Rep Power: 185

For all the more a tensioner or water pumps costs, just replace them all...I would rather spend the extra money in replacing all the parts (even if the old parts are still in good shape) so that I would not have to do the same tear down job a few months down the road

 
Rep Power: 367

yup...
ask xriceboyx about... 2 weeks...
I hated doing the suspension twice in 2 weeks for the upper mounts... and that's a easy job second time, since the bolts were cracked open once.

 
Rep Power: 314

Pfft.. when I go in there I change everything, every time... I've heard stories of pple changing their timing belts and the water pump going bad 10k miles later.. man would I be pissed. it's ultimately up to you how far you want to take it though, so use your disgression. At least remove the water pump from the car to inspect it, and put a new seal on it.

 
Rep Power: 210

yes i agree with you 100%....and i am going to replace the belt and tensioner and water pump WHEN i do the job....that is not my question though....my question is how long can i wait?....it is still very cold where i live and i dont have heated facilities to perform the job....

 
Rep Power: 210

i am going to replace everything....please refer to my previous post....

 
Rep Power: 367

please refer to mine too
You have only ran 60k since last change.the other parts probably will live long enough until you get 100k on current.

 
Rep Power: 210

thank you

 
Rep Power: 208

A 1000 ft lbs of torque! You are out of your mind. I don't use close to that much on torque on anything I can think of on the 170000 lb C17 Aircraft that I maintain for a living! Why would a simple car engine use that much.I have changed many timing belts with a impact wrench and never had any problems. Do you really use 1000 ft/lbs of torque when you install it? C'mon man, give me a break.

 
Rep Power: 314

If you refer to my third post in this very thread I already gave you my suggestion

 
Rep Power: 210

that would mean the car would have about 150,000 miles on it when im due for my second belt replacement....do you think the tensioner and water pump will be good till then?....considering they have never been changed?....i am more concerned about tensioner failure at this point rather than the belt snapping....

 
Rep Power: 314

Honestly, knowing that the tensioner wasnt changed last time I'd probably pull everything at 240k (kms). The tensioner ---usually--- emits a high pitch noise if something is wrong, and seldom completly fails.

 
Rep Power: 185

If I read everything correctly, Your car has around 200k miles and the water pump is original?

I would change everything when the weather gets warmer, wherever you are located...That is a lot of miles on a water pump IMO...

 
Rep Power: 190

Whoa whoa man, its not that its put on wih this amount of torque, its not, trust me. But its the counter-rotation of the pulley against the nut that tightens it, and tightens it more and more over time. When I tried to get mine off, I basically stood on the rachet extension and jumped a couple of times before it cracked...loudly and scared the crap out of me LOL.

In short its a total b1tch, THAT we can all agree on!!

 
Rep Power: 210

no....it has 200,000 kilometers....so about 120,000 miles

 
Rep Power: 210

if the crank pulley is also a harmonic balancer then yes they can go bad....over time the weighted portion of the pulley can start to seperate from the pulley and come loose....i have seen it happen before and if it does happen it will cause VERY SERIOUS damage to your crankshaft and crankshaft bearings....

 
Rep Power: 208

^ I do agree with that. If it's part of the pulley.

 
Rep Power: 208

All I am saying is that Impact wrenches work and that you don't need a special tool unless you are using a breaker bar (you should not use a ratchet to break torque).

I don't believe that spinning of the engine increases the torque of the nut. The pulley has teeth in it for just that reason. If anything corrosion can make it seize.

 
Rep Power: 185

same...I have a cheater bar that is about 3 feet long and was standing/pressing down on it...thought I was going to snap something
I would also say that it is tighter because of weathering/rust/corrosion...

Oh...that is only a difference of 80,000 miles..haha...I still would plan to do the whole job sooner rather than later, in early summer (to be on the safer side of being stranded)

 
Rep Power: 314

I'm about 85% sure the crank pulley is the harmonic balancer... but.. I could be wrong

 
Rep Power: 190

tbohar, you are correct. A crank pulley and a harmonic balancer are the same thing in our cars.

Mad dog, teeth on the pulley are in the inner race of the pulley, to key to the crank shaft. And you need the tool so your engine doesnt rotate clockwise and bust valves cause its an interference fit engine.

And guys, its the counter, tightening rotation of the pulley and nut that makes it tight. I pulled it off and re-installed it already, see my DIY contribution...or just google it, LOL. Corrosion wont adhere a nut on THAT tight...maybe in extreme cases, yeah...but not this one.

 
Rep Power: 208

^ Yes the teeth are on the crank. If the pulley was held on by friction from the nut then it would tighten but it's not it's just there to make sure it doesn't slide off the teeth. The key is there to make sure the ignition marks align properly. The impact gun breaks the torque fast enough that it won't rotate the engine, which wouldn't matter anyway because your timing belt and pulley would still be attached and held in alignment by the teeth of the T.B. pulley. Every time I've removed a pulley it has taken the same amount of effort as did installing it.

Check out how the manual only says not to install the bolt with impact wrench. Nothing about removing it...

I am basically done discussing this. I have never had any problems with using an impact wrench, I find that it makes it extremely easy, even when I have had access to the special tool.
I was simply trying to tell everyone that they don't need special tools for every job. If you follow the factory service manual then you will spend a lot of money on special tools and you will waste your time.

 
Rep Power: 314

In other words you still need to tool to properly reinstall the bolt? Timing belt is installed before the crank pulley (just info for those that havent done it before) and rides a seperate pulley called the Timing Belt Pulley or something like that.

 
Rep Power: 208

The engine has enough compression to stop it from turning upon installation.

 
Rep Power: 353

i need 2000lbs of tq cuz i have vtec and a lot of rice.

 
Rep Power: 210

i wouldnt count on the compression to stop the crank from turning....also when you are tightening the bolt you are basically trying to rotate the crank in the opposite direction of its normal travel which is never a good idea....

 
Rep Power: 185

I was able to torque the crank bolt down just using the engine compression...It didn't rotate for me

 
Rep Power: 314

Alright I didn't know that you could use the engine compression... I'll have to remember that next time. I still wedged the tool in there when I put everything back together

 
Rep Power: 208

^ lol

 
Rep Power: 210

thanks for all the help and advice....i have decided i am going to give this a shot myself when the time comes....i have done many timing belts before so i guess this one should be pretty easy once that pulley is off....

i think im going to take it to a shop around the corner from me and get them to loosen the nut and tighten it up just enough to get me back home so i can remove it easier....does anybody know any good websites in canada to order the parts from?....i need all 3 belts, tensioner, and water pump....

 
Rep Power: 185

Driving to a shop and having them crack the pulley bolt sounds like a hassle to me. If I were you and didn't have the the special tool or air tools, I would just buy the special tool. You will probably end up having to pay the shop to loosen the bolt for you. (you can find the tool for just under 30 bucks shipped on the internet)