Everything works but no crank
#1
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Everything works but no crank
Hey
Went to start this AM, but no crank.
bat tery is fine, no changes made
except I was fiddling with the omega aftermarket FOB
the omega unit has been removed apparently, before I bought the car so dunno what the FOB is talking to if that is the issue. may be coincedence......
I looked for the valet button but its not visible,
discon the bat and drained sys
the green key light comes on for one sec, and goes out with key insertion, and blinks 4 times and goes out on key removal
can this be a clutch switch issue?? there are 2, how do I by pass them
THANKS
Went to start this AM, but no crank.
bat tery is fine, no changes made
except I was fiddling with the omega aftermarket FOB
the omega unit has been removed apparently, before I bought the car so dunno what the FOB is talking to if that is the issue. may be coincedence......
I looked for the valet button but its not visible,
discon the bat and drained sys
the green key light comes on for one sec, and goes out with key insertion, and blinks 4 times and goes out on key removal
can this be a clutch switch issue?? there are 2, how do I by pass them
THANKS
#2
#3
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Re: Everything works but no crank
yes thats possible,
Is it a common fault? and why are there 2 clutch interlocks, and should I short both to closed position to start/run. or is only one for interlock and the other for some shifting oddball reason. never seen a fully depressed switch on a clutch before, but this is my first honda.
what is the battery voltage? did not even check, horn is loud as hell other sys good, car has been solid DD since I replaced alternator, assume plenty of bat volts, I know how it feels when marginal
do you hear any clicking while attempting to crank? nope, all normal with key turn to pos 1 and 2, except nuthin when turn to crank
check for power at the starter? Was looking for a fuse to that, did not see one, do not know where starter is, that would be a good next step once I eliminate the clutch interlock switches. I checked obvious stuff quick, and then pedaled to work an hour late
oil level low? uh no
engine seized?
Is it a common fault? and why are there 2 clutch interlocks, and should I short both to closed position to start/run. or is only one for interlock and the other for some shifting oddball reason. never seen a fully depressed switch on a clutch before, but this is my first honda.
what is the battery voltage? did not even check, horn is loud as hell other sys good, car has been solid DD since I replaced alternator, assume plenty of bat volts, I know how it feels when marginal
do you hear any clicking while attempting to crank? nope, all normal with key turn to pos 1 and 2, except nuthin when turn to crank
check for power at the starter? Was looking for a fuse to that, did not see one, do not know where starter is, that would be a good next step once I eliminate the clutch interlock switches. I checked obvious stuff quick, and then pedaled to work an hour late
oil level low? uh no
engine seized?
#4
Re: Everything works but no crank
start with the easy things,
common sense would be to check the battery voltage first, it is possible for a battery to be able to power accessories but not have enough power to turn the starter/engine,
if the battery tests fine, my next step would be to disconnect it and clean the battery posts and connectors with baking soda and water,
after that i would test for power at the starter motor,
start simple with the easy things, never assume anything
there is no need to re-wire an entire house and then find out a light was just unplugged
common sense would be to check the battery voltage first, it is possible for a battery to be able to power accessories but not have enough power to turn the starter/engine,
if the battery tests fine, my next step would be to disconnect it and clean the battery posts and connectors with baking soda and water,
after that i would test for power at the starter motor,
start simple with the easy things, never assume anything
there is no need to re-wire an entire house and then find out a light was just unplugged
#5
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Everything works but no crank
to re-wire an entire house and then find out a light was just unplugged
#7
#8
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Re: Everything works but no crank
OK
simple things, I like that.
this is either a security system problem
or the clutch switches are bad
I would like to jump the clutch interlock to see if thats the problem before I lay on my back trying to trace out and remove the remnants of a security system that was not a problem yesterday.
again, I fiddled with the fob, which may, or may not be progged to the car, and directly after that the car behaves like the clutch is not being depressed.
SO.
1
Can anyone confirm that my description of the green key dash symbol activity is correct for normal operation?
2
can anyone weigh in on why there are 2 switches on the clutch, and which of the is the starter interlock.
3
on the off chance someone else has an omega alarm, using a FOB with 4415 on it, how many modules did it come with, and if more than 1, where are they likely to be hidden?
Thanks!!
@ezone;
simple things, I like that.
this is either a security system problem
or the clutch switches are bad
I would like to jump the clutch interlock to see if thats the problem before I lay on my back trying to trace out and remove the remnants of a security system that was not a problem yesterday.
again, I fiddled with the fob, which may, or may not be progged to the car, and directly after that the car behaves like the clutch is not being depressed.
SO.
1
Can anyone confirm that my description of the green key dash symbol activity is correct for normal operation?
2
can anyone weigh in on why there are 2 switches on the clutch, and which of the is the starter interlock.
3
on the off chance someone else has an omega alarm, using a FOB with 4415 on it, how many modules did it come with, and if more than 1, where are they likely to be hidden?
Thanks!!
@ezone;
#9
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Everything works but no crank
1
Can anyone confirm that my description of the green key dash symbol activity is correct for normal operation?
Can anyone confirm that my description of the green key dash symbol activity is correct for normal operation?
Flashes several times after turning the key off, correct.
If it were flashing rapidly while attempting to start it, that would signal it has been activated. This should be described in your owners manual if yuou still have it.
The starter would still operate even if the immobilizer were activated.
2
can anyone weigh in on why there are 2 switches on the clutch, and which of the is the starter interlock.
can anyone weigh in on why there are 2 switches on the clutch, and which of the is the starter interlock.
Speaking of that, make sure all your floormats are pulled out from under the pedals. I've seen more than one car towed in for something that simple.
The lower clutch switch is used by the computers for a neutral input and maybe for cruise shutoff if equipped.
-----
Put a test light or voltmeter on the small wire of the starter, see if there's power going to it when the key is twisted.
#10
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Re: Everything works but no crank
On for 2 seconds after turning the ignition on, correct.
Flashes several times after turning the key off, correct.
If it were flashing rapidly while attempting to start it, that would signal it has been activated. This should be described in your owners manual if yuou still have it.
The starter would still operate even if the immobilizer were activated.
Thats interesting, it lets you crank, but kills fuel/spark ??
The upper switch is the starter interlock. You have to bury the pedal to the floor before it closes its contacts.
OkI can do this one thing in the dark, the rest will have to wait til tommorow, I get off early
Now, Ok this makes sense, the switch for the interlock is the one closed when the pedal is at the bottom of its stroke. the other breaks at the top of the stroke, and intereupts the cruise should you shift. makes sense
I'll jump that now and recheck
THANKS
Speaking of that, make sure all your floormats are pulled out from under the pedals. I've seen more than one car towed in for something that simple.
The lower clutch switch is used by the computers for a neutral input and maybe for cruise shutoff if equipped.
-----
Put a test light or voltmeter on the small wire of the starter, see if there's power going to it when the key is twisted.
Flashes several times after turning the key off, correct.
If it were flashing rapidly while attempting to start it, that would signal it has been activated. This should be described in your owners manual if yuou still have it.
The starter would still operate even if the immobilizer were activated.
Thats interesting, it lets you crank, but kills fuel/spark ??
The upper switch is the starter interlock. You have to bury the pedal to the floor before it closes its contacts.
OkI can do this one thing in the dark, the rest will have to wait til tommorow, I get off early
Now, Ok this makes sense, the switch for the interlock is the one closed when the pedal is at the bottom of its stroke. the other breaks at the top of the stroke, and intereupts the cruise should you shift. makes sense
I'll jump that now and recheck
THANKS
Speaking of that, make sure all your floormats are pulled out from under the pedals. I've seen more than one car towed in for something that simple.
The lower clutch switch is used by the computers for a neutral input and maybe for cruise shutoff if equipped.
-----
Put a test light or voltmeter on the small wire of the starter, see if there's power going to it when the key is twisted.
I do a search tommorow for starter replacement should the interlock get ruled out
Very glad the OEM immobilizer is ruled out, there may still be some portion of the Omega alarm that is activating a starter lockout, but withouts its main module in the car..............
Thanks ezone
#11
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Re: Everything works but no crank
Huh, well whaddya know, popped the harness on the interlock, jumped it with a piece of safety wire, and va, bu effing roooom.
looks like I park the bicycle tommorow morning
I will of course,do a thourough visual on the starter, for signal wire issues , and get on ebay for a OEM fob to go with the door lock actuators from rock
glad I did'nt pedal all the way to the groc store for baking soda...........
looks like I park the bicycle tommorow morning
I will of course,do a thourough visual on the starter, for signal wire issues , and get on ebay for a OEM fob to go with the door lock actuators from rock
glad I did'nt pedal all the way to the groc store for baking soda...........
#12
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Everything works but no crank
Thats interesting, it lets you crank, but kills fuel/spark ??
Huh, well whaddya know, popped the harness on the interlock, jumped it with a piece of safety wire, and va, bu effing roooom.
That's the usual problem on older cars, maybe it's starting to happen to 7th gens too.
#13
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Re: Everything works but no crank
I'll check, that makes more sense thAN sudden switch failure itself
mebbe I kicked it off while leaning over to get to the pass door lock
now I hear light grinding on the rear brakes pads had lottsa meat left, but I havent had the rear wheels off yet. time to check that and get ready to send Rock auto some more money
do those rear control arms crap out like the fronts?
mebbe I kicked it off while leaning over to get to the pass door lock
now I hear light grinding on the rear brakes pads had lottsa meat left, but I havent had the rear wheels off yet. time to check that and get ready to send Rock auto some more money
do those rear control arms crap out like the fronts?
#14
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Re: Everything works but no crank
Occams razor:
The principle states that
Among competing hypotheses that predict equally well, the one with the fewest assumptions should be selected. Other, more complicated solutions may ultimately prove to provide better predictions, but—in the absence of differences in predictive ability—the fewer assumptions that are made, the better.
baking soda on the terminals does not qualify as "predict equally well" given the symptoms stated
The principle states that
Among competing hypotheses that predict equally well, the one with the fewest assumptions should be selected. Other, more complicated solutions may ultimately prove to provide better predictions, but—in the absence of differences in predictive ability—the fewer assumptions that are made, the better.
baking soda on the terminals does not qualify as "predict equally well" given the symptoms stated
#15
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Everything works but no crank
I'll check, that makes more sense thAN sudden switch failure itself
mebbe I kicked it off while leaning over to get to the pass door lock
Note also there are probably 2 more of the same pads, so if one disintegrated you might consider replacing the whole set.
FYI other manufacturers have the same issue with the little rubber pads falling apart after several years.
Ford dealer wanted about $3 for one of theirs this morning.
Occams razor:
The principle states that
now I hear light grinding on the rear brakes pads had lottsa meat left
Wait, you posted in 7th generation (01-05), you should have rear drum brakes--- unless it's an Si.
Most of Hondas drum brakes last almost forever.
do those rear control arms crap out like the fronts?
#16
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Re: Everything works but no crank
Correct again
the shoes are worn thin a s ****,but smooth and no breakthru to metal and really, they come that way, very little meat new. drums fine, no grooves, I put fresh shoes from advance on, for 16, not worth the ship time from rock. the struts are shot, but **** it they can ride that way as I do my 3 mile commute. I'm smelling a bit of interior pull to get to the top of the rear strut........
the rest of the maze of bushings appear intact. gotta read up on setting toe on this car.......
mebbe it was rust.............................................. .
have not searched the area for the tip, once runnig I had other crap to knock out, and I have no intention of rearming the switch, as long as it might be part of the omega disarming feature
the shoes are worn thin a s ****,but smooth and no breakthru to metal and really, they come that way, very little meat new. drums fine, no grooves, I put fresh shoes from advance on, for 16, not worth the ship time from rock. the struts are shot, but **** it they can ride that way as I do my 3 mile commute. I'm smelling a bit of interior pull to get to the top of the rear strut........
the rest of the maze of bushings appear intact. gotta read up on setting toe on this car.......
mebbe it was rust.............................................. .
have not searched the area for the tip, once runnig I had other crap to knock out, and I have no intention of rearming the switch, as long as it might be part of the omega disarming feature
Last edited by meicalnissyen; 10-07-2015 at 09:08 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
PinkCupcakes
Electronics
4
07-18-2019 12:50 PM
Ezql
Archive - Wanted Parts (WTB's)
1
05-26-2015 11:46 PM
davidarenberg
I.C.E. (Audio) & Electrical Upgrades
4
05-16-2015 08:45 AM