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I was curious as to how resilient our engines are when run at high RPM's. I've been having a lot of fun on mountain roads lately keeping my RPM's pretty much above 4,500 all the way to 6,500. I was thinking of possibly doing a NA build, not necessarily for HP, but for strength and longevity. Maybe a Crower stage 1 cam and valve springs with Dezod connecting rods.
Will this be necessary to keep the little honda ticking for hundreds of thousands of miles longer with me treating it like this or is it a wast of time and money.
If it's a smart thing should I consider anything else? Sleeves? Anything else to strengthen the bottom end? What about that extra oil line that coats the valves?
I have a CAI and header already.

 
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arent hondas known for high reving? of course its bad to keep flooring it every where you go. but if youtake care of your car it will take care of you

 
Rep Power: 300

I would say its a waste of money to upgrade the D17 to make it stronger unless you are going for over ~200whp. The engine should hold well at stock levels even if you beat the hell out of it. Just dont let it go low on oil and dont overheat it. Also think about this... A used D17 usually runs for $300-$400+ Install, It would probably be cheaper to go through 2 or 3 engines rather then to build one strong one.

 
Rep Power: 389

You dont need the valve spring upgrade with the stage 2 cam. Only with the stage 2 and stage 3 cams do you need it. Save 300 bucks

If you want to rev better, get the crower maxi-light rods, they save weight and allow the pistons to travel faster and the crank to spin quicker- will give you better acceleration. Pistons wouldnt be needed if you could get the rods to work with your current pistons. If you get higher compression pistons you'll get more power, but you'll need to have it tuned and you'll want a standalone EMS for that.

Ya wont have to sleeve the block either- its indestructible without boost.

Oil line... enh, I dunno... they are oiled fine. Bug dezod to develop the rocker arms- those things make a lot of noise, and I think there is a little power to be made out of them, not a lot, but a little- every bit helps, especially in a NA build.

 
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I didn't realize these engines were that cheap. And I can do the install myself, just need to rent an engine hoist. (Although, I'll be honest, This car is a BI**H to work on. I can't fit my hands anywhere. It's nothing like what I'm used to.)
I'm not always ragging it, it's just when I go out specifically to drive some crazy beautiful twist section of road that I treat it rough for 15-25 miles. But I don't even know where the rev. limiter is yet. I shift around 6,500 when I'm getting on it. I'm always on top of the few gauges you get stock, and oil is full synthetic every 3,000 and checked every time I fill up.

 
Rep Power: 300

your not beating it that bad then... Im WAY harder on my car and bounce mine off the rev limiter on a pretty regular basis lol. Actually doing the whole engine isnt that bad. I can get it done in about 5 hours by myself. Its just sometimes if the engine is in the car its a bitch to do work lol.

 
Rep Power: 230

i beat on my car almost every day. no problems yet. just do oil changes and regular maintenence and you will be fine. BUT i have a friend who has a friend who ownes the same car as me and he blew his d17.. it is na with just intake and exhaust.. he blew it because he wasnt doing his oil changes... thats what i heard that caused his motor to blow... i think its funny... lol i never heard of anyone blowing their motor with just intake and exhaust...