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I know are engines are crap, but... What do you need to run atleast a bar on a D17??? Pistons, connecting rods, block guard... What else??? Thanks.[IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG] Don't post carp PLEASE!

 
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if your gonna be running that much boost on D series sleeving the block might be necessary as will new higher temp valves, stronger valvesprings to ensure a proper seal ARP head studs, and of course much bigger injectors and port work for the engine to actually flow that much air...

 
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wow, good luck, mucho moneeyyy.

 
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rods and crank you are fine, but you'll need pistons more than likely as well as what mohawkboom said.

 
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I know that the stock head gasket blows out at 10psi. You need a metal one. If one isn't available, then make your own out of gasket material. I think they offer special copper sheets for this purpose, but I haven't researched this yet, so I don't know for sure...

You definately want to flow more air, but it technically isn't required to run 18psi. You'll run 18psi with the stock valve diameter, the stock intake and exhaust port size, the stock throttle body, and the stock intake manifold. However, the pressure will drop because of the flow rate. Even though you'll have 18psi before the throttle body, you won't have 18psi in the combustion chamber. Your flow rate will be too low (at a certain rpm) to allow the air to be compressed to 18psi when the intake valves close.

The valve springs will definately need to be upgraded (don't know at what psi). When the intake valves close, and the piston is just about to make its way up to compress the fuel and air, there's still 18psi pushing on the valves trying to make them open. This doesn't seal the combustion chamber properly and you may lose some of the fuel and air in the combustion chamber before it is ignited. Again, you may think you're running 18psi, but you might be running something lower.

Same with the exhaust valve overlap. I don't know if our cams are set up to have that, but this overlap should be shortened when running FI. Otherwise you get the same thing, you think you're running 18psi, but you're actually running something lower.

Pistons, of course. Don't know what psi ours are rated to (or to what compression ratio, same thing), but I bet they won't take 18psi. I doubt that the connecting rods will hold, but who knows... Crank shaft might need to be beefed up as well at that psi, but who knows... You don't know for sure until you run 18psi and your crankshaft holds (along with everything else).

Colder spark plugs are good. Probably two ranges colder (maybe even three) at that psi. A better ignition system may not be necessary, but one will definately help. What else... Well, bigger BOV (rated to at least 18psi).

Sleeved block, for sure...

Block guard, maybe... I still don't know if they actually work or not? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

A clutch that's able to handle that much power.

There's a couple other things to take into consideration, that's for sure. I just can't think of any more right now...

 
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the best way to go is to drop a K20a motor then turbo that

 
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True... Also the most expensive.

 
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yes drop another 10 grand on the k20 drop, now your looking at a civic with an RSX engine, and you spent 15k for the car and another 10k for the drop, seems logical.

 
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k20 motor is to damn much and that motor aint even that great

 
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Thats why you rebuild the motor to be better.

Drop in all the needed internals and run some good amount of boost. You can have yourself a good 350hp...but expensive *** hell to do it that way. Something to do if you gots the money.

 
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i agree, the inflated price is in large part due to the motor being relatively new but i still don't see how it is more expensive than a B18C5. without having to think twice i'd take the b18 over the k20