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how important are our two little screws that hold the rotor onto the wheel hub? I bought a used assembly and cannot thread the little screws all the way in, the threads are shotty on the assembly. When we tighten up our lugs, the rotor stays in place anyways, but it's a safety thing w/ me and I think I'm gonna buy shorter threaded screws or just cut down the ones I've got. I can thread them in like 1/4 of the way. Thanks.....

 
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do most aftermarket rotors even have the 2 holes for those tiny screws ?

 
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They're useless. only there to hold the rotor to the hub while you wrestle the caliper back on. The wheel holds the rotor in place.

 
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^ I just replied to your PM about rubbing wheels.....anyways, yeah, that's what I though, but the lugs are basically holding the rotor in place, right? I was just wondering if the lugs happened to loosen up, would the rotor wobble as well? or when I change out wheels, the rotor will flop around until they're tightened? sorry for beating this to death, I just like to have things the way they should be - D

 
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i throw those screws away DAILY!

 
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once you torque the wheels on, the rotor presses to the hub (then rusts to it when it rains), it really move at all, and the distance between the brake pads in the caliper is such that the rotor can't move out.
That being said, the wheels should be tight, should they come loose enough that you know, the wheel is still pressing on the hub with the rotor sandwiched in between, and not on the outer edge of the rotor where you could dislodge it.

 
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thanks

 
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can anyone give me the specs/size of those screws?

I just attempted to change my rotors today and everything went smooth till I got to those things. WHO THE THOUGHT TO USE PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS THERE??? worst fastener type ever! the head strips so easy (yes I did use a number 3 phillips head)

Anyway I need the specs so I know how to drill them out without damaging the hub. (unless someone has a magic way of grabbing the end of a stripped phillips head)

Slightly off topic but how thick are the oem pads when new? at 32k mine are about a quarter inch thick and I'm trying to figure out how much life is left in them.

Thanks

 
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I believe someone figured out the screw designation was M6.

 
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Start with a 3/32 or so bit and step it out to 1/4. All you gotta do is drill the head off, then yank the rotor out and drill/grind the stubs flush.

 
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you should use an impact screwdriver aslo next time you're doing them, works like a charm

 
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Yes looking in to this now! Hope it works because I would rather not drill.
If I get the screw/s out cleanly I will verify that threading (M6) and see if I can find some torx drive replacements in loverly McMaster-Carr.

Thanks for the responses!

 
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Impact screwdriver got 3 out fo 4 loose like magic. The 4th I knew wasn't comeing loose as soon as I saw it all fuzzy with rust and corrosion. I tried anyway and a few hits later it didn't just strip the drive slot, it cleanly sheared all 4 hooks off. Drilled its head out.
coated the screws that came out of one hub with hi-temp caliper grease and put them back in, though I will probably toss them next time the wheels come off because there are none on the other side.
And as far as I can tell they don't make M6x10mm flatheads in anything other than phillips and slot drive so wtf is up with that?
Anyway new rotors are nice! I had forgotton what smooth brakeing felt like.

 
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it's useless.

from what i heard, those screws were used during the manufacture line to hold the rotors...

 
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You can knock loose seized screws by using a drift punch along the edge of the screw.