Civicnoobie

After seeing so many %u2022%u2022%u2022%u2022%u2022%u2022 mrchanics one was finally able to figure out why when i spin my rear right wheel i get a ger ger moaning sqeaking sound. I get this for the most part all the time when driving but loudet when braking.

These pads are only 2.5 months old. On my previous set this noise started about a month before i changed them to hermal qieuts. Then right after i did the brake job they were silent for about a few weeks but the rubbing came back and has been on non stop ever since.

All the hardware in the drum works good and doesnt need replacement. But whats happening is theyre noticing a lot of brake dust on the shoe where its rubbing. Apparently my 2.5 month old brake shoe hasnt fully seated yet. It takes this long? How can i speed up the process and get the damn thing to seat? All the adjustments are perfect for the springs and shoe. Everything in the drum they tested and said its working perfect. Even lubed up the spring with a bit of high temp grease.

So i have a few options

1) get new brake shoe - maybe the one i have now is defective or get another brand than thermal qieuts. Maybe this particiular pad has fitting issues in our civics?

2) replace the drum (but dont think this is gonna work cause i had this rubbing issue on my old oem drum not long ago). Unless my brake show constantly rubbing caused the inside of the drum to wear out?


3) lube my wheel cylinder and bsckside of brake shoe

Do you generally need to resurface or replace the drums when putting in new rear shoes? Cause im wondering if the fact that i used my 10yr old OEM drums on my new pads 2.5 months ago is causing this. Maybe those old drums went bad, so when i put it on my new shoe, it caused the shoe to wear in shape of the bad drum....and when i got my new drum, the uneven shoe wear is already on the shoe so its is causing it to rub on the drum.

Right now im thinking replacing the shoe, AND drum for the right rear tire. Even though my drums now are only 1.5 months old.

Civicnoobie

Well guess what. Took my right rear wheel off today because its been completely quiet the past 2 days. Noticed my shoe was evenly worn now, before there was a high point but its gone now. My guess is the high point was what rubbing against the drum.

The i look closer and notice the shoe is starting to crack. Not cracked right through but i caught it in time. So my mech swapped it out with a new one and new springs and clips.

Will have to give it time obviously but whats the best way to make sure this pad gets seated properly?

Obviously the crack was from the heat. I just dont get what caused my shoe to wear unevenly and have a high point.

MelJ

Drums and shoes rarely go bad, especially on our FWD car since more than 60% of the braking is done in the front. You can adjust the shoes. You sure they just weren't out of adjustment?

Civicnoobie

The only thing i coukd think of is that the mech who adjusted them the first time did them way too tight cause i know he said he put them on max tightness. Not just the shoes but the ebrake too, he put them so tight.

Is there such thing as having set your rear pads too tight?

Ive had like 5 mechs look over my car in the past 2 weeks and none can figure out why my shoe was rubbing against the drum so harshly. So harsh it caused the shoe crack from the heat.

Every mech after that said my shoes are adjusted perfect and no alignment issues. During this time i was still getting the rubbing which i dont get.

Also checked out my drums today and its smooth inside, nothing wrong wth them.

Also earlier i checked my left tire and it has perfectly even wear on the inner and outter of the brake shoe. No high points what so ever.

So obviously i was getting the rubbing to the drum in the other one but still cant figure out what caused it. Good thing i replaced it today after finding out the shoe is cracked. I replaced the springs as well, after taking the old ones off noticed they were a bit sctretched over my new ones.

****in mechanics i tell ya. I dont know who to believe anymore. I had one tell me its my ebrake cable seized, i had another say its my drum overheating because of the paint. I had another say i have a bent front wheel hub but when i got a second opinion, they said its not bent at all. Its not the drums, they are in perfect shape, its not the ebrake cable its not corroded or rusted. unless it ironically is INSIDE the cable that we cant see.

Do civic drums have stabilizer bars in the drums?

Civicnoobie

Even though i had 2 mechs inspect my ebrake cable on the outside and say it looks good and not too much slack. Heres a site with a quote that gets me thinking, maybe it is my ebrake cable thats causing my rear right brake shoe to rub against the drum. Who knows maybe it is seized inside the cable and i cant see it just like the first mech said. My first mech gaurentees its the ebrake cable thats seized thats causing it. But the 3rd mech says the ebrake cable has nothing to do with it.

And ironically all this rubbing is happening on my rear right wheel and last Tues that wheel drum did lock up.

army12bc

either the e brake wasn't adjusted (constant on) or the shoe was out of adjustment (there is a port on the backside of the drum plate that you stick a shoe tool in to tighten/loosen). wheel cylinder might be stuck but that is rare

MindBomber

Just get a rear disk conversion lol

SpeedDownZone

I did not read the whole thing but I recently replaced a taurus drum and there is a opening in the back where you loosen them up our tighten them up maybe that's what you have to do who knows.

Civicnoobie

Well the sound is back, even though very quiet compared to 2 days ago. Even with new springs and shoes its still not ****in fixed. **** me off!!! I went to a small lot and i could hear it when driving slow and braking. Its just the matter of time before it gets worse again and starts rubbing. I jacked the back tires up again today and spun the tires. Theres still some drag when spinning, so my mech loosened the ebrake cables on both tires a bit more and very little drag now but still some. He said because that one mech who set my shoes way too tight, my drums are warped inside so its still causing it to drag a little. He pulled them off and inside where the pad touched, it was purply colour. He said its not suppose to leave purply marks inside and said its from excessive heat. He said to replace the drums.

The other mech should be paying for new drums, cant believe im having to pay for his mistakes.

Ya thats what he did today, loosened them up behind there to get rid of the dragging. I asked him if it could possibly take 2.5 months for new shoes to seat, he said no way. He said they would seat within first 100km most of the time. So the mech who told me last Fri that my old shoe wasnt seated yet is full of **** he says. Agree?

Civicnoobie

How do you guys usually test for brake drag?

I do it by 1) spinning the drum then 2) throwing the wheel on and spinning again. Ive got told different opinions but with just the drum on, when you spin it, how freely should the drum move? Some tell me it should be stiff with lots of resistance, some say it should move easily with not much arm force. And when you spin it, it should feel smooth all round with no highpoints or points where it causes it to slow down right?

And same when putting the wheel back on, when you spin it, how freely should the wheel move?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

mine turns with the wheel on almost like its loose, but i hear intermittant scraping as it turns. not dragging, just like a quick scrape each second.

Civicnoobie

So the looser it turns the better? And if you spin yours really slow, it should feel smooth with no points where it slows it right?

I could be wrong but i was told those are high points and that is what causes the wheel to drag.