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I have an 01 lx with the EX head swap, I am wondering which is the best ECU to use? Would just the stock EX ECU be fine? Or is there an aftermarket ECU that would be better since I am having to purchase the EX ECU anyway? Thanks for the help

 
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There's some way to use a VAFC II to control the VTEC without having to swap the ECU. I don;t know it, but it may be posted in the swaps forum.

 
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correct but its easier to just use the EX ecu. there is no aftermarket unless you wanna pay $1k+ for AEM EMS.

 
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I would use a piggy-back on the LX ECU. With the lower compression of the LX short block, the EX ECU may run rich.

 
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ok, I purchased a EX ECU, So now I think Im going ahead and going with the AEM EMS. Any thoughts on weather the 1030 is better than the 1070 other than a\c and temp. and where to get one at a good price.

 
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you're getting an AEM EMS for a headswap? thats not necassary. an emanage or vafc with the lx ecu will work fine. better yet just use the EX ecu that you just bought. I do believe you will have to get your key flashed with the new ecu in order for it to start. AEM EMS should only be used for a true ALL MOTOR car or a true FORCED INDUCTION car. "simple" modded cars do not apply unless you have an extra $1000-$1500 that you won't miss.

 
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Well I also have a crower stage 2 cam, springs, retainers, and over sized valves. The head is getting a pnp job to accomedate the oversize valves. And by the diy i read on here people are having trouble with tuning the stage 2 cams without a EMS. So again the point of this, since I know I need one is to find out if there is a diff, between the 1030 and 1070 AEM EMS other than a/c and temp control??

 
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i have I/H/E/ pnp head, milled, race valves, cam gear. I didn't need any tuning in fact the a/f ratio was pretty close to ideal. Adjusting the cam gear just killed my start idle so I left it stock. An EMS on a d17 should only be used for boost. The few members here with a good all motor setup say the vafc is fine.
If you have a stage II cam (which I can't understand why), your car is gonna have a terrible idle, and after tuning you're gonna have no power before 4k rpms. cams shift power way up in the rpms. It might need tuning, but that can be done with vafc and cam gear for sure.

 
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what makes the stage2 cam so bad? it is a na cam I dont plan on boosting the car. would it be better with that setup to go with a stage one? I am getting my info from here. I was reading about how much people were having problems with the stage2 cams. but none of them had good tuning. what is your opinion. I am trying to get as much out of the d17a2 as i can without boosting, or spraying.