Ask Me About DIY Stuff V2!
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It's actually for my friends car. I keep hearing that but i also keep hearing where you still have to swap pins and wiring. Is there one where you simply plug and play? Is the 01-02 lx, ex that one? And where can we find one of those? Junkyard the best option? Thanks for your help...
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okay so my mom called the honda dealer while i was in class, and she said its $42 to get the 01 accord trunk opener (this is the DIY trunk latch one that i recently asked about) and he said that the trunk opener only works with the OEM keyless entry.....think hes bullshitting me? i have Avital Keyless Entry system.
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okay so my mom called the honda dealer while i was in class, and she said its $42 to get the 01 accord trunk opener (this is the DIY trunk latch one that i recently asked about) and he said that the trunk opener only works with the OEM keyless entry.....think hes bullshitting me? i have Avital Keyless Entry system.
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yeah i figured that he meant it only works for the accord EX keyless entry, didnt know if he was talking about my vic or the accord.
going to buy it this weekend and do this DIY
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honda is just required to say certain things, thats how it is. like how coupe lip kit doesnt fit the sedan even tho it does, and how 04-05 front lip wont fit with fogs while with a small amount of trimming it fits fine. they say the standard answers they learn, not what actually works. i can say 100% the trunk popper works with ANY aftermarket alarm so long as you have an extra unused channel. almost every alarm has at least one if not two extra channels.
for the gauge cluster, the 01-02 lx/ex is a no brainer swap. unplug the old dx/vp cluster and plug in the new one. no rewiring of any kind, in fact your dx/vp already has the rpm wire in the harness, its just not used on the dx/vp clusters with no tach. they are all over ebay for well under $100. now if you want the new 03-05 lx/ex LED style clusters, those require repinning the connectors.
for the gauge cluster, the 01-02 lx/ex is a no brainer swap. unplug the old dx/vp cluster and plug in the new one. no rewiring of any kind, in fact your dx/vp already has the rpm wire in the harness, its just not used on the dx/vp clusters with no tach. they are all over ebay for well under $100. now if you want the new 03-05 lx/ex LED style clusters, those require repinning the connectors.
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[QUOTE=gearbox;4411645]...i can say 100% the trunk popper works with ANY aftermarket alarm so long as you have an extra unused channel. almost every alarm has at least one if not two extra channels....QUOTE]
thanks, yeah i figured he was required to say that.
i dont know if mine has extra channels but on my remote it has an asterisk button for like any extra things, and then a trunk-pop release button.
does this mean it still has 2 open channels?
thanks, yeah i figured he was required to say that.
i dont know if mine has extra channels but on my remote it has an asterisk button for like any extra things, and then a trunk-pop release button.
does this mean it still has 2 open channels?
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Most likely. Avital is made by directed electronics and is very similar to the clifford alarm I have. If you don't have a manual for it, I would recommend downloading one asap, can be found thru their website. I have on my keychain, a lock/unlock button, an * button, an ** button, and a trunk pop button. Once you read the manual, it says other the the preprogrammed buttons, everything can be setup to control some.
If you want ur trunk pop button to honk your horn, do it. if you want the * button to pop the trunk, knock urself out. what you will need to do though is figure out what option a and b wires are so you can hook them up accordingly. Make sure you remember that the outputs are prolly positive, some models you can change from neg/post, and that you set the alarm to either be able to pop the trunk when it's armed/unarmed, or whether you want a pulse,on/off switch, or a timed pop.
Everything you need to know is in the manual. I'm actually trying to do this to a 6th gen rite now but my trunk deck is dynamatted and is a PITA to remove. Good luck with it tho.
If you want ur trunk pop button to honk your horn, do it. if you want the * button to pop the trunk, knock urself out. what you will need to do though is figure out what option a and b wires are so you can hook them up accordingly. Make sure you remember that the outputs are prolly positive, some models you can change from neg/post, and that you set the alarm to either be able to pop the trunk when it's armed/unarmed, or whether you want a pulse,on/off switch, or a timed pop.
Everything you need to know is in the manual. I'm actually trying to do this to a 6th gen rite now but my trunk deck is dynamatted and is a PITA to remove. Good luck with it tho.
#461
Re: Ask Me About DIY Stuff V2!
do you know how to remove the stock head unit form a 2001 honda civic lx? and put in a new head unit. i know you have to pull out the lighter part and unscrew 2 screws. i have that done. but the head unit is the hard part. i cant pull it or push it from behind it. i will not budge.
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Sorry, but I don't have a lot of experience with the 7th gens, but if it's like my old car, it has a antitheft bar attached to it. All it really is, is a metal bracket screwed into the headunit and screwed into somewhere on the metal behind the dash. I think there are some threads that already cover this.
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you really have to pull hard on the whole dash trim piece after removing the screws. the radio and all the climate controls comes out together as a single part and there are clips all along the edges where the piece meets the dash.
^the bracket is the thing where the two screws are he removed already. i think hes trying to just push the deck out and it wont work that way.
^the bracket is the thing where the two screws are he removed already. i think hes trying to just push the deck out and it wont work that way.
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hey gearbox
i want to use larger wire than stock wiring for my after market radio but i don't want to have it hard wired to the battery... can i use a relay ??? run a wire from the battery to the relay, use the stock radio wire to trigger the relay, and run a larger wire to the radio?. And what relay would you suggest?
I've run my battery dead in my 1967 vw bug dead because i forgot to turn the radio off.... thought i turned it off but it was in the demo mode
thanks
i want to use larger wire than stock wiring for my after market radio but i don't want to have it hard wired to the battery... can i use a relay ??? run a wire from the battery to the relay, use the stock radio wire to trigger the relay, and run a larger wire to the radio?. And what relay would you suggest?
I've run my battery dead in my 1967 vw bug dead because i forgot to turn the radio off.... thought i turned it off but it was in the demo mode
thanks
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if you have a 67 bug, i would recommend upgraded relay harness for just about everything. that car is an electrical disaster lol. but yeah a relay harness for the radio will not really work. radio must be powered at all times to retain memory like audio settings and radio stations. but if you dont care, a relay harness can be made by using the ignition wire as a trigger and 14 gauge wire from battery to deck with 30 amp relay and a 15 amp fuse. that way the radio will shut off when you turn the car off.
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Gearbox, what alarm do you have for your car? Any recommendations for an alarm brand or options for an alarm? Also what ever happened to being able to look at peoples Mod list?
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yeah i was thinking of cutting the main power to the deck and keeping the wire that runs from the ignition/acc connected to the stock harness.
Run a larger wire from the battery to a relay, run a wire from the radio harness acc to trigger, and have more power to the radio... I'm just afraid i might melt my car
yeah and my bug is sooooooo much more easy to work on!!!!!!!! i have more wiring to my Honda's cluster then i do in the whole Volkswagen
Run a larger wire from the battery to a relay, run a wire from the radio harness acc to trigger, and have more power to the radio... I'm just afraid i might melt my car
yeah and my bug is sooooooo much more easy to work on!!!!!!!! i have more wiring to my Honda's cluster then i do in the whole Volkswagen
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for a 2004 civic, the stereo already should have the ignition remote wire so that the deck will shut off if the key is removed. im not sure why yours would stay on unless the install wasnt done properly. you have a hard wire to battery and also a low volt signal from the ignition wire to the deck and you need both to supply power or the deck will not come on (altho actual power is only delivered thru the battery wire). only upgrade i did was run a new 14 gauge wire (with 15 amp fuse) from deck to battery so its not underpowered. the ignition wire is low volt signal and doesnt need any wire upgrade. i think you are overcomplicating it.
BJanzen- i still have my old viper 600 alarm for 7 yrs now. all i did was put a new siren when one of the wires snapped and i had to rewire and thought may as well put a bmw siren instead lol. i think any DEI alarm will last you a long time. to look at mod lists, click the username of the person on their post and it takes you to their profile page with comments. theres another tab with mods on it but you have to be using one of the newer themes.
BJanzen- i still have my old viper 600 alarm for 7 yrs now. all i did was put a new siren when one of the wires snapped and i had to rewire and thought may as well put a bmw siren instead lol. i think any DEI alarm will last you a long time. to look at mod lists, click the username of the person on their post and it takes you to their profile page with comments. theres another tab with mods on it but you have to be using one of the newer themes.
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thanks gearbox
youre right the ignition wire will turn to radio on and off,
didnt think about that
need to spreed rep around before i can rep you again
youre right the ignition wire will turn to radio on and off,
didnt think about that
need to spreed rep around before i can rep you again
Last edited by Mr. Beefy; 05-13-2009 at 09:29 AM. Reason: rep
#471
Re: Ask Me About DIY Stuff V2!
The automatic functions on my moonroof stopped working (2006 EX Civic). I used to be able to press once straight up in to the toggle switch, and it would automatically move to the position where it tilts forward and lets air in the back of the opening. The same single press would close it to the closed position. That no longer works.
I also could just press once back on the toggle and release for the sunroof to slide entirely open or closed...just like my driver side window. That functionality of the sunroof stopped working as well.
What this means is that I am having to guess if I have it completely closed when I move back and forth between the tilt position and the open position. It used to just automatically set itself.
Any suggestions? Is this something I can reprogram? I fuse issue? Or do I need a larger repair? Many thanks for any help.
I also could just press once back on the toggle and release for the sunroof to slide entirely open or closed...just like my driver side window. That functionality of the sunroof stopped working as well.
What this means is that I am having to guess if I have it completely closed when I move back and forth between the tilt position and the open position. It used to just automatically set itself.
Any suggestions? Is this something I can reprogram? I fuse issue? Or do I need a larger repair? Many thanks for any help.
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it sounds like a switch issue to me. the auto feature uses very small pieces inside that can break over time and not hold the command anymore. i would try replacing the switch first before doing more expensive repairs. chances are the moonroof motor is still okay if you are able to still open and close it by holding the button. you may even try to open up your existing switch and see if everything inside looks okay. it may be that some of the metal contacts are just dirty and you can clean them with alcohol. (be sure the switch is unplugged from the car harness before opening and cleaning it).
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well im not too familiar with the dash on the newer civics. but the connector is in the back of the switch so assuming you figure out how to pop the switch out the dash, the connector in the back just pulls out when you squeeze the tabs. then the switch is prolly snapped together so you can pry it open with a small screwdriver.
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Got a new one for ya gear. I want a push button start for my 98 civic and I want it in place of the current ignition switch, meaning keyless starting. I know some of the new lincons and mercurys have them but idk if they are keyless starts as well. I found some posts of people doing this but it seems a lot simpler then what they are making it. I also need a nice looking push button so it doesn't look too ghetto.
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i think for security reasons, you cant have a car with a start button. it would be too easy to steal. im sure its possible on older cars without immobilizer, its just a matter of juicing the ignition which can be done with a simple harness and relay. i dont know off hand where or what the wires are, but im sure its easy to do. im not sure you would want to. imagine the look on the gang members face when he just pushes a button and the car starts.
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Gearbox,
I didn't want to go through all 32 pages, so sorry if you answered this before, but where did you get the carbon fiber dash?
I didn't want to go through all 32 pages, so sorry if you answered this before, but where did you get the carbon fiber dash?
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Jessica- my cf dash is actually "fake" in that it has a pattern but not real cf weave. its the original honda oem trim kit from handaaccessories.com and it has a shiny surface. if you want the real stuff, ebay is the place to go.
mexSican- not sure on the mounts, i imagine it will change based on the car. ive seen mounts that look very similar between models, but there are slight differences in the mounting that may cause problems.
mexSican- not sure on the mounts, i imagine it will change based on the car. ive seen mounts that look very similar between models, but there are slight differences in the mounting that may cause problems.
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You can even check the mounts with the actual si ones from a dealership. Sounds like a lot to worry about, but I'm about 95% positive that they are the same since no new bolt holes were drilled for the si models and my mounts fit in a 99. Even if they don't match up correctly, there is always ways around it, as most people don't always have the correct mounts, they usually customize them to work.