clutch problem
clutch problem 
Re: clutch problem
Don't get a new tranny or repair it. I've got the same problem on mine, and worse, and it runs. The tranny won't simply break one day. Personally I think it's a waste of money if that's your only problem. It's common.
But if you will change it, you should buy new OEM motor/tranny mounts. The rear engine mount should be injected with 3m windo weld. I theorize that the reason civic tranies end up having problems is due to the shitty engine mounts. Not enough support, and as the mounts age, the trany movies too much.
But if you will change it, you should buy new OEM motor/tranny mounts. The rear engine mount should be injected with 3m windo weld. I theorize that the reason civic tranies end up having problems is due to the shitty engine mounts. Not enough support, and as the mounts age, the trany movies too much.
Re: clutch problem
Bad advice Cleft.
If your tranny is making noise and you don't know what it is, have it fixed before something goes wrong. Yeah your tranny can suddenly stop working, a clutch finger could break, a clutch spring can fall out, your noisy bearing could fail, etc, all while you're trying to accelerate out of someone's way.
If your tranny is making noise and you don't know what it is, have it fixed before something goes wrong. Yeah your tranny can suddenly stop working, a clutch finger could break, a clutch spring can fall out, your noisy bearing could fail, etc, all while you're trying to accelerate out of someone's way.
Re: clutch problem
Bad advice Cleft.
If your tranny is making noise and you don't know what it is, have it fixed before something goes wrong. Yeah your tranny can suddenly stop working, a clutch finger could break, a clutch spring can fall out, your noisy bearing could fail, etc, all while you're trying to accelerate out of someone's way.
If your tranny is making noise and you don't know what it is, have it fixed before something goes wrong. Yeah your tranny can suddenly stop working, a clutch finger could break, a clutch spring can fall out, your noisy bearing could fail, etc, all while you're trying to accelerate out of someone's way.
Last edited by Cleft_Asunder; Aug 8, 2008 at 01:45 PM.
Re: clutch problem
I really doubt that will happen. The original poster lists a very common problem, and yet I've never read about civics having major transmission failures. You sound like you live in fear. I'm all for fixing stuff before it breaks, but transmissions are fairly robust. The reason I don't recommend getting a new one is that the noise will probably return after another 50/100k. You have to find out what's causing the transmission to become damaged. Driving habbits? I still think it has to do with the rear mount not being reinforced enough, and perhaps if you do reinforce it, you can prevent transmission damage.
Based on what the OP is vaguely describing it sounds like a either a bad throw-out or pilot bearing. Neither of which is part of the transmission. Either way it's not normal and should be fixed. Having a faulty drivetrain can be as dangerous as faulty brakes. It's not fear son, it's common sense.
I also have no idea what you're talking about regarding the rear mount. I don't recommend screwing around with it Inject it with what? God man, that's so ghetto! And that has something to do with his bearings? Inpect it. If it's busted then replace it. The only common mount problem with 6th gen Civics is the lower driver's side mount.
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Re: clutch problem
Son, you're confusing fear with experience. I am 47 years old and have experience working on cars since I was 12. I've been there and done that. For example, I've put 300,000 miles on a Honda over 18 years and have had problems with cars at the most inconvenient times that you could ever imagine. I've had a tranny break on the highway, engine stalls in heavy traffic, a clutch cable break in middle of Route 1, etc.
Based on what the OP is vaguely describing it sounds like a either a bad throw-out or pilot bearing. Neither of which is part of the transmission. Either way it's not normal and should be fixed. Having a faulty drivetrain can be as dangerous as faulty brakes. It's not fear son, it's common sense.
I also have no idea what you're talking about regarding the rear mount. I don't recommend screwing around with it Inject it with what? God man, that's so ghetto! And that has something to do with his bearings? Inpect it. If it's busted then replace it. The only common mount problem with 6th gen Civics is the lower driver's side mount.
Based on what the OP is vaguely describing it sounds like a either a bad throw-out or pilot bearing. Neither of which is part of the transmission. Either way it's not normal and should be fixed. Having a faulty drivetrain can be as dangerous as faulty brakes. It's not fear son, it's common sense.
I also have no idea what you're talking about regarding the rear mount. I don't recommend screwing around with it Inject it with what? God man, that's so ghetto! And that has something to do with his bearings? Inpect it. If it's busted then replace it. The only common mount problem with 6th gen Civics is the lower driver's side mount.
WOAH!!! UR 47!..thats cool haha
Re: clutch problem
Son, you're confusing fear with experience. I am 47 years old and have experience working on cars since I was 12. I've been there and done that. For example, I've put 300,000 miles on a Honda over 18 years and have had problems with cars at the most inconvenient times that you could ever imagine. I've had a tranny break on the highway, engine stalls in heavy traffic, a clutch cable break in middle of Route 1, etc.
Based on what the OP is vaguely describing it sounds like a either a bad throw-out or pilot bearing. Neither of which is part of the transmission. Either way it's not normal and should be fixed. Having a faulty drivetrain can be as dangerous as faulty brakes. It's not fear son, it's common sense.
I also have no idea what you're talking about regarding the rear mount. I don't recommend screwing around with it Inject it with what? God man, that's so ghetto! And that has something to do with his bearings? Inpect it. If it's busted then replace it. The only common mount problem with 6th gen Civics is the lower driver's side mount.
Based on what the OP is vaguely describing it sounds like a either a bad throw-out or pilot bearing. Neither of which is part of the transmission. Either way it's not normal and should be fixed. Having a faulty drivetrain can be as dangerous as faulty brakes. It's not fear son, it's common sense.
I also have no idea what you're talking about regarding the rear mount. I don't recommend screwing around with it Inject it with what? God man, that's so ghetto! And that has something to do with his bearings? Inpect it. If it's busted then replace it. The only common mount problem with 6th gen Civics is the lower driver's side mount.
Replacing the rear mount with a solid poly mount results in insane vibration in the cabin. Stock oem mounts are crappily designed because they could have easily designed it so that there is a lot of engine/tranny support while still retaining a quiet cabin. For example, first and second generation Saturn S series manual trany mounts are A+. They have less vibration than honda mounts, yet provide like 3x more engine support!
It's not ghetto. You would think so at first but it's not. There simply aren't any good alternate methods for reducing engine movement without increasing cabin vibration. Also, the transmission can be damaged due to excessive movement. For example, going down a bumby road in first gear in a Civic can be a nightmare on the tranny. 6th gen civic mounts (if not others) ARE a problem. Maybe not when the OEM mounts are new, but after ~75K.
I'll take your word for it about the tranny, but what you're suggesting is that honda manual trannies are fragile as hell.
Last edited by Cleft_Asunder; Aug 9, 2008 at 10:55 AM.
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Re: clutch problem
Son, you're confusing fear with experience. I am 47 years old and have experience working on cars since I was 12. I've been there and done that. For example, I've put 300,000 miles on a Honda over 18 years and have had problems with cars at the most inconvenient times that you could ever imagine. I've had a tranny break on the highway, engine stalls in heavy traffic, a clutch cable break in middle of Route 1, etc.
Based on what the OP is vaguely describing it sounds like a either a bad throw-out or pilot bearing. Neither of which is part of the transmission. Either way it's not normal and should be fixed. Having a faulty drivetrain can be as dangerous as faulty brakes. It's not fear son, it's common sense.
I also have no idea what you're talking about regarding the rear mount. I don't recommend screwing around with it Inject it with what? God man, that's so ghetto! And that has something to do with his bearings? Inpect it. If it's busted then replace it. The only common mount problem with 6th gen Civics is the lower driver's side mount.
Based on what the OP is vaguely describing it sounds like a either a bad throw-out or pilot bearing. Neither of which is part of the transmission. Either way it's not normal and should be fixed. Having a faulty drivetrain can be as dangerous as faulty brakes. It's not fear son, it's common sense.
I also have no idea what you're talking about regarding the rear mount. I don't recommend screwing around with it Inject it with what? God man, that's so ghetto! And that has something to do with his bearings? Inpect it. If it's busted then replace it. The only common mount problem with 6th gen Civics is the lower driver's side mount.
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Re: clutch problem
Civic ISBs are the most common thing to go in a Honda tranny. It would almost be worth asking Bone to come set up an account on this site wouldn't it Carl?
I've thought about poly-filling the mounts and every one who has done it says it's a temporary measure only to be used if you're tight on cash, because it simply doesn't last. Replace the rear mount, you'll be happier.
My guess is ISB as well, but as long as the tranny is off to replace the ISB, you might as well go ahead and replace the clutch, they almost always come with a new throwout bearing, get the flywheel re-surfaced and the machine shop can tell you if the pilot bearing needs to be replaced.
All of this can be done yourself if you're handy around cars and have a decent set of tools.
While I'm not quite as long in the tooth as Carl, my experience has also told me that if something makes a noise that it shouldn't, fix it as soon as possible before it encourages other parts to misbehave and makes noises they shouldn't as well, or worse.
I've thought about poly-filling the mounts and every one who has done it says it's a temporary measure only to be used if you're tight on cash, because it simply doesn't last. Replace the rear mount, you'll be happier.
My guess is ISB as well, but as long as the tranny is off to replace the ISB, you might as well go ahead and replace the clutch, they almost always come with a new throwout bearing, get the flywheel re-surfaced and the machine shop can tell you if the pilot bearing needs to be replaced.
All of this can be done yourself if you're handy around cars and have a decent set of tools.
While I'm not quite as long in the tooth as Carl, my experience has also told me that if something makes a noise that it shouldn't, fix it as soon as possible before it encourages other parts to misbehave and makes noises they shouldn't as well, or worse.
Re: clutch problem
Civic ISBs are the most common thing to go in a Honda tranny. It would almost be worth asking Bone to come set up an account on this site wouldn't it Carl?
I've thought about poly-filling the mounts and every one who has done it says it's a temporary measure only to be used if you're tight on cash, because it simply doesn't last. Replace the rear mount, you'll be happier.
My guess is ISB as well, but as long as the tranny is off to replace the ISB, you might as well go ahead and replace the clutch, they almost always come with a new throwout bearing, get the flywheel re-surfaced and the machine shop can tell you if the pilot bearing needs to be replaced.
All of this can be done yourself if you're handy around cars and have a decent set of tools.
While I'm not quite as long in the tooth as Carl, my experience has also told me that if something makes a noise that it shouldn't, fix it as soon as possible before it encourages other parts to misbehave and makes noises they shouldn't as well, or worse.
I've thought about poly-filling the mounts and every one who has done it says it's a temporary measure only to be used if you're tight on cash, because it simply doesn't last. Replace the rear mount, you'll be happier.
My guess is ISB as well, but as long as the tranny is off to replace the ISB, you might as well go ahead and replace the clutch, they almost always come with a new throwout bearing, get the flywheel re-surfaced and the machine shop can tell you if the pilot bearing needs to be replaced.
All of this can be done yourself if you're handy around cars and have a decent set of tools.
While I'm not quite as long in the tooth as Carl, my experience has also told me that if something makes a noise that it shouldn't, fix it as soon as possible before it encourages other parts to misbehave and makes noises they shouldn't as well, or worse.
Did your friend even do it right? It's supposed to be put in in layers of around 1/4th inch. If you fill it ally the way, it won't dry at all even if you leave it for months.
Also, is it possible to remove the trany without dropping the engine? how difficult is it? Do you need to raise the car on a hydraulic jack? I wan't to buy a new trany because I am having issues with this one, and I can't afford the ~1000 cost of labor + a new trany.
Last edited by Cleft_Asunder; Aug 9, 2008 at 04:03 PM.
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The poly will vibrate itself out.
Yes it is possible to remove the tranny w/o pulling the engine, especially on a 6th gen. I don't even bother supporting the engine with a jack anymore. You can leave the front motor mount attached to the block by the one bolt (on a 7th gen anyway), and then just remove the tranny side and rear mounts, and drop the tranny out the bottom of the car. Just make sure it's up high enough to drag it out from underneath. If your front mount can't stay attached like the 7th gen, just have jack under the oil pan to help support the motor.
Yes it is possible to remove the tranny w/o pulling the engine, especially on a 6th gen. I don't even bother supporting the engine with a jack anymore. You can leave the front motor mount attached to the block by the one bolt (on a 7th gen anyway), and then just remove the tranny side and rear mounts, and drop the tranny out the bottom of the car. Just make sure it's up high enough to drag it out from underneath. If your front mount can't stay attached like the 7th gen, just have jack under the oil pan to help support the motor.
Re: clutch problem
Dude, I can just see the number of people that injected their mounts completely. They thought they were dry, put them in there, and the thing busts. There are tutorials here and there telling you to inject them, but never mentioning that you must do it in 1/4th increments.
I can't be sure about anything, but I just can't see how it could fail, unless it slips out, which isn't a possibility if done right. I mean that stuff is strong.
I can't be sure about anything, but I just can't see how it could fail, unless it slips out, which isn't a possibility if done right. I mean that stuff is strong.
Re: clutch problem
The poly will vibrate itself out.
Yes it is possible to remove the tranny w/o pulling the engine, especially on a 6th gen. I don't even bother supporting the engine with a jack anymore. You can leave the front motor mount attached to the block by the one bolt (on a 7th gen anyway), and then just remove the tranny side and rear mounts, and drop the tranny out the bottom of the car. Just make sure it's up high enough to drag it out from underneath. If your front mount can't stay attached like the 7th gen, just have jack under the oil pan to help support the motor.
Yes it is possible to remove the tranny w/o pulling the engine, especially on a 6th gen. I don't even bother supporting the engine with a jack anymore. You can leave the front motor mount attached to the block by the one bolt (on a 7th gen anyway), and then just remove the tranny side and rear mounts, and drop the tranny out the bottom of the car. Just make sure it's up high enough to drag it out from underneath. If your front mount can't stay attached like the 7th gen, just have jack under the oil pan to help support the motor.
What would be my best bet on a new trany? A used one from say... a 99 or 2000 with lower miles, or a rebuilt one? What else do I need to consider? I imagine I neeed a gasket.
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To be quite honest, that's fine for them if it's done right. Most people won't take the time to do so. I guess it's the same as the ES poly inserts I'm running right now, just more permanent.
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Thanks, I just realized a week ago while looking at my mounts that it may not require the engine to be pulled. I mean the trany is like right there, supported only by 1 mount and mount frame.
What would be my best bet on a new trany? A used one from say... a 99 or 2000 with lower miles, or a rebuilt one? What else do I need to consider? I imagine I neeed a gasket.
What would be my best bet on a new trany? A used one from say... a 99 or 2000 with lower miles, or a rebuilt one? What else do I need to consider? I imagine I neeed a gasket.
The only thing I would buy are new axle spindle nuts and new axle seals to put on your 'new' tranny that you're getting if you get a used one. Rebuilt will always be better because it will have new seals, a new ISB, probably new needle bearing, etc.. whereas the used one won't.
Re: clutch problem
Well I did it right, so I will post back weather they last or not. I would be shocked if they corroded. I was thinking about maybe coating them regularly with something. Silicon?
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