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Hey guys.

This is my winter project with the help of tkmotion..it's gonna be a little different, but same basic concept....any idea's or comments?.. After it's done...it's getting Dynoe'd...by mid summer my suspension mods will be done, and my engine will be 50% done..Custom intake manifold, Port work, headers, exhaust, and custom intake system with K&N filter...next year, new cam, new valve springs, new pistons

Linky to rough DIY

 
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Looks pretty interesting! So did they tell you what type of gains may be possible. Or, have you seen the gains on a D16 with a new intake manifold? One thing I find kind of strange is that they make it from steel, specificly exhaust tubing. I would guess there may be a chance of rusting. Why not aluminum or stainless. I know they're more expensive and difficult to weld, but it seems like the way to go. Those guys have made a few intakes so they should know what they're doing. That RX-7 intake looks like it was put together nicely. It good to see some people doing custom work like this. I'd like to as well, but my current situation doesn't allow. Good luck!

 
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Aluminized steel won't rust as long as it's painted..Atmospheric moisture on the inside of the piping won't cause rust for 3-4 years..and evn then it will be very minimal surface rust...

Gains aren't astronomical...but in league with ported heads it's a good 40% increase in air flow..so with the P&P and intake manifold about 4-5hP on it's own...but once headers are installed and exhaust system...then eventually cams and pistons much bigger gains can be realized.. a D17 has a fairly long stroke so it's pretty torquey with proper airflow. Once I'm all done next year my car will put out at least 140Whp, possibly up to 150whp so it'll be in league with a B16b or a B18C1, but have more torque but not rev as high...

I'm working with engine builder who has 25 world records under his belt so I don't doubt his estimates 1 bit and he always under guesses himself.

 
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Why don't you get it ceramic coated then you won't have to worry about rust? I know a place that does it. www.skperformance.com

 
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because rust isn't an issue with aluminized steel. How long does it take for bare exhaust pipe to start to rust on a car?.. 2-3 Years and even then it comes in direct contact with alot of water over those years. now..the exterior is going to painted then heat treated. the interior is only going to come in contact with minor atmospheric humidity..it's gonna take many years before it rusts

 
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did either of those custom tube shops help any?

 
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nope...all I need is straight pipes...I forgot the damn ports are oval

 
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Looks interesting Mohawk....good luck

 
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Sounds good. Be sure to tell us a final price and most of all lots and lots of pics!!

 
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I read your post talking to xxx99vtec (whatever his name is) about the stock intake manifold. I knew it was plastic but became interested in getting a custom one made for my car once you explained how the stock one works.

 
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It's not too hard to make. I'm doing mine mostly myself. so steel is what I can work with. If you get a shop to build it for you... expect to pay about $6-800 for an aluminum one with velocity stacks [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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mohawkboom: u r doing it urself?/?.... how much do u have to spend?

 
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Doing it mostly myself.. aboust $60 for piping and the 1/4" x3" plate. It's gonna run me about $250 for everything. With welding, Fitting the injectors. getting the intake runners matched to the ports.. For aluminum it would run about $200 in parts, Gettong one completely custom made by a shop from aluminum would only run about $6-700CAD

 
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do you know of a shop that would make one? email address? website? cause that one says toyota.

 
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When is ur going to be finish?

 
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The design in basics will work for ANY engine...Some changes will have to be made for the vertical mounted throttle body and oval intake runners..other than that/...she's the same..


As for when it's gonna be done...no clue..haven't started..I'm trying to find the parts in aluminum..but it's pretty dang expensive

 
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what are your dimensions for the intake runners and plenum. Hope you did your homework and found the correct numbers, cuz that stuff matters.

 
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MOHAWKBOOM, you can start making some for us!! Ill pay you for one!

 
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remember lotta pic and $$?

 
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Because of ym work schedule and Winter I haven't gotten too much of it done yet. I've tapered the intake runners to match the valves. and I've made the mounting plate and cut the holes and finished it. smoothed out all edges, painted it.

 
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Hey Mohawk do you think that u will get a check engine light. I got my custom intake manifold done prob over a month ago. And they get a CEL from it and the shop said its from not having an IAT sensor, supposedly the manifold doesnt have a spot to hook it up to, or something. Not real sure about it. Do you know exactly why that would throw off the CEL and would you know of a way to solve it maybe. In the cold my car hardly starts and you have to keep ur foot on the gas to keep it started. It idles so low and hes messed with it a couple times and it still idles at like 250 maybe 500 sometimes. I was gonna to turbo for my car in summer, but i dont want to hook up turbo with all this **** so I m looking for solutions to fix er up for turbo, but I might just try to do swap if i cant fix it. Anyhelp would be appreciated thanks. Sorry for so long

 
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Because I'm building it myself I'm gonna be making adapters for proper connection of all the sensors. Next week my intake runners go to a shop to have the rars fluted for better air velocity and more CFM's, I have to wait untill spring t finish the Plenum which is going to have air guides to each runner to improve air velocity and add more low end torque and most importantly leave me with really kick[IMG]i/expressions/moon.gif[/IMG] throttle response.

 
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So would not having the IAT sensor throw the CEL, do u know how i could fix it. Also does the IAT sensor connect to throttle body or to the manifold . If its on the manifold itself couldnt thay just add a new adaptor for it.

 
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I think that sensore is connector after the Throttle body. Just check your old manifold for where the connection was

 
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mohawk, how much longer before it is done? I am really interested because I have really been thinking about doing the whole custom intake manifold if it is worth it in power. Please keep us posted. Also if yours comes out ok and works would you think about going into production and selling them on the site, Im sure if you can get them cheap enough a bunch of us would buy them.

 
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With the time involved in it and the difficulty of getting the tapering just right I wouldn't be worth it for me to seel them. I'd have to sell them for $400US because of the sheer time it takes.

As for power gains. Going by the flow differences on the intake runners and the TB alone tested seperately. Without port work you'll be getting another 25cfm of air and much much higher air velocity. SO a noticable low end gain and 3-4 Peak HP and much much improved throttle response.

SHould raise torque up 6-8 ft.lbs and start producing more torque down at about 4000rpms instread of 4500.

With proper port work and a good intake these numbers would go up a fair bit. 10-12 Peak HP and torque will be available even lower. Not much more torque gain though.

None of it's Dyno Tested but I'm getting the help of a professional NHRA engine builder who speciallizes in port work and custom intakes and these are his plotted estimatas. Which are usually pretty underrated.

He recently just did the heads on 2.0L VW bug and made a custom ITB intake manifold and from that alone the Bug gained 28HP at the wheels.

The Bug is owned by trac racing, and produces a wholloping 231 Whp from a 2.0L N/A engine.

 
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Hello, I am new to this site but I have some good news for all you fella's with d17's. I am a shop supervisor for East Coast Fabrication and I currently own a 7th gen EX. I am very close to finishing off a custom aluminum intake. I have designed my manifold to work with the OEM injector flange ,fuel rail,gaskets,etc. etc. It converts the top mount throttle body to a side mount and i can make them with or without internal velocity stacks. When its done i will be looking to sell them. They will be powdercoated aluminum or can be ordered in unfinished aluminum. rough estimates are $600 without I.V.S. and $750 with the I.V.S. These are top quality intakes custom made to work with your engine. custom runner lenghts and plenum sizes (to a certain point). I will post some pics in about a month or two and let my company's work speak for itself. I dunno if anyone is interested, feedback would be a precciated
GJ77camaro@hotmail.com Thanks, Gerry[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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Gerry..

Check this thread out and offer some feedback [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

http://2k1civic.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=7&threadid=77315&STARTPAGE=2

 
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Killer n/a setup. i was gunna do the same thing basically but i decided to go turbo instead. prolly be complete next fall depending on how many discrepancies i have. with 6 or 7 pounds of boost im not too worried tho. its mostly for show and a hobbie anyways, not that goin fast isnt good hehe. on a further note my intakes may be expensive but they are beautiful and they will perform [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] i work with all metals including titanium (expensive lol) if anyone is in the southern new angland area and u need something email me i can do almost anything, very professonal. by the end of next year ill be making tubular s/s turbo headers for our cars too, hopefully. GJ77camaro@hotmail.com