I just put in a 90amp alternator
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Rep Power: 0 I just put in a 90amp alternator
Im running a 400W mono amp, a 200W 4 channel amp, 1 10" 300W sub and 4 speakers. Plus 55W Xenon HIDs and single din deck. Do you think upgrading from 70 to 90 amps will be less strain on the 90 amp alt than the stock 70amp one?
Last edited by Civicnoobie; 07-16-2011 at 08:45 PM.
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400w and 200w. But if needed i can ditch the 200w one and just connect the speakers to the deck.
So if my amps are 600W total and my sub is 300W, do i include the sub into the total power needed to my stereo?
I know my HIDs are 55W so im assuming thats what they take up - 55W.
So if my amps are 600W total and my sub is 300W, do i include the sub into the total power needed to my stereo?
I know my HIDs are 55W so im assuming thats what they take up - 55W.
Last edited by Civicnoobie; 07-16-2011 at 08:53 PM.
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Mine is 70amp and I'll have total 900 watts RMS in few weeks once everything is received/installed.
You should Look into Electric130's "big 3 upgrade" here on the forums-it upgrades your battery/engine grounds. If you have a stock battery I would look into getting a new one, mine lasted 3 months after getting my car audio operating. I got a Duralast Gold Top and it works great.
Where'd you get the 90amp alt from?
You should Look into Electric130's "big 3 upgrade" here on the forums-it upgrades your battery/engine grounds. If you have a stock battery I would look into getting a new one, mine lasted 3 months after getting my car audio operating. I got a Duralast Gold Top and it works great.
Where'd you get the 90amp alt from?
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Mine is 70amp and I'll have total 900 watts RMS in few weeks once everything is received/installed.
You should Look into Electric130's "big 3 upgrade" here on the forums-it upgrades your battery/engine grounds. If you have a stock battery I would look into getting a new one, mine lasted 3 months after getting my car audio operating. I got a Duralast Gold Top and it works great.
Where'd you get the 90amp alt from?
You should Look into Electric130's "big 3 upgrade" here on the forums-it upgrades your battery/engine grounds. If you have a stock battery I would look into getting a new one, mine lasted 3 months after getting my car audio operating. I got a Duralast Gold Top and it works great.
Where'd you get the 90amp alt from?
My buddy hooked me up with his shop who rebuilds starters and alts with better and upgrade components inside. The new one I got is a OEM stock one but rebuilt to new with better components inside.
I think i feel safer with my 90amp alt running my stuff than the stock 70 amp one. But just need to confirm 90amp is enough, if not ill have to ditch the 200W amp.
Also dont forget the AC uses a lot, more wattage than HIDs even. Not sure exactly how much.
I did upgrade my battery to a Interstate one, not sure the wattage exactly.
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https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...-detector.html
im using two amps one 500 RMS for two twelves and a 400 RMS for mids and highs i use a big3,duralast goldtop, and a capacitor. ive been using this setup for over three years with no problems.
im using two amps one 500 RMS for two twelves and a 400 RMS for mids and highs i use a big3,duralast goldtop, and a capacitor. ive been using this setup for over three years with no problems.
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No it will be enough to power your system. It will strain only if you blast it 24/7 with virtually every accessory on at the same time.
When it comes to calculating current draw you only factor in what the amplifier will take away from your battery. Which in your case is 600rms. You always want to match a sub RMS to an amp RMS. It ensures you are getting the most bang for your buck while keeping your equipment from frying/melting/blowing. When you start to get into the 1000watt total amp wattage is when you need to start thinking about an alternator/audio battery. You should check out my old post about my dual amp install I did for future reference.
When it comes to calculating current draw you only factor in what the amplifier will take away from your battery. Which in your case is 600rms. You always want to match a sub RMS to an amp RMS. It ensures you are getting the most bang for your buck while keeping your equipment from frying/melting/blowing. When you start to get into the 1000watt total amp wattage is when you need to start thinking about an alternator/audio battery. You should check out my old post about my dual amp install I did for future reference.
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No it will be enough to power your system. It will strain only if you blast it 24/7 with virtually every accessory on at the same time.
When it comes to calculating current draw you only factor in what the amplifier will take away from your battery. Which in your case is 600rms. You always want to match a sub RMS to an amp RMS. It ensures you are getting the most bang for your buck while keeping your equipment from frying/melting/blowing. When you start to get into the 1000watt total amp wattage is when you need to start thinking about an alternator/audio battery. You should check out my old post about my dual amp install I did for future reference.
When it comes to calculating current draw you only factor in what the amplifier will take away from your battery. Which in your case is 600rms. You always want to match a sub RMS to an amp RMS. It ensures you are getting the most bang for your buck while keeping your equipment from frying/melting/blowing. When you start to get into the 1000watt total amp wattage is when you need to start thinking about an alternator/audio battery. You should check out my old post about my dual amp install I did for future reference.
I have my amp at 400W and sub at 300W but I have my amp at 4ohm so im only technically getting 200W out of it. Thats all for the sub. So 200W from the sub amp and another 200W for the speakers, 400W total. Plus AC plus HIDs.
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https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...-detector.html
im using two amps one 500 RMS for two twelves and a 400 RMS for mids and highs i use a big3,duralast goldtop, and a capacitor. ive been using this setup for over three years with no problems.
im using two amps one 500 RMS for two twelves and a 400 RMS for mids and highs i use a big3,duralast goldtop, and a capacitor. ive been using this setup for over three years with no problems.
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While running AND charging it is 14.3 or 14.4. While running but not charging is 13.6 or 13.7 (thats my car though, it varies). While turned off it should be 12.4-12.7
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So according to that site, my 600W from both my amps draws 50 amps. That means on the stock alt. it would leave only 20 amps for the headlights, deck, and car running. YIKES!
With the new 90amp alt. It leaves 40 amps (double). I feel much more comfortable with that.
With the new 90amp alt. It leaves 40 amps (double). I feel much more comfortable with that.
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I can't vouch for what formula that site uses but usually stock alts give you 20-35% of unused amperes for additional stuff.
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I did the calculation on my 55 Watt Xenon HIDs. Apparently it only uses 12 volts (they took it from the battery voltage), but 55 x 2 = 110. If this is true, then its only using 9 amps total. Sounds bit low to me.
Now the AC compressor id be very curious about. I know this thing uses a lot.
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Rep Power: 328 Re: I just put in a 90amp alternator
W/V=A
or... W = A x V
W = 70A x 13V
W = 910
so u have 910 watts available.
where 70A is the output, 13V is avg voltage under load (around 13-14V)
although ur set up's max is around there, you never FULL bast ur system anyways. usually people crank it 1/2 up and its loud as hell already.
you shoudl be fine
or... W = A x V
W = 70A x 13V
W = 910
so u have 910 watts available.
where 70A is the output, 13V is avg voltage under load (around 13-14V)
although ur set up's max is around there, you never FULL bast ur system anyways. usually people crank it 1/2 up and its loud as hell already.
you shoudl be fine
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