Rep Power: 400

they could build the $4 into the car. it's not like honda is hurting in sales.

you're still avoiding the evidence we are providing. there is simply not enough heat transfer, as pointed out by JrFish's calculations. Yet you quote him and then go on and on about heatsoak, but ignore the fact that the difference has been pointed out. Again, if the temp of the air is only going up 1-2 degrees because of the throttle body being heated, then bypassing the heater so you remove that 1-2 degree change won't do a damn thing.

It is a false mod and won't improve horsepower.

 
Rep Power: 400

Yes and I've given you the calculations to determine how much heat kills hp. The biggest increase in temp is due to the intake manifold, not the throttle body. If it takes a 10 degree increase in temp to make a 275whp engine lose 3 horsepower, then what do you think you are gaining by removing a 1-2 degree temp change? .2 horsepower?

come on, this is just silly.

 
Rep Power: 320

If you really think that the heat from the fluid passing through is killing your hp, what do you think the heat from setting behind the engine is doing. Not to mention the TB sets right under all that intake plastic Honda puts on, this will help to hold heat from the engine in the TB.

Also, does anybody know where the fluid is being draw from? Just wondering what the actualy temp of the water entering the TB is.

 
Rep Power: 812

Okay so the point has been made that it will not increase hp and is useless to do. Now why is this causing the idle to mess up? I think the ecu measures how hot the air is going through the iac ports. If there is coolant running NEXT TO the ports, it will heat the air according to set values. Without that air, the ecu thinks the car is still warming up (fooled into thinking the coolant is cold).

I believe this because of two reasons: First, the rpms on my car were only affected at idle when the car was warming up from a cold start. Once the engine was warm and sitting still, the idle was fine. Now when driving, the rpms would go up and down only after the engine was warmed up already, meaning the coolant (or lack of in this case) was not able to keep the TB warm enough. So the ecu thought the engine was still warming up and threw in more fuel as a result of the warm up program. Any thoughts?

 
Rep Power: 400

you have it exactly right to my understanding.

 
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W0w this was fun to read guys:subscribed:

 
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dude, this topic has been dead for months..

 
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this is true, i still read through the whole things, basically it's a guy that thinks he felt something from doing this when in all reality he either:
1.) Took a heafty crap before driving after he did it
2.) Had less gas in his tank when he drove it after the mod.
3.) He drove down hill after he did the mod.
So he trys to validate his point by showing us other people that have fallen into the same 3 categories listed above; then people with degrees come into play and really prove him wrong. Then he blames it on honda not putting a $4 valve on the car cuz it would be too expensive when the f*cking Hazard Light Switch it $13.

The End.

 
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give this a rest it doesn't work.

 
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^^^^thats what i was saying

 
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i kno i was talking about everyone else

 
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ughh, post edited and erased
damn old threads .............

 
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Anzboysrfr said it best.......................
**** all you internet mechanics.

 
Rep Power: 812

okay the way i see it, no the coolant doesn't actually touch any sensors. But it does warm the air passing through the idle air port AND the IAC valve. The valve works by opening when cold and gradually closing as the air warms up. What happens when the air never warms up? the valve stays open even tho the car is warm. This could lead to idle problems and a/f ratio differences. Its not a big opening, but it sucks air in fast! I've put my fingers on it and almost had em pulled in (stronger than a vacuum cleaner). In the summer you may not notice since the tb gets warm eventually from the engine. But cold weather is a different story. Its just asking for trouble if you ask me. Honda designs this whole idle system and you guys have to mess around with it. And yes, I've dismantled the valve and seen for myself how everything works.

 
Rep Power: 812

that shiny cylinder in the back is what opens and closes. Its touching very close to where the coolant passes. I also noticed that on a cold weather start, the car has a much smoother drop in idle as it warms up since I cleaned it. You can just spray carb cleaner until all the carbon is dissolved.

 
Rep Power: 300

WOW, you dont even understand how the Idle Control Valve even works.

First off, this is not a temperature sensor that can tell how cold/warm the air is, thats the IAT's job. Some earlier hondas were equiped stock with a Fast Idle Thermal Valve, doing this mod on hondas equipped with this valve would FOR SURE mess with the idle, however, maybe due to costs or whatever, the D17 Tb does not have one.

The only thing the Idle Control Valve does is lets your car idle correctly. However, during a cold start up it will allow your car to warm FASTER by having an accelerated idle of 1200-1600, also during this time the 02 sensors are still heating up which means the car is running in open loop~ which means A/F are set at a fixed value, Therefore, not being adjusted constantly by the 02 sensors.

I told you in an eariler post, the only reason the throttle body heater is there is to prevent tje butterfly from icing up during the winter, has nothing to do with the idle control system.

http://www.v6z24.com/howto/heaterbypass
http://www.dragsource.com/tbcoolantbypass.html

 
Rep Power: 812

how do you explain why disconnecting the iac valve connector affects the idle alot more when its cold out compared to when its warm? Try it yourself if you don't believe me. I thought you said it doesn't work off temperature.