Rim Requirments!
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio, US
Rep Power: 0 
Rim Requirments!
I need to find out all I will need when buying my rims:
This is what I'm Looking at so far:
17" ADR GT Sports or Konig Verticts wrapped in Kuhmos
Skunk 2 Coilovers (dropping 2")
Ingalls Camber Kit
Is there anything else I would need...?
This is what I'm Looking at so far:
17" ADR GT Sports or Konig Verticts wrapped in Kuhmos
Skunk 2 Coilovers (dropping 2")
Ingalls Camber Kit
Is there anything else I would need...?
DIY King
iTrader: (61)
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 11,469
Likes: 0
From: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 419 Plus something called a hub ring I think. I asked a long time ago what this was and the response I got was:
<< Hubrings keep the wheels from vibration at high speed all after market wheels need hubrings since they are so universal. >>
Can anyone elaborate?
<< Hubrings keep the wheels from vibration at high speed all after market wheels need hubrings since they are so universal. >>
Can anyone elaborate?
Registered!!
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
Rep Power: 0 Yeah, I am particularly interested in knowing more about hub rings. I got my new rims this past weekend, and any time I take it to highway speeds I get vibration through the steering wheel. Ideally this is just a poor balance job, but I'll be able to determine that after Friday when I take it in to get re-balanced from the wheel supplier.
I did a search on Google and found this from a BMW enthusiast site:
---
Yes, it pays to use "hubcentric" alloy wheels (wheel bore "fits"
car's hub bore). If the wheel's bore is bigger than the hub bore,
then use a hubring (center locating ring made of aluminum or
plastic that reduces the wheel's bore diameter). These rings help
locate the wheel in relation with hub so that fastening the wheel
lugnuts/bolts is easier.
Engineers argue whether hubrings are really necessary. Suffice
to say that all original equipment wheels are manufactured to
suit their intended vehicles (with a wheel bore size around
0.1mm larger that the car's hub/bore diameter). As such, an E21 with
a 57.0mm hub diameter, will need a wheel and/or hubring with a bore
diameter of 57.1mm.
Assuming your wheels and tires are in good condition, and they
are balanced properly, then you should not have a problem using
wheels that are not hubcentric (with or without hubrings) for as
long as they are properly fastened (properly torqued and then
re-torqued after at least 40 miles). More important, use the correct
offset wheels.
Make sure that aftermarket wheels have lugholes/seats that match the
60 degree taper of your BMW's wheel bolts. Try to stick close to
your car's OE offset (18mm for E21s). This way, extra width will be
spread evenly inside and outside - maintaining OE steering and
suspension geometry.
---
I did a search on Google and found this from a BMW enthusiast site:
---
Yes, it pays to use "hubcentric" alloy wheels (wheel bore "fits"
car's hub bore). If the wheel's bore is bigger than the hub bore,
then use a hubring (center locating ring made of aluminum or
plastic that reduces the wheel's bore diameter). These rings help
locate the wheel in relation with hub so that fastening the wheel
lugnuts/bolts is easier.
Engineers argue whether hubrings are really necessary. Suffice
to say that all original equipment wheels are manufactured to
suit their intended vehicles (with a wheel bore size around
0.1mm larger that the car's hub/bore diameter). As such, an E21 with
a 57.0mm hub diameter, will need a wheel and/or hubring with a bore
diameter of 57.1mm.
Assuming your wheels and tires are in good condition, and they
are balanced properly, then you should not have a problem using
wheels that are not hubcentric (with or without hubrings) for as
long as they are properly fastened (properly torqued and then
re-torqued after at least 40 miles). More important, use the correct
offset wheels.
Make sure that aftermarket wheels have lugholes/seats that match the
60 degree taper of your BMW's wheel bolts. Try to stick close to
your car's OE offset (18mm for E21s). This way, extra width will be
spread evenly inside and outside - maintaining OE steering and
suspension geometry.
---
Registered!!
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
Rep Power: 0 Here's another excerpt I found on the Web through Google...
---
"THE VITAL ROLE OF THE HUBRING DURING INSTALLATION
by Gary Whisler; Eastern Regional Sales Manager
Hub rings serve no purpose after installation, their entire job is to hold your Alba Performance wheel perfectly centered while the lug nuts are being installed.
The hub rings sole responsibility is to take up the space between the center bore of the wheel and the hub of the car. For example: the center bore of all 4x100mm and 5x100mm wheels is 64mm. However, the hub diameter of the Honda is 56.1mm. Therefore to take up the space between 64mm and 56.1mm a hub ring is used.
All wheels are classified as being either "Hub Centric", or "Lug Centric." The term Centric refers to the way a wheel is centered. In other words a hub centric wheel centers on the hub of the car, if you put the wheel on the car without lug nuts the wheel would be perfectly centered. On a lug centric wheel, the wheels are centered by the lugs as they are tightened down. Manufacturers build wheels lug centric to allow the wheel to fit a wider selection of vehicles.
I cannot stress enough how essential it is for you to be certain that the installer of your Alba Performance Wheel has used the correct hubring. Statistics show that the most common cause of a car vibration is a wheel that is off center slightly. For example, with lug centric wheels vibrations commonly occur when an installer tightens the lug nuts incorrectly, such as when they tighten one side before the other the wheel can be "pulled" to one side. This common problem could be prevented if the correct hubring was used during installation."
---
---
"THE VITAL ROLE OF THE HUBRING DURING INSTALLATION
by Gary Whisler; Eastern Regional Sales Manager
Hub rings serve no purpose after installation, their entire job is to hold your Alba Performance wheel perfectly centered while the lug nuts are being installed.
The hub rings sole responsibility is to take up the space between the center bore of the wheel and the hub of the car. For example: the center bore of all 4x100mm and 5x100mm wheels is 64mm. However, the hub diameter of the Honda is 56.1mm. Therefore to take up the space between 64mm and 56.1mm a hub ring is used.
All wheels are classified as being either "Hub Centric", or "Lug Centric." The term Centric refers to the way a wheel is centered. In other words a hub centric wheel centers on the hub of the car, if you put the wheel on the car without lug nuts the wheel would be perfectly centered. On a lug centric wheel, the wheels are centered by the lugs as they are tightened down. Manufacturers build wheels lug centric to allow the wheel to fit a wider selection of vehicles.
I cannot stress enough how essential it is for you to be certain that the installer of your Alba Performance Wheel has used the correct hubring. Statistics show that the most common cause of a car vibration is a wheel that is off center slightly. For example, with lug centric wheels vibrations commonly occur when an installer tightens the lug nuts incorrectly, such as when they tighten one side before the other the wheel can be "pulled" to one side. This common problem could be prevented if the correct hubring was used during installation."
---
[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] DIY King
iTrader: (61)
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 11,469
Likes: 0
From: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 419 It depends on the wheels. If they're hub-centric then hub rings are required. If they're lug-centric then hub rings are not required. Your information was pretty good klam, that's what I'm basing my comment on. In other words, it depends on the rim. You'll need to ask the sellers if the rim requires a hub ring or not.
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio, US
Rep Power: 0 they said hub ring, but what I want to know can I save some money buy purchasing springs instead of coilovers. If I went with the springs(1" drop) what would I need? The rims are gonna be Konig Verdicts if that helps.
DIY King
iTrader: (61)
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 11,469
Likes: 0
From: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 419 The springs with a 1" drop shouldn't require a camber kit or new struts. Then again, even with a small drop like that you could use both a camber kit and new struts. It all depends on how much you're willing to spend.
DIY King
iTrader: (61)
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 11,469
Likes: 0
From: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 419 Sure, it would be allright. However you're risking that your struts might blow out and that your tires will wear unevenly. The lower you go the more pronounced this will be. If you plan on getting a camber kit and struts in like a couple of months and you don't overload your car then I think that'll work.
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
