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I was wondering if these actually add horsepower or torque, or anything beneficial, because mighty car mods proved cold air intakes don't do anything, but I was wondering about these.

Thanks!

 
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You have a 7th gen? The results are highly arguable. SRI works on the same concept as a CAI but:
a.) It uses warmer air from the engine bay, potentially increasing mpg but decrease performance.
b.) It isn't nearly as susceptible to hydrolock since it's so high. I have gotten a little water on mine from splashing in puddles, though.
c.) It makes a cool noise when you stomp on the pedal. If that's your thing.

I personally feel like my SRI added power (3 hp would be really optimistic) but that could be me trying to justify my purchase.

 
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all it will add is noise, if you dont want the added noise you would be better off going with a K+N filter that fits into the stock filter housing/air box




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The D17 has speed-density FI, which means the car figures out how much fuel needs to be injected by taking manifold pressure, air temp, coolant temp and rpm, then referring to a map. It doesn't directly measure how much air is going in, only checking if it did the right thing with the upstream O2/LAF sensor.

This is lower-cost typically than a MAF-equipped system, but since it refers to a fixed map based on what air *should* be going in, adding more won't get you more performance (though IME it will get you more mpg through less intake resistance, I'm guessing). This is why the D17 is more difficult to get power out of than the Ks, and why it doesn't respond to bolt-ons like SRIs and CAIs as well, unless a mod that modifies what the sensors are reading is also installed (how it's done on sportbikes).

 
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My guess as to why the CAIs seem to give more noticeable results (based heavily on the quality and design of the intake, as always), is that the longer you make a tube of a certain diameter, the more resistance to flow it has overall. An SRI will be more or less a consistent diameter over a shorter length, meaning more flow if designed competently, while a CAI will be longer with the same diameter. Anyone who's ridden a motorcycle with the airbox off but all sensors still connected will agree -- sure it revs a touch faster, but once loaded, falls on its face -- the engine is designed around the flow and resonance the airbox provides.

If you need proof of the length=flow resistance rule, drink through some 1/4" ID clear tubing 10" long, then 20" long. Your diaphragm is the piston, and ambient air pressure finds it harder to force strawberry Quik into your gob, the longer you make the tubing.

So if the D17 is expecting a certain amount of air to mix fuel with, the CAI provides closer to stock flow for most situations than the SRI, plus a bit more than stock at higher rpm, boosting midrange torque at some spots and improving driveability. Add to that the source intake air temp on a CAI is lower and denser (typically) than a SRI's will also add a touch of power... but not as much as on an MAF engine, which adapts to what is actually going in.

 
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Ok thanks guys. What should I add to increase performance then? Whether it be handling or hp? For sound I'll just get a louder exhaust.

 
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There are gains to be had from CAIs and SRIs... just don't expect the same results as with MAF FI systems (Ks)... not poo-pooing mods on the D17, just setting expectations realistically.

Thing about increasing flow to get power... is the engine can only increase total flow if both intake and exhaust flow is increased -- meaning carefully-chosen intake mods need carefully-chosen exhaust mods for best results... which usually means a piggyback or standalone fuel management solution, too. A lot of owners think they'll get noticeable power if they just get an SRI... which is typical of those who don't understand how engines work best.

I like the suspension aftermarket for Hondas, even though the 7th-gens don't have the trick wishbone fronts like gens previous. You'll have a lot more fun (and save some gas too) by upgrading legs and brakes, then adding in power -- it's a lot more fun in a chassis that can handle it.

 
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i knew before hand that a aem short ram wouldn't do a dam thing for hp i got it because it has a lifetime filter and is extremely easy to clean and replace compared to stock and it looks kool and gets all the bitches. bitches love short rams.

 
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And Strawberry Quick.

Through a crazy straw.

 
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That's why I have a sportbike -- if you think having them ride shotgun is fun... try squished against your back doing 0-60 in 4.5 secs (3.0 secs with my old YZF1000R).

I'd rather actually go fast in my car, without the LEO attention (stock pipes on my bike, a turbo on a car). That's from 25 yrs of getting tickets, and trust me, much more fun, not to mention a better closer when you pass all the loud cars/bikes on a set of twisties.

 
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Quick rule of thumb:

-- for equal length of tubing, when radius is halved, resistance increases 16-fold.

-- when length is doubled for equal radius, resistance doubles. This is for arrow-straight, smooth-bore tubes; bends have their own contributors to flow resistance...

And re: Quik and crazy straws and b*****s: depends on how hard the candidate sucks!

 
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I installed a k&n high air flow into my civic 2005 on a d14a1 and Im having a problem with engine it keeps shaking and I lose power sometimes by 80% while driving I tested on the computer its saying. ( intake-manifold pressure power input too high)

Can anyone help me with that..
By the way the sound of that air filter makes u feel that ur driving a Ferrari

 
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did you reset the ecu and perform idle re-learn ???

 
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No how to reset??? ... ad dose this problem let the engine start shaking and losing 80% of power?

Thanks for replying