starts immediately. On the times it has failed to start, the starter has cranked rapidly but shown no sound of ignition wanting to occur.
* On one instance where it had failed to start in the morning and I was around when she tried to start it in the afternoon, I observed that it chugged very briefly and caught, then the engine surged up to about 1,500 or 2,000 RPMs before settling to idle. She said the engine sounded differently than it usually acts during that part, and that it usually doesn't surge like that.
* It has been taken in to the Honda dealership twice in the last few weeks. They have been unable to determine any errors on diagnostic, nor have they retrieved any error codes from the ECU.
* We had the ignition switch replaced since that appeared to be a sometime suspect for similar symptoms, and had been under recall in the past. It has failed to start twice since that was replaced. She only has her car keys and alarm fob on that keyring, by the way (not a heavy, jangling mass of keys, in other words).
* She typically leaves her stereo on and starts it with the stereo going. I asked her to shut off the stereo and start it without it, but she has only done that after it has failed to start. Honda detected nothing unusual about the electrical draw from the stereo and they tested the battery and charging system as fine.
* Over two years ago, someone stole her stereo. Honda repaired the dash and replaced the stereo. She had an aftermarket alarm installed. She claims that after all this work, the check engine light never came on anymore when she started the car. After the recent visit to Honda where they replaced the ignition switch (and rewired the alarm to the new ignition switch) she says that now the check engine light comes on.
* She believes, but isn't sure, that on the times the car has failed to start, including since the ignition switch was replaced, that the check engine light has failed to come on. I have observed it coming on briefly and going out on the instances where the car has started, so I don't know whether she is right or not, but it might explain the lack of error codes.
* The car runs fine and has never stalled after the engine is warm, nor has it failed to start after the engine is warm.
* The timing belt was replaced by Honda about two years ago.
* After reviewing many descriptions of somewhat similar problems, I suggested to her that if it fails to start, to turn the key on for a couple seconds, then off, then on and off, then try to start it (I think someone said that if the fuel line has lost pressure or that the fuel pump isn't always kicking on, that this might help). At least two times it has failed to start, she has done this (in conjunction with turning off her stereo) and the car has subsequently started.
Based on what I've described, does anyone have a likely culprit?
My best guesses are:
* ECU itself
* Ignition Coil
* Fuel Pump
* Fuel Pump Regulator
* Throttle Position Sensor
* TW Sensor
The descriptions of problems with the following components don't seem to be as likely (some cause similar problems only when the engine or external temperature is warm):
* Ignition Control Module
* Main Relay Switch
* Rotor
* Distributor
* Crank Sensor
* Idle Air Control Valve
* Spark Plugs
* Spark Plug Wires
* It only happens after the car has been sitting for 8 hours or more.
* On three days, the external temperature was around 50 degrees, and perhaps 70 degrees on the most recent day.
* On one instance where she got it started, she drove several blocks down the street at 25mph and it stalled on her. She drove it back to the house and it stalled in front of the house. In each instance, she was able to restart it immediately without problem.
* When it starts, it starts immediately. On the times it has failed to start, the starter has cranked rapidly but shown no sound of ignition wanting to occur.
* On one instance where it had failed to start in the morning and I was around when she tried to start it in the afternoon, I observed that it chugged very briefly and caught, then the engine surged up to about 1,500 or 2,000 RPMs before settling to idle. She said the engine sounded differently than it usually acts during that part, and that it usually doesn't surge like that.
* It has been taken in to the Honda dealership twice in the last few weeks. They have been unable to determine any errors on diagnostic, nor have they retrieved any error codes from the ECU.
* We had the ignition switch replaced since that appeared to be a sometime suspect for similar symptoms, and had been under recall in the past. It has failed to start twice since that was replaced. She only has her car keys and alarm fob on that keyring, by the way (not a heavy, jangling mass of keys, in other words).
* She typically leaves her stereo on and starts it with the stereo going. I asked her to shut off the stereo and start it without it, but she has only done that after it has failed to start. Honda detected nothing unusual about the electrical draw from the stereo and they tested the battery and charging system as fine.
* Over two years ago, someone stole her stereo. Honda repaired the dash and replaced the stereo. She had an aftermarket alarm installed. She claims that after all this work, the check engine light never came on anymore when she started the car. After the recent visit to Honda where they replaced the ignition switch (and rewired the alarm to the new ignition switch) she says that now the check engine light comes on.
* She believes, but isn't sure, that on the times the car has failed to start, including since the ignition switch was replaced, that the check engine light has failed to come on. I have observed it coming on briefly and going out on the instances where the car has started, so I don't know whether she is right or not, but it might explain the lack of error codes.
* The car runs fine and has never stalled after the engine is warm, nor has it failed to start after the engine is warm.
* The timing belt was replaced by Honda about two years ago.
* After reviewing many descriptions of somewhat similar problems, I suggested to her that if it fails to start, to turn the key on for a couple seconds, then off, then on and off, then try to start it (I think someone said that if the fuel line has lost pressure or that the fuel pump isn't always kicking on, that this might help). At least two times it has failed to start, she has done this (in conjunction with turning off her stereo) and the car has subsequently started.
Based on what I've described, does anyone have a likely culprit?
My best guesses are:
* ECU itself
* Ignition Coil
* Fuel Pump
* Fuel Pump Regulator
* Throttle Position Sensor
* TW Sensor
The descriptions of problems with the following components don't seem to be as likely (some cause similar problems only when the engine or external temperature is warm):
* Ignition Control Module
* Main Relay Switch
* Rotor
* Distributor
* Crank Sensor
* Idle Air Control Valve
* Spark Plugs
* Spark Plug Wires
Re: 98 Civic sometimes won't start or stalls
Hi Cappy,
In all of my past experiences with Honda's (20+ years), it's almost always the simplest solution.
Since it seems to start and run once she gets fuel rail pressure up again, I have a few ideas to check. Start simple:
1. I'd first pull the small bolt that holds down he bottom of the rear seat cushion(10mm socket), pull the bottom out (by rotating the back of the bottom up first) and remove the cover to the fuel pump (if memory serves it's 5 bolts of the same size). Once that cover is off, be sure the ignition switch is off and disconnect the electrical connector on the fuel pump a few times. This should clean the contact points enough in case that was the issue. Since you don't have a location on your signature, I don't know if you have humidity where you live. Anyway, leave the cover off after doing that...and listen to the fuel pump after turning the ignition on. If it's making a whining sound (high pitched), then the pump could actually be bad. I've personally never heard a bad Honda pump, but GM's have a very distinctive high pitched almost squeal.
2. If the above doesn't yield any change or offer a solution, have your fuel pressure regulator tested. If you don't have a fuel pressure guage that hooks up to the fuel filter, I'd have the dealer test it out. If I knew where you lived, I'd help you as I actually own the Honda one. If it checks out fine, move on to:
3. I'd replace the fuel pump with a used unit from a junk yard. They should be fairly inexpensive used and usually last the life of the car (so I wouldn't deal with new). The above #1 instructions are the same to replace the fuel pump -just have to take off the quick connect fuel lines, the electrical connecter and the 10mm bolts holding the pump to the tank (should take 10 minutes or so, total). The OBDII quick connects from the fuel line to pump are INCREDIBLY easy to use and do actually seal, contrary to how simple they hook up. I haven't verified Honda part numbers, but I'm 99% sure all dx/lx/ex US models will utilize the exact same pump and connectors from 96-00.
That's my $.02. And don't forget my golden Honda rule. Try the simplest things first!
In all of my past experiences with Honda's (20+ years), it's almost always the simplest solution.
Since it seems to start and run once she gets fuel rail pressure up again, I have a few ideas to check. Start simple:
1. I'd first pull the small bolt that holds down he bottom of the rear seat cushion(10mm socket), pull the bottom out (by rotating the back of the bottom up first) and remove the cover to the fuel pump (if memory serves it's 5 bolts of the same size). Once that cover is off, be sure the ignition switch is off and disconnect the electrical connector on the fuel pump a few times. This should clean the contact points enough in case that was the issue. Since you don't have a location on your signature, I don't know if you have humidity where you live. Anyway, leave the cover off after doing that...and listen to the fuel pump after turning the ignition on. If it's making a whining sound (high pitched), then the pump could actually be bad. I've personally never heard a bad Honda pump, but GM's have a very distinctive high pitched almost squeal.
2. If the above doesn't yield any change or offer a solution, have your fuel pressure regulator tested. If you don't have a fuel pressure guage that hooks up to the fuel filter, I'd have the dealer test it out. If I knew where you lived, I'd help you as I actually own the Honda one. If it checks out fine, move on to:
3. I'd replace the fuel pump with a used unit from a junk yard. They should be fairly inexpensive used and usually last the life of the car (so I wouldn't deal with new). The above #1 instructions are the same to replace the fuel pump -just have to take off the quick connect fuel lines, the electrical connecter and the 10mm bolts holding the pump to the tank (should take 10 minutes or so, total). The OBDII quick connects from the fuel line to pump are INCREDIBLY easy to use and do actually seal, contrary to how simple they hook up. I haven't verified Honda part numbers, but I'm 99% sure all dx/lx/ex US models will utilize the exact same pump and connectors from 96-00.
That's my $.02. And don't forget my golden Honda rule. Try the simplest things first!
Last edited by ScottDR; Jan 30, 2009 at 10:24 PM.
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