Rep Power: 0

Hi all,

I'm hoping someone can help with advice, so here goes: I have a 1996 Civic EX Coupe, A/T, bought new in '96, with 134k on it and no mods other than a K&N air filter. I've been hearing a occasional rattle from underneath the hood for a couple of months now; I figured it was detonation, I started using mid-grade gas and figured I would ask the dealer when I brought it in for the emission recall work. Finally got it in last week, they tell me the noise is "piston slap." I know enough to know that that ain't good, so I asked how much time it had left. They couldn't say for sure.

So I took it back, was driving to the train station for work the next day and drove over a lot of rough pavement. That's when the noise got worse. It changed to a clatter that sounded like a diesel engine; lots louder and occurring more frequently that before. I thought maybe I had broken something on the rough pavement, so I took it back to the dealer. They still say piston slap, nothing to do but rebuild or replace.

Driving it home from the dealer, the noise changes...now there's a metallic squeal to go along with the clatter, then it starts losing power. I hit the flashers and head to the first parking lot I can. It dies as I pull into a space. Get it towed back to the dealer, where they tell me that's the engine's gone (no kidding). The service rep's first comment is "wow, I didn't expect it to go that fast." Thanks, big help there! So they quote me 5-6 grand to replace the engine. I saw no thanks, get a rental car and try to figure out my next step.

Sorry for the long story, but I thought background might be helpful for my questions:

1) It's not seized, as it will still turn over, although it makes a god-awful racket when I try. Did I throw a rod, do you think?

BTW, there's no oil underneath the car, although very little is left in the engine, either. I haven't noticed any oil spots anywhere, although it looks like some flowed back and down the trim below the front door. So I'm not sure whether the block is ventilated or not.

2) Does it sound like something that can be rebuilt, or should it be replaced?

3) What are fair prices for either option, and can anyone suggest a good shop in the NW burbs of Chicago to take it to?

For 5-6 grand, I'll put a down payment on another car; if I can get it done for under 2k (or 1500 even), it's worth fixing to me. Is that realistic?

Thanks for any help! If more info is needed, please let me know. I love that little car, and I don't want to scrap her (or incur a car payment!) if I can help it.

Thanks!
Jeff

 
Rep Power: 811

from what you describe, just get a new engine. ebay has really cheap ones and sometimes you get lucky at a junkyard. alot of places in chicago will do engine swaps. i dont know where you are exactly but have you heard of one6 motorsports, garage kwai, whip factory? to name a few. engine usually not more than $1k on ebay. and maybe $1k for labor. you might even look for a better engine like a B series idk.

 
Rep Power: 0

i think i can help u. my brother just recently wrecked his 96 civic ex a/t and we were just guna scrap it but we figured we would just sell the engine and trans. let me know im pretty sure it has around 120k.if u want il post pic asap..itl be cheap

 
Rep Power: 222

i ran through the same issue in my 2000 ex. sounds like a rod bearing failure to me and the rod is knocking against the walls. I was told it was a loose valve and it was bullshit. Replace the engine, its going to cost you more to fix it than it would replace it. Shops around here normally charge 350-500 to swap the engine out and another one provided no ecu changes etc are required. I'd look for a b series such as a B18B or a B20 you can get them in decent condition for 500-700. Besides many mechs won't even try to repair a thrown rod since cylinder wall damage has usually occurred and sending the block out to be machined and on a single cam ****-box it's not worth it. Swap the b series in man and do a manual swap since your in there.

 
Rep Power: 245

I concur that it's likely a rod bearing but probably not a thrown rod. Those usually poke a hole in the side of the block.

Forget eBay for engines unless there's one listed locally. Check your junkyards. A good salvage yard will warrantee the motor for 30 days provided it's installed by a certified mechanic. They may also recommend an installer or do it as well. Here's a web site you can use to search your local area.

http://www.car-part.com/

craigslist is also a good source for finding a motor.

Be wary about swapping in a B-series motor though as some of these kids are recommending. It will involve adding other parts and modifications like axles, mounts, the wiring harness, and the computer.

 
Rep Power: 222

not neccessarily. The 96 coupe fits a b series nicely because the integra crv and civic are the same chassis. You can use factory mounts to sit the b series, if you use an si tranny you can use stock axles and all you need is a computer from ebay or watever to run it you can re use your factory harness.

 
Rep Power: 0

i go with bearing. take the old motor through in a new one and call it a day. 1k (less depending on ppl u know) do it yourself or 2k and have a shop through one in but def. not a dealer they will rap u again and again