Rep Power: 254

hello everyone. searched and couldnt find anything. i was wondering what it would take for me to relocate my ABS unit farther into the engine bay; probably by the intake manifold. reason why i would like to is because if the abs unit wasnt in its place i would have a lot more routing options for some new charge pipes i wanted to make. thanks.

 
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i believe it has to be mounted a certain way to work properly. you cant just move it somewhere else without considering a bunch of factors.

 
Rep Power: 327

You may be correct but i doubt its mounting position matters. Unless your mounting it on top of the exhaust manifold. All thou i would try to oreient it so it still sits with the top UP

 
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and thats not even considering all the work to move the connecting harnesses and lines, if even possible.

 
Rep Power: 248

Which part of the system are you talking about, exactly?

 
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the ABS unit. the actual box that controls the ABS. right by the driver side motor mount. so this seems alot harder than expected. darn =|. would i just get a torch to heat up the lines and bend the lines to where i want em to go?

 
Rep Power: 318

/\/\ doing that you risk pinching the lines, since they are metal tubes...pinch a tube, messes up that line, which messes up your abs which messes up your cars braking...

relocating ABS unit / messing with the lines = NOT WORTH THE RISK

 
Rep Power: 254

or what would it take to just delete my ABS completely?

 
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I'm not sure, exactly, but I'd imagine the more complicated part would be the electronic rather than mechanical. Taking parts off isn't hard.

 
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electronically it should be easy. all it would do is trip the ABS light correct? the hard part would be to plug up the brake lines.

 
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Maybe you're right. I'd be worried about the ECU freaking out. I'd imagine it'd throw more than a little error light if the entire system's missing, but maybe that's just me.

If you're worried about the brake lines, there's a real simple fix to that. Or at least it seems simple. In lieu of plugging up the existing lines, what about replacing them with lines from an LX? Shouldn't be too expensive if you go to a pick-your-parts yard. A little research might be in order to see exactly what you'll need, but it's possible.

 
Rep Power: 424

Given that everyone else figured out how to run charge pipes without moving it, i see this as utterly pointless. Anyways, its not worth moving it. Just yank the block out and run new lines directly from the prop valve to each wheel. Get the service manual, look at the diagrams and run lines accordingly.

 
Rep Power: 327

just buy the dx non abs system and switch it. thats it. already been done by a member on here.

 
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/\/\ or lx....

 
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removing the abs won't mess up the ECU it will just leave the abs light and Brake light on I know cause mine is burned out I can actually stop faster and better without the abs on. Every once in a while the motor in the abs modulator bumps over and I have abs for a little bit and I can't stand it cause the abs wants to kick in too soon and it actually makes my stopping distance longer. It's impossible to drive in the snow with abs it's too sensitive I can't actually get a grip on my rotors in the snow when it did work.

before mine burned out I was going to wire in a kill switch just for the abs.

 
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i love my abs


but i can agree it does "kick in" way too soon

 
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i hate the abs. i feel like i have way more control without abs. once you start sliding and if you have abs your done! so using a dx switch? didnt know there was a switch lol. even if i did use the dx switch the abs unit will still be there. hhhmm.

 
Rep Power: 812

i hate it lol. longer stop distance and annoying shaking and dimming light due to it sucking tons of power. i guess you can just remove the abs fuse and it wont work anymore.

 
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*ahem*


i already deleted my abs...i have an ex.....no codes thrown off or anything. all you have to do is get these parts:

02 dx prop valve
02 dx front brake lines from prop to caliper lines

and thats about it......oh mine looks kinda different cuz i have the s2k master in there. any of questions let me know

 
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what exactly do u need cuz i pm'ed u while back and u told me.

"so you have to get the brake lines from the 02 civic dx(the 2 lines from the master to the prop, and the 2 front brake lines from the prop to the caliper line."

u say first brake lines from prop to caliper. in the pm u say from the master to the prop. which is it cuz i plan to do this when i get my tax relief check soon. can u clear that up for me. thanks man

 
Rep Power: 254

nice one fobster . yeah can you clarify that?! i was plannin on doin it too. trying to wire tuck my engine bay too including the ABS. never seen a tucked 7th gen d17 engine bay for some reason. maybe il be the first? im sure im not though lol.

anddd fobster... where is your radiator?! lol

 
Rep Power: 294

sorry that was an old pic...car is up and running smooth right now. ill take updated pics soon.

but let me clarify on this......

you just need the hard lines from the prop to the calipers rubber lines. and then the dx prop....and also the 2 hard lines fro mthe master to the prop cuz on a lx and up the hard lines from the master go straight to the abs module. on the dx the 2 hard lines from the master to the prop, goes straight from the master to the prop. is that confusing? if so lemme know.

and my engine wire tuck will soon happen. i just finished the fuse box relocate and that was alot of wiring for me so ill be taking a little break from wiring for a little bit.

 
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^^ i did my fuse box relocate too. wire tuckin is a biatch but the outcome is really satisfying.. that is kind of confusing btw. lol..

btw engine bay looks clean without a/c and p/s.

 
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now since i have the engine out and everyhting im gunna relocate sooo much crap THANK YOU FOR REMINDING ME the fuse box is going somewhere maybe trunk or even the glove box lol WOOO project tommorow

 
Rep Power: 254

a tip i got was to get duct tape/painters tape and to label them when you cut em. say you cut one wire and you label both ends with a number 1 or something. makes it much easier rather than wasting time searching for the correct colors etc. good luck!

 
Rep Power: 327

thanks. makes sense now. =) cant wait to do this. i wanted finished my kswap and always wanted my swap to look like yours with the fuse box out and the abs gone. looks sooooo much better and cleaner. only thing you need to do is remove the heater core on the firewall and loop the coolant hose. i plan to do that as well. i want my bay empty lol

 
Rep Power: 294

^^ nope i at least want the heater for the winter....its gonna be kinda tough now without the ac during some hot days here in the bay especially when i go to socal with this car.....so yea

oh no p/s is no problem been driving it for a couple days like this and its not too bad...

 
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hhmmm good info.. planning on doing this soon...is there a DIY for eps?

 
Rep Power: 294

^^ i will soon be doing this got everything i need...ill post it up later maybe after i come back from the eibach meet in socal.