D17A1 engine still runs hot after new head gasket
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Got a '02 Honda Civic LX sedan with a D17A1 engine on 5/14/18. The car is in LIKE-NEW condition, but with a 6/23 odometer reading of 184,843 miles.
The car ran great for a while, then the engine started overheating. I then noticed an overfilled coolant reservoir with a small stream of bubbles in the coolant. I assumed this was caused by exhaust gas leakage through a blown head gasket (like my last Civic, a '99). I replaced the head gasket with an aftermarket (MLS) part from Evergreen Parts on Amazon.com (NEVER AGAIN!). I inspected the head surface for excess warpage. A 0.002" feeler gauge was a go in some places, a 0.003" gauge was a no-go. I thought this was within the 0.002" service limit. I put the engine all back together with a new timing belt, tensioner, valve stem seals, (OEM) thermostat & synthetic oil. The engine ran great for a while but now the exact same symptoms are back. The engine is overheating with bubbles in the radiator neck. The electric fans work as they should. There is no white smoke from the exhaust. There is no evidence of coolant in the oil. I tested for exhaust gas in the radiator filler neck (on Sun 6/24) and it was POSITIVE. I think this means I can stop testing. Clearly, there is a leak, my only remaining question is WHERE? (e.g. head warpage, head crack, block crack). I've ordered an OEM gasket set and I plan to have a machine shop shave the head after I pull it AGAIN. Do y'all think I on the right track? Any advice for me?
The car ran great for a while, then the engine started overheating. I then noticed an overfilled coolant reservoir with a small stream of bubbles in the coolant. I assumed this was caused by exhaust gas leakage through a blown head gasket (like my last Civic, a '99). I replaced the head gasket with an aftermarket (MLS) part from Evergreen Parts on Amazon.com (NEVER AGAIN!). I inspected the head surface for excess warpage. A 0.002" feeler gauge was a go in some places, a 0.003" gauge was a no-go. I thought this was within the 0.002" service limit. I put the engine all back together with a new timing belt, tensioner, valve stem seals, (OEM) thermostat & synthetic oil. The engine ran great for a while but now the exact same symptoms are back. The engine is overheating with bubbles in the radiator neck. The electric fans work as they should. There is no white smoke from the exhaust. There is no evidence of coolant in the oil. I tested for exhaust gas in the radiator filler neck (on Sun 6/24) and it was POSITIVE. I think this means I can stop testing. Clearly, there is a leak, my only remaining question is WHERE? (e.g. head warpage, head crack, block crack). I've ordered an OEM gasket set and I plan to have a machine shop shave the head after I pull it AGAIN. Do y'all think I on the right track? Any advice for me?
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Rep Power: 192 Re: D17A1 engine still runs hot after new head gasket
that's why everyone one here recommends using a honda gasket.
did you make sure to bleed the coolant properly?
did you make sure to bleed the coolant properly?
#3
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Re: D17A1 engine still runs hot after new head gasket
Adhere to the service manual: follow torque spec, bolt sequencing, etc..
Get the block's head bolt hole threads as clean as possible and make sure they are absolutely dry before inserting the head bolts. Spray the bolt hole threads with brake cleaner and blow them dry with compressed air.
use a light coat of oil on bolt hole threads prior to insertion. Bleed coolant per service manual afterwards. After repair drain oil, leave the drain bolt, pour in a quart of oil and let drain out immediately...this will help remove coolant that is most likely sitting at the bottom of the oil pan due to overheat. Replace oil filter, reinstall drain bolt and after a day or two of driving do another oil and filter change. Buy the cheapest oil and filters for the first change.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 06-27-2018 at 05:35 AM.
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#5
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Re: D17A1 engine still runs hot after new head gasket
A 0.002" feeler gauge was a go in some places,
an aftermarket (MLS) part from Evergreen Parts on Amazon.com (NEVER AGAIN!).
tensioner,
and it was POSITIVE. I think this means I can stop testing.
plan to have a machine shop shave the head
If you prepped surfaces with a whizzwheel or similar (die grinder and scotchbrite pads) to clean it up, you could have caused surface damage as well.
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