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ok first time user i just curious to the bolts that hold up your oil pan ,& what size they are. I have a 2001 honda civic dx, when i removed my pan one nut was stripped , using my pan to apply pressure down it came out along with the entire stud so if theres someone that faced same problem feel free to clue me in on what you did. Im open to hear from anyone how to fix this issue quick and efficiently. Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 519

Original thread was 6mm x 1.0

Bolt length was 18mm, though most can use slightly longer if necessary (20mm).

Studs (4) were 28mm long.


If a stud pulled out, you may need some thread repairs done (thread repair insert such as heli-coil)

 
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so if i just try to reinstall with avg bolt to those dimmensions i may still have potential 4 a small oil leak? i planned on butting a dab or rtv on it before tightening in , help prevent that? and also i only pulled off 5 washers from fitted studs am i spose to have one for each bolt or just the studs or does there have to be a single washer over every one of 18 places being used to hold up the oil pan?

 
Rep Power: 519

If a bolt bottoms out before it clamps the oil pan, yes.
If threads are stripped so a bolt (or stud) can't be properly tightened, yes.

If you do the work using common mechanical sense, no.


RTV may be required, but only in specific locations. Refer to your service manual for instructions.


Look at your old gasket: Did it have 18 washers molded in, or only a few?

Compare old OEM gasket to your new OEM gasket.

 
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maybe that just went way over my head i guess id like to get filled in more, i did go buy a 6x16& 6x20 and well see which one fits the best. And yes rtv is required due to the pan i have , and i only asked cuz when i bought this car previous owner striped drain plug & replaced it with a heli-coil , so i went out bought a whole new pan and i rushed the first time thru didnt let dry that kind of thing and ive been cleaning surfaces, studs , and bolts like crazy and happened to notice this time around i only had five washers and wanted to see if thats normal

 
Rep Power: 519

You have a steel oil pan with a gasket.
RTV is only used in the corners of the humps and where there are parting lines for the pump and rear housing.
NOT all the way around it.


If you actually have a shop manual that tells you to do that, you're either reading about the wrong engine or the manual is wrong.

They sure can stick to the studs when you yank the gasket away. They don't normally stick anywhere else, just to the studs. Remove the washers. Get a new gasket.

Don't use RTV all over it this time.

 
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thank you for your patience and your knowledge i mean i bought this with 203k and the owner prior did not leave any manual in glove box & finding that kind of info can take forever to come actoss i thank you again

 
Rep Power: 519

Owners manual?
Google search 'just give me the damn manual'

Service manual.....check this thread---last page has newest links--but be careful, many you find are the rest of the world, not for NA market, so you have to be real careful about what car/engine you are looking at

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/182-7th-generation-civic/235295-looking-7th-gen-manual-free-updated-13.html

 
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damn i appreciate u diggin that link up for me though them two thousand plus pages is to much for my cell and takes to long to load up, so one last thing right off the manifold where your exhaust starts my two spring botls so rusty they snapped any idea on how ro fix that

 
Rep Power: 519

Laptop?

I can't see what you are working with. There are many ways to deal with broken fasteners....google for ideas?
Drill it out and retap?? Where are the threads in the manifold....a welded nut? Twist it free or cut the weld?

It's gotta have the springs and the tapered gasket because that pipe connection has to be able to flex.