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Saw this on the other forum and I think its really helpful:

Items needed:
Your keys.
A paperclip, or, a piece of wire that is stripped at both ends.

Shown in the photo below is the DLC (data link connector, aka OBDII connector) which is located under the driver's side of the dashboard, to the right of the gas pedal.

- Using the paperclip or wire, jump terminals #5 and #9 together.
- Turn the ignition to the ON (II) position.
- If you have an active ABS code, the ABS light will begin to blink. The blinking frequency of the ABS light will indicate which code has been stored.
Long blinks equal 10 and short blinks equal 1. An example of this would be three long blinks followed by one short blink. That would indicate ABS code 31.

RF = Right Front
LF = Left Front
RR = Right Rear
LR = Left Rear

Codes:

11 = RF wheel sensor. (open/short to body ground/short to power)
12 = Faulty RF wheel sensor pulse signal.
13 = LF wheel sensor. (open/short to body ground/short to power)
14 = Faulty LF wheel sensor pulse signal.
15 = RR wheel sensor. (open/short to body ground/short to power)
16 = Faulty RR wheel sensor pulse signal.
17 = LR wheel sensor. (open/short to body ground/short to power)
18 = Faulty LR wheel sensor pulse signal.
21 = Continuous operation. (chipped pulsar)
31 = Solenoid
32 = Solenoid
33 = Solenoid
34 = Solenoid
35 = Solenoid
36 = Solenoid
37 = Solenoid
38 = Solenoid
51 = Motor lock.
52 = Motor stuck off.
53 = Motor stuck on.
54 = Main relay stuck off.
61 = Ignition voltage.
81 = CPU (Central Processing Unit)

 
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Well, I thought it was helpful anyway...

 
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Thanks for info. Used it to diagnose a bad wheel sensor.

 
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this guy is banned, does this work? will it work on my obd11 seventh gen?

 
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Can you help me find the diagnostic socket on my '98 aerodeck please? I've had SRS and ABS lights on for a few weeks, and have just had to change the battery due to a strange internal fault. I'm wondering if the battery problems could have triggered the lights. I've been able to reset SRS and extinguish the light by following the routine given in the forum, involving timed shorting and unshorting the yellow two pin plug, so there were no actual SRS problems. Now I'd like to pursue the ABS issue by follwing the routine of shorting pins 4 (or is it 5) and 9 of the diagnostic socket to retrieve codes, BUT WHERE IS IT ? I've already checked the wheel sensors as best I can. They are neither open circuit nor dead short, so hopefully OK.

 
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This is posted in the 7th gen section, plus heres the original information im assuming , http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11475 , so im assuming it would work for 7th gen