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Hi guys, below is the DIY from Bot, since so many people said it's not secure to do so or need to connect it to the ecu or need to buy the wideband sensor and the reading is not accurate. so here is my question ...
1. Is it true what GearBox said that it will screw up my o2 sensor by doing this?
2. Are there anybody out there who done this DIY from bot and have or haven't had any problem yet?
3. After doing the DIY from Bot, is it reading accurately?
4. What brand are good for this and where to get it please let me know with the link for it...

Thank you so much guys hope I can get the answer.

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Post Air/Fuel Gauge Install
Open the hood. Look straight down the exhaust manifold. There is a plug with a bunch of wires going to it just under the header. Thats your O2 sensor. Trace the wires back to the grey connector plug near the engine block (over on the right side, under the radiator hose). Slide back the wire shroud so you can see the wires (4 of them). Put a tap splice on the BLACK wire between the O2 sensor and the connector.
Run the wire inside the car. I recommend you not run the wire attached to the gauge through into the engine bay. It won't reach and it'll mean you'll have to splice the wires together in the engine bay. You'll be better off joining them inside the car so you minimize the exposed wire. Attach the wire you spliced into the O2 sensor to the purple wire on the back of the gauge. You need to find 12V and Ground. The Yellow/Green stripe wire that goes to the Cig lighter is 12 V, there is a screw behind the lower dash panel (w/ the lighter in it) that is a ground post, or you can run a ground wire in from the engine block (I did this). Hook up power and ground to their respective wires and thats it.
The gauge will oscillate back and forth between rich and lean. Don't expect it to stay in one place. It will completely disappear if you're moving and you take your foot off the gas (good old ULEV in action), and don't be surprised if it favors the lean side rather than rich (ULEV again). It should go rich if you floor it.

 
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i recommend wideband only, anything else is just a light show!

 
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^^^ i second that. Unless you want some pretty annoying gauge on your dash don't do it. If you want something that will truly read your A/F ratio then get a wide band.

 
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i have a narrow band in my car, just didnt hook up the tap. lights up and all, but the led just stays on the boarder of stoich/lean. its just there to take up space and look "cool".

 
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I rarely even notice my wideband anymore with the digital display above the steering wheel mounted on the column. Maybe one time a week ill get on it and watch the boost/AFR to make sure its all still good but it sure was a life saver when tunning!

 
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i have mine mounted under the radio. i don't pay attention to it too much unless i'm tuning. i'd like to move it where you have yours it would help with glare alot too.

 
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Ive got a cheap autometer A/F gauge (narrowband). But only to fill the other pod hole. I needed a voltage gauge and the gauge cluster trim pods have 2 holes so... the rest is history

 
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thanks for your information guys ... i will try to look for wide band but damn that thing is cost a lot .... fiuh ... will see if i can get some money for it lol

 
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if you really want one, but don't have money for the wideband, yet still want it to be useful and not damage anything, then you can buy a "modified" full throttle autometer gauge and hook it up to a separate o2 sensor (which you'll have to get a new bung made for in the exhaust.

i can't find it, but there's a website that sells modified autometer gauges so that the reading at full throttle will be accurate. Something about changing the voltage increments.