DIY: First time changing brake pads
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From: Marysville, WA
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DIY: First time changing brake pads
I know DIY for changing brake pads have already been done, I actually looked at quite a few before trying it out on my own. Sorry but I forget the names of the 7thgenners who put up the other DIYs, I know Boilermaker's was the last one I read besides the "brake and rotor DIY" in the DIY section.
Anyways, I figured I would try changing my brake pads for the first time despite people telling me it was too hard or that brakes are too dangerous to mess with. So after doing my research on the 7thgen website, I got down to business.
1) First, I took a gander at my scuffed up rims and pondered whether I should sell them and get some new wheels. Then I jacked up the car and took off the wheel.
2) Second, I laid out the tools I was going to use (from left to right):
- Vise-grip (for pushing the piston in)
- 12mm socket wrench
- adjustable wrench (used it to hold a washer while taking off a bolt)
3) Turn the wheel to the opposite side you are working on for better access to the bolt you have to remove. I sprayed the bolt circled in blue with a little Liquid Wrench (don't know if it was really necessary because it came off easy). Held the squarish washer with an adjustable wrench because it was turning along with the bolt. Notice my handy little flashlight (optional).
4) After taking off that one lower bolt, you can swiftly pivot the caliper up and out of the way. Now you can see the worn pads on the inside. Wiggle off the outer pad (the one nearer to you) and take off the shim. Also remove the inner pad (the one that has a little handle on the bottom) as well as the retainer clips (don't know if this is extremely necessary.
5) After getting everything off, time to do some cleaning and greasing:
- use brake cleaner to clean off the rotor and the caliper
- grease the part of the retainer clips that will mount to the caliper
- grease both sides of the shim
- grease the back of the brake pad
I'm getting new rotors sometime soon, so I didnt worry much about rotor resurfacing or machining. Just check it for cracks and rust.
6) Wow, it's about damn time I change out my brakes. Been riding on these for 4 years and nearly at the point of metal on metal action.
7) Push in the piston with a vise-grip or c-clamp and make sure the brake fluid doesnt overflow. The piston will stay in place as you push it in.
8) Pop on the new pads and make sure no grease is on the rotor. Screw the bolt back on and you're nearly good to go. After that, bleed the brakes and go out for some test braking.
** I'm not saying this is the official or perfect way to do it but it worked for me. All in all about 1 hr. **
Anyways, I figured I would try changing my brake pads for the first time despite people telling me it was too hard or that brakes are too dangerous to mess with. So after doing my research on the 7thgen website, I got down to business.
1) First, I took a gander at my scuffed up rims and pondered whether I should sell them and get some new wheels. Then I jacked up the car and took off the wheel.
2) Second, I laid out the tools I was going to use (from left to right):
- Vise-grip (for pushing the piston in)
- 12mm socket wrench
- adjustable wrench (used it to hold a washer while taking off a bolt)
3) Turn the wheel to the opposite side you are working on for better access to the bolt you have to remove. I sprayed the bolt circled in blue with a little Liquid Wrench (don't know if it was really necessary because it came off easy). Held the squarish washer with an adjustable wrench because it was turning along with the bolt. Notice my handy little flashlight (optional).
4) After taking off that one lower bolt, you can swiftly pivot the caliper up and out of the way. Now you can see the worn pads on the inside. Wiggle off the outer pad (the one nearer to you) and take off the shim. Also remove the inner pad (the one that has a little handle on the bottom) as well as the retainer clips (don't know if this is extremely necessary.
5) After getting everything off, time to do some cleaning and greasing:
- use brake cleaner to clean off the rotor and the caliper
- grease the part of the retainer clips that will mount to the caliper
- grease both sides of the shim
- grease the back of the brake pad
I'm getting new rotors sometime soon, so I didnt worry much about rotor resurfacing or machining. Just check it for cracks and rust.
6) Wow, it's about damn time I change out my brakes. Been riding on these for 4 years and nearly at the point of metal on metal action.
7) Push in the piston with a vise-grip or c-clamp and make sure the brake fluid doesnt overflow. The piston will stay in place as you push it in.
8) Pop on the new pads and make sure no grease is on the rotor. Screw the bolt back on and you're nearly good to go. After that, bleed the brakes and go out for some test braking.
** I'm not saying this is the official or perfect way to do it but it worked for me. All in all about 1 hr. **
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From: , Other, ZEBRA
Rep Power: 0 Pushing the fluid back to the master cylinder is bad especially for those who have ABS. You should use a vise grip plier and clamp down the brake line to prevent deposits from pushing back to the master cylinder.
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From: Rockville, MD
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Originally Posted by izmaxx
Jackmunch, what happened to riceteam?
I'm the bigger ricer for not having a drop or an exhaust. Just a rusty old muffler tip from autozone. Yaheard?
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Rockville, Maryland
Rep Power: 331 wow, you need some fresh brake fluid daddio. I don't know if it makes a difference, but when i change my pads, i take the caliper off the rotor competely, you left the carrier on there. Like I said, dunno if it makes a difference.
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From: Marysville, WA
Rep Power: 309 Yeah I noticed that some people take the caliper off completely but I took the lazier approach. I bled the brakes but didnt totally replace the fluid. Trying to find some of this super blue stuff everybody is talking about.
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From: Boise, Idaho
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Originally Posted by HappyGilmore
Pushing the fluid back to the master cylinder is bad especially for those who have ABS. You should use a vise grip plier and clamp down the brake line to prevent deposits from pushing back to the master cylinder.
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