Rep Power: 266

I honestly don't know what I'm doing, and the honda shop manual/hane's manual aren't making things clear. I'm trying to replace the outer boot on both axles.

My first problem is that after removing the spindle nut and rotor, there is still no evident way that I can get to the boot and slip it off. The 4 threaded prongs that the wheel mounts on is still in the way, with no evident way to remove it. Also, the upper control arm, which the caliper attaches to, is blocking the way.

The manual says I need to remove the damper fork, but there's a freaking shock absorber attached. Don't I have to secure that?? I'm worried there's a bunch of tension somewhere in the assembly, and I'm scared to remove any bolts.

Another example is the castle nut which holds the ball joint. I have a ball joint remover, but what happens after I remove it? Will the lower control arm fly downward due to tension? Should I stick the car jack under the arm?

Also, am I really supposed to remove the whole axle, even though I just need to get to the outer boot?

 
Rep Power: 266

Alright let me simplify. Do I have to secure the spring/shock absorber BEFORE I remove the damper fork? Or is there no tension on it?

 
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it's cheaper just to replace the whole drive shaft with the amount of time you'll be spending under the car. you can get them at advance autoparts or autozones. you'll just trade them your old drive shaft. the outer boot wears faster and eventually the inner boot.
you have to remove the damper fork in order to pull the shaft away from the trans., drain the trans. fluid first of course.
the 4 threaded prongs(HUB) that you mentioned is attached to the lower arm of the suspension this is the part where you will use the ball joint remover, make sure you apply grease on the tool to protect the rubber of the joint. once you separated the ball joint from the lower arm you can now pull the wheel hub you might need a rubber mallet to give it a nudge. then finally you can remove the shaft. the spindle nut that you removed is attaced to the shaft.
don't worry about the shock absorber, the damper fork has a flanged bolt you losen it and you will only remove the lower part.
once you remove the castle nut protect the bolt with hex nut to protect the thread, the hex nut should be flushed out of the ball joint pin head, because of the compressive pressure of the remover. you will feel and hear a snap, that means it's lose and ready to be removed.

 
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what kind of manual do you have, is it the green service manual 2-in thick?

 
Rep Power: 249

+1. truth!

 
Rep Power: 266

Well, damn, I might replace the whole thing then, but I wonder how much it's going to cost. I found a boot kit at Napa for 9$ each. Before going to Napa I called honda to see how much their kits are going for. The guy said they go for 35$ (for both boots I imagine) but they were out. He was nice enough to tell me that they buy their kits from Napa! That's like a 14 dollar inflation, while the customer thinks he's getting some special Honda kit. Talk about dishonest.

Another problem I might have in the future is in regards to the ball joint remover. Mine is a one piece similar to a pitchfork, except it has 2 prongs, and is ramped. You hammer it. (edit: It's called a pickle fork) I might be able to take off the ball joint, but can I put it back on? Seems that the typical ball joint remover allows you to do both. I heard Kragen has the better one, is that true?

 
Rep Power: 266

Black cover, 96-98 civic. But it's not a real book, it's in .pdf format. Honestly it's fairly specific, I just didn't feel confident with that huge coil/shock absorber attached.

 
Rep Power: 266

I read in my hanes manual that there are 2-piece boots that don't require removal of the trans axle. Any thoughts on these?

 
Rep Power: 251

Don't forget to do an alignment after you repalce the shafts.

 
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I use Haynes Honda civic/Integra1996-1998 in combination with civic service manual. I got it from helm inc. 8 yrs ago for 70$

 
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a lot of people use the fork even the dealers because it's faster to use. you can use a jack to push it up if you want

 
Rep Power: 266

Thanks archie.

Yeah ummm, I'm not the type of guy who doesn't like to tackle complex maintenance, but I am the type of guy who gives up when a lot of pounding/force is needed to get the job done. I was not having fun with that ball joint, and I never got it loose, (thank God) at which point my dad comes up to me and says that I can get a 2-piece boot kit. It did mention that in the Hanes manual, but I shrugged it off. Well, the one I got from Autozone is 1 piece with a single opening. It uses 6 screws, comes with grease and harnesses, but did not come with any type of sealant, so I used liquid gasket. I pray this Chines thing holds the grease in. I added a hose clamp next to the small harness too, because the small one tends to leak over time. The large harness never seems to develop a leak.


Seriously, you better be determined to get that axle off, and you better know what you're doing. I'll take it to the shop when I get new axles. What's the average cost btw?

 
Rep Power: 343

yea its not worth it like archie said. those books tell you how to do everything diy. but its so much easier to do the whole axle. i just took my axles out in my 4th gen yesterday and i didnt even think twice it was so simple... just yank and replace. i wouldnt even think of rebuilding...