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<< BAK - sulfer smell good to you???? [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG] >>



I fill my tank with medical grade. its only 75 cents more per LB, but i can sell it for 3 bucks a baloon to dumbass high school kids at partys and make 2000X my money back. That plus you can run your N20 lines without the restrictive filters which boosts line PSI and max flow rate.

 
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can some one please make this stickyy?? if it has not already been done

becuase as of right now.. this is the only way the D17 can make any real power... swapps... turbos... superchargers.. bahh.. still a ways off...

 
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i hope you dont say you wrote this your self, or anything. this post was taken from Club si, in the N20 forum. LAME

 
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If you would've read the whole thread, you would've found out where it was copied from

 
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Joe,
In the post you talked a great deal about the NOS and Zex kits which is great. Since you seem to have a good deal of knowledge about nitrous setups what do you think about the Nitrous Express kits that are available. I've heard from many sources that it is a great kit for our cars and it was the one I was considering getting down the road. How would you rate it among the other kits that are available.
-Numinous

 
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the venom 2000 is waaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy overpriced. If you want a nice kit go with the NX wet kit. They even have pics of one installed on the 7thgen civic

 
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NEX is definately the way to go..

 
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It would probably help out alot. You'll be putting more air and fuel into your engine and having a more efficient way of removing all this extra stuff will be beneficial.
-Numinous

 
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this is really some good info on the newbies to ppl that havent know alot about nitrouse like me, i really learn alot, thanks for the info joe!

 
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just because someone is new doesn't meant they don't know about cars man. come on!

 
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SCREW THAT I AINT READIN IT!!!

 
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ditto

 
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NX and NOS are about = IMO.

 
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today was the first day i actually read the whole post and after finishing i was like "dam*" joe, you know your stuff.

 
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anyone know if the NX incognito kit works?
NX incognito kit

 
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Ok...I dont want to be mean but not all of that is too correct.
WET - Simply means you spray fuel and N2O
DRY - Is ONLY N2O

When you said wet sprays fuel to MATCH N2O thats wrong. Different Jets allow different amounts of fuel and N2O
When you said DRY is when vacume is adjusts fuel pressure to have the injectors spray acoordingly... Maybe thats how Zex works but I damn now NOS doesnt do that, and also that would be controlled by the comoputer.

The correct size shot.... For a car with NO internal mods... It is ONLY RECOMMENDED to spray 1/3 of the cars STOCK HP
I.E. a reg. civic with 115 HP STOCK should only spray a 38 or 39 HP shot... But lets get real 40 definately wont hurt... but yes you can easily run 40,45,50,55 stock.

What is recommended to use with N2O...
New Clutch....Kiss It... Stock clutch is 100% fine for 40-55 shot.
Fuel Pressure regulator....Doesnt do **** (am I allowed to say that)
Get an Air/Fuel meter and then decide wether fuel pressure needs to be changed, I garuntee you wont need to.

Now whether to go DRY or WET. Dont ever recommend DRY, you are correct that DRY is OK for small shots but if you ever wanna go higher, you are gonna WANT WET in fear of leaning out.

Maybe you can explain why with a wet kit all of a sudden you need a fuel pump and new motor mounts...
WET is SAFER and better for your car.
You wont need a fuel pump unless your car cant pump enough fuel, that would require a big shot of N2O.
And Motor Mounts...... ummm NO!
WASTE of $$$$$$$. if you are only spray these shots under 100.

PLUGS though... PLATNUMS are a "NO, NO"
You want coppers, get some NGK's people's. After you use N2O a while you will understand alot...
And you do not need to adjust your timing... plus you didnt make it clear what timing
CAM, IGNITION, CRANK ?????????
But NO timing adjustment will be needed...
CAMS... If you bought cams and are deciding to use Nitrous, you might wanna ask someone if its ok to spray on those cams.
Many times when people buy cams, you are asked if you are under any type of boost. B/C you get SPECIFIC CAMS for your application...
i.e under Nitrous, Turbo (spec PSI) and same for Supercharged cars.

Are any other mods recommended with Nitrous again... If you use Nitrous and you have a header you might find something interesting.
Go to a dyno... Dyno the following...
STOCK
WITH HEADER (aftermarket)
N2O with STOCK exhuast manifold (header)
N2O with Aftermarket Header

you can notice that under N2O the header makes a bigger differnce.
let me explain.
Say over stock the header gives you 20 to the wheels
Now Stock header with N20 you get 50 HP on a 50shot
You'd think that Header and N2O you will gain 70HP
But with both working together you will actually see a bigger gain such as 80 or 85.
If you want me to explain, please e-mail me but its a LONG explaination why.

Your not exactly correct on where to place the nozzle...
TOO close to the throttle body can be not to your like'n. You want the nozzle to be 4" away from the T.B. You may give or take an inch at most. There is another long explanation for this too, please feel free to e-mail, but im just stating facts.

JOEB16 good job on explaining the diff between many of the kits and Jets for each shot.
Sorry im pickin on ya for some of the other stuff. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/demon.gif[/IMG]

I go to school in Orlando so any locals wanna meet im down. This Fri and Sat are very good, i live @ UCF [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-puke.gif[/IMG] but you can IM me on AOL on DJ CYCLONE 1969. Hope to see some quick N2O civics soon.

 
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is it a good deal to get NX nitrous with bottle heater,purge,and all the complet kit install for 800 dollas?!?!?......
im i getting hipped off or not?!? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

 
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fastlegend, very good explanation...cnat wait to see wat joe have to say

 
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so from ur point of view legend, header makes a big difference

 
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I never said otherwise.

Yes, but you MATCH the fuel jet size according the to N20 jet size. I don’t see how the terminology is wrong. Otherwise you are just arguing semantics.

You are half right sir, as am I. However MY set up consists of the former method, not latter. FROM THE NOS NITROUS WEB PAGE:
These are three basic types of nitrous systems: dry, wet, and direct port. The most misunderstood is the "dry" type of system. A "dry" nitrous system simply means that the fuel required to make additional power with nitrous will be introduced through the fuel injectors (remember, fuel makes power, nitrous simply lets you burn more of it). This keeps the upper intake dry of fuel. We accomplish this by two methods. First, is to increase the pressure to the injectors by applying nitrous pressure from the solenoid assembly when the system is activated. This causes an increase in fuel flow just like turning up the pressure on your garden hose from 1/2 to full. The second way we can add the required fuel is to increase the time the fuel injector stays on. This is accomplished by changing what the computer sees, basically tricking the computer into adding the required fuel. In either case, once the fuel has been added, the nitrous can be introduced to burn the supplemental fuel and generate additional power.

Thats a nice general rule of thumb, but not that accurate when you get specific on a make and model. For example, by B16A2 can safely run an 80 shot w/ stock internals if the proper measures are taken. Hell if all I want to do is add a block guard 100 isnt out of the question.

I don’t know too many people running under a 50 shot. And with a 50 shot, and Hondas shitty clutches you are going to burn through yours. Hell, my stock clutch only lasted 2 months after I put in a 50 shot. And that’s just 4 track days at the drag strip. As for an FPR, that’s a safety feature. Also, your average auto meter AF gauge is worthless but for measuring the extremes. No way can anyone do tuning with one. You will have to invest at least 2 to 300 dollars on a high end gauge. Better to do it on a dyno.

I dont disagree... except for the fact that running a wet kit with a smaller shot, wet kits tend to over enrich the mixture w/o proper tuning (and who wants that if you are just running a small shot? It should be plug and play. Nuf said.). ANd while runing rich is better then runnign lean, doing it constantly every time you spray can cause premature wear of the piston rings/seals, plug the cat or in extreem cases cause detonation. This is even more so the case in FI and N20 applications due to the aded internal stress.

Because, if the recommendations are followed, you will be needing the fuel pump to be running a 75+ shot safely. Its not that because its a wet kit you need the pump, its because at the power levels in which one would NEED a wet kit you would also like to get an upgraded pump for peace of mind. Honda (especially civic) fuel pumps are notorious for being underpowered.
Case in point:
My Si has to turn 3-4 times when starting with under 1/4 a tank of gas. Why? Crappy fuel pump. What fixed it? Im sure you can guess.

There is a difference between MOTOR MOUNTS and MOTOR MOUNT INSERTS. For the 30 dollars I spent on my inserts from summitracing.com, Id say they are the best bang for the buck value out of all my mods. Hell I reccomend that, if available for your car, EVERYONE with a FWD car interested in performance pick these up.
Again, case in point:
Id get wheel hop spinning my tires on wet streets in stock form. Added 30 dollar mount inserts, can now drop clutch @ 8K RPM with nothing but wheel spin.

Depends on your definition of "big" now doesnt it? Also, see above.

I already said that about the plugs many times over in many different threads in many different forums. Platnum and Iridium plugs SUCK for N20 applications.
As for the rest:
Updated for clarification

Its okay to spray nitrous on pretty much any cam that doesnt create large amounts of overlap. And since MOST people dont go out and buy super hardcore cam profiles for their street civic like Jun stage IIIs or Toda "Killer" series, its information thats not needed. Also, again, clarified and updated.

Yes, generally you select your cam profile depending on your modifications, N20 being one of them. However it is NOT the same as deciding which profile under FI conditions. With a turbo or blower they are (almost) ALWAYS under boost of some sort. Nitrous applications need to take into consideration that they WONT be using the N20 98% of the time in your typical street driven daily driver.

Duh.

Simple answer: N20 + More fuel = more crap to exhale. Header, and exhaust help breathing. The more N20 and fuel the more power gained from the larger diameter/freer flowing exhaust rought. E.G. Larger shot takes more advantage from breathing mods then a smaller one, which it self takes more advantage of the mods then no N20 at all. Same deal with a turbo. The more boost and larger the turbo the more power gained from a free-er flowing exhaust (to a point).

I don’t know what car you are referring to, but in my application (i.e. B16A2 w/ AEM CAI) the nozzle posisition is PERFECT. This has been proven correct time and time again, and I really dont care what you say about it. One random reply on the internet isn’t going to change 10 + years of collective knowledge. Perhaps w/ a different car and different intake design this isn’t the case, but I cant say because Idont have experience with those cars.


-back from the dead one more time

 
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joe if u dont mind answer couple questiosns.


1. i got intake, header, exhaust. planning to do 50shots...no more for sure. should i get wet or dry?
2. need any more prep?
3. dont spray everyday, wat do i need to check for lean? or other signs of dmg?
4. wat brand u prefer?
5. anything else i should know?

 
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1. Its singular. SHOT, not shot"s". Your car does not have a return fuel line. Get a wet kit.

2. Buy NGK-BKR7E spark plugs. You can buy them cheap @ summitracing.com. Use that EXACT part number in your search. You need 4 of them obviously, and gap them to your stock specifications. This information can be found in your owners manual. As far as other "prep", I reccomend an upgraded clutch if you dont already have one and a bottle warmer. You should also get a nitrous pressure gauge. NOS makes a good one that fits on your bottle. This can be bought at summit for under 35 bucks.

3. Although you have to spend upwards of 300 bucks on a GOOD AF gauge to do actual TUNING with, a cheap auto meter can and will let you know when you are running way too rich or way too lean. These really are the only things you need to be concerned about when trying to prevent damage. Also, check your spark plugs after running your N20. Detonation will cause small metal bits to become fused to the metal on the plug. If you cant wipe them away then probably bits of your internals being fused to the plug... which is bad. Although catching it early will save you a LOT of money, so CHECK EM! Also the color of the plugs can tell you if you are running too righ/lean, but thats more complacated and is an issue for a completly different post. Plus, id need to find pictures to post.

4. NX and NOS nitrous. Zex sucks ***. I have actually personally had problems with their equipment. Venom is too much money, and the ECU box is just another thing to screw up and go wrong.

5. Have it installed by a professional, dont abuse it, check your plugs after you spray, REPLACE the plugs after you make hard runs on the N20 (might be better to buy 8 or 12 plugs at once, i usually buy a box of 50) and you shouldnt have any problems. Oh and install the tank in your trunk. Even if bolted down correctly that thing can and will fly out of its mounts in an accident and getting hit by a flying 15+ Lb steel tank ISNT fun.

 
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Oh... ALSO about the bottle warmers...

NOS makes a kit, and you will notice its cheaper then the NX version. By far. This is because its based off of tempature while the NX version turns on and shuts off based on bottle pressure. The advantage of the NX being that you can always maintain the optimal pressure of 900 PSI, where as with the NOS tempature based heater, you might not get the optimal pressure when the amount of N20 in the tank falls below the volume needed to create 900 PSI at 85 F (which is the default tempature on the NOS kit, and no it isnt adjustable). The down side? The NX heater is 100+ more.
My solution? Buy the heater Im using. Half the price of the NX heater, but with all the features and then some (actually is more adjustable and made from better materials). Here you go.

http://www.speedshop.org/store/scrip...p?idproduct=17

 
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TheFastLegend,buddy of mine is haveing loggin issues, but would like to apologize. "I thought that he meant the kit adjust the Fuel Pressure and that, DUH the stock copmuter with adjust the fuel pressure to keep an even Air/Fuel ratio"

 
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NEX makes coilovers. Nice one.

 
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hondaguru, thx for the answering my questions...

 
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finally got this in the FAQ section. took a while cause of the terrible grammar tho.

 
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****! I should have been a MOD or something.
Last year I didnt know half as much as I know now.

 
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