Rep Power: 267

Outside of the transmission housing, what adjustements can one make to the clutch other than adjusting clutch pedal spec? The reason I ask is that the previous owner did a clutch replacement at 60k, and I'm wondering if it was installed or adjusted correctly. I remember somebody mentioning the mechanical device right on the housing itself. There is a bleeder screw there, and it has to be set a certain way.

I will do some research in the shop manual in the meantime...

 
Rep Power: 267

I think it's my clutch that's worn. My issue since buying the car was that I'm getting clutch chatter at low RPM takeoff, and in between shifts. It isn't grabbing like it should. He also said the throwout bearing might be going out because of that.

 
Rep Power: 0

The chatter definitely sounds like a bad clutch or hot spots on the flywheel but your throw out bearing should be okay unless you here a growl from the trans that goes away when you push the clutch in, but if your in there might as well just spend the money and replace it to avoid future headaches

 
Rep Power: 267

Thanks for the info. I don't hear a growl when the clutch is disengaged, I hear a rattle. But when I press it in it goes away. The main issue though is that when I go easy on the trany (low revs) it makes a horrible "bearing" noise. Not a grinding, but a bearing noise. If I put a lot of load on the clutch, then the problem goes away. It's like the pressure plate twists or something and oscillates (depending on driving habbit) between point A and B.

I'm going to replace the whole trany within the next year. When I got the car, there was a sound as if a gear tooth was broken loose. After 2 years, the sound is gone, and I'm thinking that it turned to dust from being chewed up, if that whole situation is even possible. And if it is, then that's a bad thing. I wonder if it's a time bomb. I should probably change the fluid again it's been 30k. Is it true that Honda puts in 10w30?

I don't know what route I should go. From what I've read, rebuilt trany's run a lot of money, or is that wrong? I've read that I can get a used trany for 250 and up + shipping. But I don't know what other components I should get. I'm thinking I should invest in a new fly wheel. During a clutch replacement, you're supposed to check it for cracks and if it does, then a replacement is necessary. Or, if the flywheel is okay, then a resurface is required. But I've read that the honda flywheel's have a tendency to form hard spots. Is this true? If so, I would like to replace it with an aftermarket...

 
Rep Power: 288

Correction, if you press the clutch pedal down to the floor and the 'noise' stops, then you have an issue with the input shaft bearing.

If you hear nothing normally, then press the clutch pedal down to the floor, and you hear the 'noise' THEN the issue is with the throwout bearing.

I agree, when it's open, do everything you can to fix whatever, then you won't have to open it up again.


It is possible, and it is bad. It's not necessarily a time bomb, but it will kill the bearings. Bomerman was telling me this happened to him. You can use regular engine oil for it, but according to some people I've seen them saying that it's supposed to be temporary. Honda has it's own trans fluid that's good.

From what I've learned, transmission rebuilds are very expensive. four digits. If you're going to get a new clutch, get the new flywheel, I would do it just because it's opened up. Plus you can get a nice aftermarket one. Fidanza FTW.

 
Rep Power: 267

Great info thanks. I want to also say that I think the previous owner rode the clutch at stop lights. My friend tells me that a lot of people do that. So given that, what external components should I switch? I've read that I should replace the master and slave cylinders.

"Another item that should also be replaced is the release cable on older vehicles with this type of linkage. If a vehicle has a hydraulic linkage with a lot of miles on it, it would be wise to replace the master and slave cylinders, too, even if they are not leaking. Why? The slave cylinder is the lowest point in the hydraulic linkage, so most of the rust and sediment that has been accumulating over the years ends up in the slave cylinder. Common sense tells you this will eventually cause problems, so replacing the slave cylinder now will give your customer many more miles of trouble-free driving. At the very least, you should flush the hydraulics and refill the system with fresh fluid."