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poll added

 
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I voted dino because of the cold start issue with synthetic, and because the price annoys me. And the synthetic oil users often have that holier than though attitude, looking down on use conventional users as if were intentionally beating our cars. And that's what gets me the most. I don't like that. I mean ****, I can see where they're coming from though: Paying over 5 dollars for a quart, I would have to be zealous too.

I will definitely buy some LC20 one of these days. Other than that, I prefer a good conventional lay over synthetic.

 
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I just use conventional because I don't need anything special right now, maybe when I get my new si and I get all my upgrades going, I might want to take a little extra care of it you know? but really I dont see the point for an everyday driver like myself.

 
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so shouldnt the question be then which oil is better for my.....? Because depending on the view of the question we get different answers. If you push your car and its not running stock what oil? And if you dont push your car and are running stock what oil? you see what i mean?

 
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thats what I'm saying, clearly the question (or poll) is synthetic or regular

 
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Is it true that synthetic users can go about 10k without any additives?

 
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supposedly yes. i dont see how, since oil oxidation still occurs. maybe the additives in synthetic last longer?

 
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Btw, Supertech oil is good stuff. Seems their semi-synthetic particularly stands out. I honestly don't understand this chart, but maybe you guys do.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...284018&fpart=1

 
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I hear synthetic is better than regular, but it's not necessarily needed. Oh and if you use Mobil 1, you might have a hard time finding their products. They're having a shortage due to Hurricane Ike.

 
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so would you buy the lc20 first then the fp 60 or fp plus if you cant/dont want to buy them both at the same time?

 
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I would get the FP60 (which is called something else now) if I had to choose one. The effects can be dramatic if you've never run a good cleaner through there. So for the FP60, it's something you need to run. But LC20 is not something critical.

I've run FP60 on 2 volvo's going cross country. 2300 miles on one volvo, 2300 on the other. Both felt like new cars after the FP60 was run through them. And it works in my car, of course.

 
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and i just read for the lc20 1oz for every 1000 miles maintenance. so every 1000miles you gotta pour 1oz of lc20 into your oil? so a quart will last about 2 oil changes. about 4 oz for the oil change. then 10 oz for 10,000miles (if you decide to max it out)

and the only difference between the fp 60 and fp plus is ? correct me if im wrong. that's just what it seems like from going to http://lcdinc.zoovy.com/

fp60= 1oz/5gal gasoline/diesel
fp plus=1oz/10gal gasoline

 
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i ran fp60 a few months before buying lc20. they do two completely different things and to me are equally important. fp60 is now replaced by fp plus which is more concentrated, uses a renewable base, and is much thinner while providing better lubrication. get a gallon of each, it will last you well over a year with normal use.

 
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aight. well, i'll probably start off with the fp plus, then eventually get the lc20. thanks for the help.

 
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Post up with your results.

I bought some valvoline semi-synthetic (max life). I'm curious how long it lasts, and how well it expands seals. I've never run a high mileage before.

 
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im not sure yet, but i think my rear main seal leak just fixed itself lol. i cleaned it up a week ago and nothing is dripping. maybe from the maxlife, maybe because i started doing my own oil changes and dont overfill it like the shop always did. maxlife is prolly the best hi mileage there is because of the high moly count (thats actually the only part thats synthetic, the 25% part).

 
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Are you talking about the crankshaft seal located on the right of the engine? Given that I need to remove my trany again I'm thinking of replacing that seal.

 
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well said gear.....well said...

no gear.....ur the god of this civic forum...

 
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yeah cleft, if the trans is out already, you might as well replace the seal. just make sure you know how to put it in, its a two piece and if you dont put it in properly it will leak all over.

 
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Nah no way, I'm not taking off that FW again. Those 6 bolts were a bitch at 87 foot pounds. They were more like 100 due to being 12 years old. Probably much easier the second time around but still. And does that seal even need to be replaced? No one else seems to do it.

Oh man, the last thing I want to do is take off the trany again. I think I will just say **** it and forget about it.

So did you ever find a job?

 
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ha no job yet, im still looking. everything i applied for turned me down. i guess biology masters doesnt mean much these days.

the seal only needs to be replaced when it leaks, idk, it just happens i guess. mine started leaking at 50k miles for no reason. usually the main reason is just age from the seal shrinking and cracking, but overfilling the oil can cause it too.

 
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I didn't see any leaking on my seal, so I'm happy about that. But that's totally lame how your failed at 50k. Btw, your oil seal leak is a recall for that year range. I can give you the honda report unless you already know about it. Maybe you can get it replaced without warranty?

 
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yeah give me, i actually havent seen that recall. i doubt they would fix it out of warranty but maybe...

 
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Well I deleted the one I had, which had a red honda logo, but I found this one which is the same. However, mine might be more recent. I wonder if your VIN falls in there.

http://www.honda-fanatics.nl/Picture...tsb_01-040.pdf

 
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Lol, gimme gimme gimme.

See the thing is, I bet Honda will do it for you but the thing is that you have to be sure it's the main oil seal. How do you know it's not the mainshaft ISB seal? These guys would pull your trany which is major, so if it turns out your crankshaft seal is fine, then your *** is going to be credit cardin'. Well, I would talk to them about it.

 
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i already took it to a well known shop in town and they said the same thing (rear main seal). its a small seepage now so all the leak does is stick to the trans like a goo. nothing hits the ground yet. so technically its not an urgent problem. but im sure i can go in there and complain how its a safety issue and blah blah they would prolly do it. i got a recall for the headlight switch burning out but never got it done either. it still works fine. but see the link you gave me is just for tsb, not recall. theres no way they would cover that out of warranty.

 
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Yeah sorry, I thought TSB's were recalls. Nah I doubt you could contrive a safety reasoning behind it. What could you really say? "Yeah ummm, I could slip and fall on the puddle of oil."

Cars, what a benefit and a hastle.

 
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its true, they always have problems. i love my car but its alot of work at the same time keeping up with it.

 
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Has anyone ever used a Fumoto oil drain valve? (a permanent oil pan plug/valve that you can turn on/off and even attach a hose to) It looked like a good idea.. Lookin for any input on it..

 
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na but is it that difficult to use a socket and what if you want to use a magnet you would have to remove it anyway.