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Public library? Many have access to online professional resources like Alldata and Mitchell.

 
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Okay, I got the Torque Wrench and I'm about to start, but I have a question about the first video I posted. I was going to follow it since Scooty's DIY although written up well, needs more pictures for mechanically declined people like myself. Anyways, After rewatching the first video, I noticed that the guy in the video is dropping his subframe. I want to avoid this because I don't wanna get alignment. So is there a video that anyone knows about, because I've been looking, where the transmission comes out the top?

 
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I've done a clutch without removing the subframe and without completely removing the trans, but it's almost more work to fight around it IMO
I've never taken a trans out the top but I've read here that it can be done.


Dropping the subframe doesn't automatically mean you will need an alignment....

Disassemble knuckles/lower control arms at the lower ball joints only.
This attachment point will not affect alignment.
You can pull the knuckle outward to get the axle stub out of the hub, that's not a problem.
(Unbolting the knuckle from the strut will screw up the alignment.)



The subframe brackets nearest the axles will be the alignment guides for reassembly. Remove only the single bolt from between the two halves, then make sure these bolts are in their holes/slots and aligned when reassembling before final tightening any other subframe hardware.
(I run all the big bolts in to about 2 turns short of getting tight, so the frame is still loose enough to move if needed to get the small bolts in the right places.)

 
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So, I got to #7 on scootys DIY, and I need to know if I'm looking at the transmission brace and the flywheel cover?

 
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go check the other thread, try to avoid double posting

 
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got it, and thanks for the info in the other thread .

 
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The problem bearing is right below the snap ring bearing. Spinning the bearing from side to side produces a noise as if the ***** inside the bearing were hitting each other. I'm starting to think this is where my noise is from.

 
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Can you undo the nut at the top and slide it off?

 
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Yes. The nut appears to be similar to that of an axle nut, it's even staked. I already ordered a new bearing to replace the one I'm pointing at in the picture. I need to know where all the torque specs for all the bolts inside the transmission, including the inside and outside case.

 
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I'm about to glue the transmission back together, but I need to know where/what neutral looks like with the shift forks. Also, factory service manual suggests putting "lubrication" on contact points on the shift forks. What lubrication should I use?

 
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it should just sit in neutral, dip your finger in the honda manual fluid and rub it on the contact points? or do they want some kind of grease?

 
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Neutral ..all hub/sliders in the middle none engaged to any gear.


I lube with the same fluid it will live in. MTF

 
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Got a problem, maybe... Spent the last two days pressing out the old ball joints, then pressing in the new ball joints, all went well. However, when I went to hondabond the tranny back together, I noticed surface rust over everything; bearings and differential. I immidately grabbed a quart of honda manual transmission fluid and dowsed every thing I could inside the transmission. After rubbing the surface of most of the gears and bearing, I managed to get 90% of the rust. The part with the most rust I'm replacing, the bearing with the clip ring, should be here tomorrow. Should I be worried? Is there anything else I can do? Am I F'ed?

 
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Keep the trans parts wet with oil so they dont rust.

IDK how much corrosion you have but it's probably not much?