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Old Jun 11, 2006
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pkh3 problems

I just installed a pkh3 immobilizer bypass unit in my car along with a push button ignition that I've had in there for a while. I have an 8-gauge wire, fused, coming from the battery to a switch which gives power to all 3 accessories at once (with one switch). I have the pkh3 programmed, but apparently there's no switch for it, its always active or something. So, here's the problem:

The switch activates the accessories just fine with no key. Everything works, and the little green key flashes next to the tachometer (it doesnt normally do that; its on solid for a second then turns off). However, the car will not start using the switch and the push-button. I can still hand-crank it just fine, and if I turn the key to on and use the push-button, it works fine like it always has. It sounds to me like a problem with the immobilizer bypass, and I've searched a ton on both this website and google and really can't find anything relating to troubleshooting.

Personally, I think that there has to be a switch for the pkh3 to tell it to trasmit the recorded signal of the key, and the blinking key is saying that no key is detected, but nowhere in the instructions or in what I have been able to find online have I been able to find any reference to any switch. Thanks in advance.



update:

another thing: when I programmed the pkh3, the after I turned the key to ON, the LED on the bypass unit started blinking, and kept blinking. I waited for like a minute thinking maybe it would go off and that was my cue to remove the jumper and turn the car off, but it kept blinking. Maybe I didn't get it programmed, and I have to let it sit there longer?

Last edited by jwalker87; Jun 11, 2006 at 10:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old Jun 11, 2006
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pkh3 is a piece of ****. i hated using that thing. IF you hooked up all your wires normally, leave the jumper in the programming position. turn the ignition on, the led should blink fast. turn the ignition off then back on, the led should blink slower. this means it has programmed. move the jumper to the operating position.

i dont see why you need this for push button starting, you have to put your key in to unlock the wheel anyways...so why not just let the key do it's thing and just use the button for starting?
Old Jun 12, 2006
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im planning on putting an alarm with a remote starter in sometime in the future, so I'm going ahead and doing this part of it now. So, just to clarify, there's no switch for it, its always on or something? I'll try reprogramming it and see if it blinks slower the second time.
Old Jun 12, 2006
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it comes on with a negative pulse during start.

i wouldnt suggest leaving it on all the time, because if you do youre essentially eliminating your immobilizer.
Old Jun 12, 2006
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ok, so the brown wire that is connected to the alarm if you have one should be grounded, or hooked to a switch to that I flip on to ground it when I start the car, since I don't have an aftermarket alarm?

thanks skipbarber! I wired up that brown wire to a switch, then the switch to a body panel, and now it works perfectly! I also hid the switch so that the anti-theft ability of the immobilizer system is not compromised.

Last edited by jwalker87; Jun 12, 2006 at 03:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old Jun 13, 2006
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i wouldve taken it a step further and used a relay so that the pkh3 only comes on when you push your start button.
Old Jun 14, 2006
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that doesnt fit the startup sequence. The pkh3 has to be activated before any off the accesory switches are turned on. So its immobilizer, then accessories, then push-to-start. I also have a hidden switch to deactivate the accessory switches as well as the switch to turn off the pkh3, so if I'm going to be parked anywhere for a while I can practically undo all the modification I've done from a security standpoint.
Old Jun 15, 2006
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whatever works for you.
 
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