D17 N/a
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D17 N/a
Lets keep it real.Everybody says that the d17 is worthless any boltons=NO HP.I never seen our car dynoed with boltons.Just peoples opinions saying dont do it youre wasting money.But in reality if u get pulleys intake exuast headers vtec controller.that the best i can get is if im lucky is 5 hp.lets go a little futher if i get head work with all these bolt ons its still worthless
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there are dynos posted out there on threads showing very low gain. i think one showed a hp loss actualy.
im not sure how much more with pnp i think gearbox or someone dynoed without a turbo but with a pnp and actualy lost hp?
im not sure how much more with pnp i think gearbox or someone dynoed without a turbo but with a pnp and actualy lost hp?
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Well...I don't know much about our D17 not getting gain from bolt-on but I just installed a AEM C/A/I , HP header w/ high flow cat and a HP cat-back and now I'm smoking my friends 2002 EX, my car its a 03 LX, he used to beat me for about 1/4 of car and now I beat him for about the same 1/4....thats without nitrous......Now with these mods and nitrous its real good u can feel the difference oviously breaths better! 
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Originally Posted by DJ_NILOCIVIC03
Well...I don't know much about our D17 not getting gain from bolt-on but I just installed a AEM C/A/I , HP header w/ high flow cat and a HP cat-back and now I'm smoking my friends 2002 EX, my car its a 03 LX, he used to beat me for about 1/4 of car and now I beat him for about the same 1/4....thats without nitrous......Now with these mods and nitrous its real good u can feel the difference oviously breaths better!
Waste of money man...
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Originally Posted by DJ_NILOCIVIC03
Well...I don't know much about our D17 not getting gain from bolt-on but I just installed a AEM C/A/I , HP header w/ high flow cat and a HP cat-back and now I'm smoking my friends 2002 EX, my car its a 03 LX, he used to beat me for about 1/4 of car and now I beat him for about the same 1/4....thats without nitrous......Now with these mods and nitrous its real good u can feel the difference oviously breaths better!
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Rep Power: 0 the older single cam engines show good potential look at the single cams from exospeed.com they are awsome they can hang with old b series in drag cars all motor. Well that is a super light drag car but it can run almost the same times but i bet if you did get a new intake manifold and all and port and polish i bet you could see some better numbers beacuse i think this engine has breathing problems due to that werido intake manifold and it probably has crapy intake ports to make it have less hp soo i guess if u did want to make a statement and fix up a single cam in a 7th gen civic you would probably have to shave like 600 lbs of body fat and really get some mods in it : (
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Originally Posted by VinhTEC
the older single cam engines show good potential look at the single cams from exospeed.com they are awsome they can hang with old b series in drag cars all motor. Well that is a super light drag car but it can run almost the same times but i bet if you did get a new intake manifold and all and port and polish i bet you could see some better numbers beacuse i think this engine has breathing problems due to that werido intake manifold and it probably has crapy intake ports to make it have less hp soo i guess if u did want to make a statement and fix up a single cam in a 7th gen civic you would probably have to shave like 600 lbs of body fat and really get some mods in it : (
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Rep Power: 0 Ya know, I hear all the time that I/H/E doesn't help. I may not know what the hell I'm talking about when it comes to the really involved technical aspect of import cars. But I know everytime I've put something new on, I've noticed a difference. Granted, I really don't care how much because I don't race and it's just kind of a "hobby". I've done each part in steps and have noticed at least a small difference each bolt on. So it can't ALL be for nil. So yeah, there might be more bang for your buck if you save your money and do an engine swap or drop a turbo kit in, but to say that the bolt ons do absolutely nothing what so ever seems kinda far fetched to me....
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Rep Power: 811 I have port and polish head and header...my auto made 100whp tuned. I'm not giving up on it, altho I've found that intake and exhaust just rob low end. So those are stock. I have the head work, pullies, header, and soon to have cam gear tuned. I'm shooting for 110whp hopefully.
only losses i can think of are low end power. but at least its swapping that out for high end power (for the racing heads)
if your just daily driving, low end power would be more ideal. i guess thats why most ppl here dont bother with bolt ons. but some feel that gain or notice improvements in their high end with bolt ons so they go for it.
if your just daily driving, low end power would be more ideal. i guess thats why most ppl here dont bother with bolt ons. but some feel that gain or notice improvements in their high end with bolt ons so they go for it.
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Rep Power: 318 The short ram air intake have shown to cuase a loss becasue they suck hot air in. The rest kinda shift power around
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Rep Power: 0 Ive seen something online where I think it was Import tuner magazine put a cold air intake and exhaust on a 2001 EX and it gained like 6 horsepower and 3.7lbs of torque.
Last edited by PitbullCivic; Feb 10, 2005 at 01:57 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 OK I'll add my 2cents. I ran 17.0 bone stock.
With about 100lbs weight reduction I ran 16.9. My 60fts back then were around 2.3-2.4.
With I/H/E and a total of about 200lbs weight reduction I managed a 15.711 with a 2.2-2.3 60ft on stock 14's. My driving improved a little, but not by a full second. Assuming I gained 2-3 tenths do to weight redux and improved 60ft that other full second must have come from HP gained by the mods.
Now the last time I went to the track before I left I ran 15.1 with 2.08 60ft.
This was the first and only time I got the chance to run with my new mods. With UR crank pulley and set of BFG Dr's on 14"stock steelies I managed to shave those 6tenths. I'd say .3 from the DR's and the other .3 from the pulley. I also made one pass on my 17's and ran a 15.4 with a 2.2 60ft. Now if I had more practice heating up and launching the DR's I am positive I could have gotten a 1.9 60ft or better and broke into the 14's. I paid a total of $14000 for my car brand new. Put about $2000 in actual performance mods and dropped just about 2 secs and run faster than most SI's and can hang with some Type-S's. Oh and I still get over 30mpg. So IMO the mods do add some HP. If you want all out performance the easiest cost effective way at this point is N20, turbo or swap, but if your just looking for a few extra reliable HP wothout voiding your warranty then a few simple bolt-ons might be worth it to you.
Just my insight on this topic.
Later
With about 100lbs weight reduction I ran 16.9. My 60fts back then were around 2.3-2.4.
With I/H/E and a total of about 200lbs weight reduction I managed a 15.711 with a 2.2-2.3 60ft on stock 14's. My driving improved a little, but not by a full second. Assuming I gained 2-3 tenths do to weight redux and improved 60ft that other full second must have come from HP gained by the mods.
Now the last time I went to the track before I left I ran 15.1 with 2.08 60ft.
This was the first and only time I got the chance to run with my new mods. With UR crank pulley and set of BFG Dr's on 14"stock steelies I managed to shave those 6tenths. I'd say .3 from the DR's and the other .3 from the pulley. I also made one pass on my 17's and ran a 15.4 with a 2.2 60ft. Now if I had more practice heating up and launching the DR's I am positive I could have gotten a 1.9 60ft or better and broke into the 14's. I paid a total of $14000 for my car brand new. Put about $2000 in actual performance mods and dropped just about 2 secs and run faster than most SI's and can hang with some Type-S's. Oh and I still get over 30mpg. So IMO the mods do add some HP. If you want all out performance the easiest cost effective way at this point is N20, turbo or swap, but if your just looking for a few extra reliable HP wothout voiding your warranty then a few simple bolt-ons might be worth it to you.
Just my insight on this topic.
Later
Last edited by Redline04; Feb 11, 2005 at 10:37 AM.
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Rep Power: 336 Actually, i think you just became a better driver or got better at launching your car. 17 second 1/4 mile is WAY slow for a decent driver in the civic. A stock civic should run low 16s, high 15s.
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Originally Posted by cambo
Actually, i think you just became a better driver or got better at launching your car. 17 second 1/4 mile is WAY slow for a decent driver in the civic. A stock civic should run low 16s, high 15s.
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Rep Power: 811 Haha me neither. High 15 stock I've never heard of that even with a great driver. Hey redline04 have you ever took your car on a dyno to see how much whp it makes? Maybe even get it tuned with vafcII?
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Rep Power: 0 No I didn't have time before a left. Had to make sure all the important stuff was taken care of and spend time with the wife. $80 for three pulls at the local shop in town. Gonna do it when I get back around June maybe. Hopefully I'll have the N20 by then, but the money might get diverted to my house improvements. I need to get my header bolts fixed first too. I've been running without the top middle two ever since I put them on. Peice of crap torque wrench snapped them off. Gonna be a bitch drilling them out. I don't even know if I can get a drill in there. Might have to take it to a shop. Not sure if I'm losing power because of the leak. I can definitly feel some hot air coming out. Not good cause it probally blows right into the intake. After thats fixed I'd like to get a vented CF hood to hopefully reduce the underhood temps a little more. I know I'm losing power with that V2 and then blowing hot air into it makes it even worse. I almost bought an SAFC but then I heard the new ECU's will reset it after a few months so I opted not for now.
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Rep Power: 0 cool thanks. I was holding out for hondata, but we all know that story. I wish I could get them to make me a custom tune, but then again so does everyone else.
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Originally Posted by Jrfish007
The short ram air intake have shown to cuase a loss becasue they suck hot air in. The rest kinda shift power around
who told u that stupid lie?
there is alot of hidden power in the d17 n/a i ran a 15.7 in my 02 4dr lx.
now that crower is comeing out with a camshaft, piston, rods. this will give the d17 a lil more umph! trow in a new clutch, new inatake mani, get tunned with a safc or vafc, aem ems (when it comes out). good tires light rims, and im sure low 15, high 14's is not far away n/a.
