HP Racing header...lagging
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isn't the 4-2-1 a shorty header?
And, i think the o2 sim makes a difference, by the by.
Lastly, i think the people at HP are complete morons. Well, at least the four people that i talked to in Florida. Who sends the wrong directions to a client? And, as it has become quite apparent, Hp consistently forgets to include o2 sensors, or in my case, give me extra sensors! Maybe they need to fire the warehouse packaging guy.
And, i think the o2 sim makes a difference, by the by.
Lastly, i think the people at HP are complete morons. Well, at least the four people that i talked to in Florida. Who sends the wrong directions to a client? And, as it has become quite apparent, Hp consistently forgets to include o2 sensors, or in my case, give me extra sensors! Maybe they need to fire the warehouse packaging guy.
Originally Posted by HeHateMe
thats because HP's is a 4-1 style. my friend has a 4-2-1 on his 04 civic...no rubbing at all. mine only rubs the sub frame when I slam on the brakes 
I don't have my o2 sim box installed, but the CEL comes on every now and then.
I don't have my o2 sim box installed, but the CEL comes on every now and then.
Last edited by ManUtd0018; Oct 13, 2005 at 12:25 PM.
removing the front engine mount is just to get the header through.
the rest fits perfect and yes you do need to remove a little metal from the subframe so you dont get all the vibration in your car.
the rest fits perfect and yes you do need to remove a little metal from the subframe so you dont get all the vibration in your car.
Alright..well I noticed this thread is a little old, but I have a quick question.
First off, to clear up all of you LX'ers out there, I have an 05 LX manual, and this set-up fits, you just need an EX cat-back. Second, make sure that if you have an LX, you put the primary 02 sensor in the first bung, your secondary in the second, and use the plug it came with to plug the bung on the cat. Also, to everyone with an EX who has their secondary 02 sensor on the cat....WARNING: go buy a replacement 02 sensor for the future. When you decide to part out your car or whatnot, if you try to take it out....youre going to destroy your 02 sensor. HP did NOT heat treat that bung on the cat, and it actually melts the sensor to the bung. Thos of you who have already taken it out know what I mean. If you have your sensors on just the header, as you should if you have an LX, then youll be ok. I just want to make that clear, just in case some of you are considering purchasing this for their EX, so you can make a more educated decision. Dont get me wrong, the gains, IMO, are worth it for me, but if you dont want to destroy an 02 sensor, look elsewhere.
Its like someone on here said, it makes no sense why a company would manufacture a product that needs that much modification to work. Its retarded. Its a pretty simple fix, but highly unneccesary anyways. HP should consider redesigning this. I like it on my car, i did notice a little bit more go, so its still a nice upgrade, but for most of you who just want literally a bolt on, this header may not be the choice for you.
Anyways....on to my question. My CEL is on, and my 02 sim came with NO instructions. Anyone know which wires go to what on my 2nd 02 sensor?
Thanks for everyones help in advance.
First off, to clear up all of you LX'ers out there, I have an 05 LX manual, and this set-up fits, you just need an EX cat-back. Second, make sure that if you have an LX, you put the primary 02 sensor in the first bung, your secondary in the second, and use the plug it came with to plug the bung on the cat. Also, to everyone with an EX who has their secondary 02 sensor on the cat....WARNING: go buy a replacement 02 sensor for the future. When you decide to part out your car or whatnot, if you try to take it out....youre going to destroy your 02 sensor. HP did NOT heat treat that bung on the cat, and it actually melts the sensor to the bung. Thos of you who have already taken it out know what I mean. If you have your sensors on just the header, as you should if you have an LX, then youll be ok. I just want to make that clear, just in case some of you are considering purchasing this for their EX, so you can make a more educated decision. Dont get me wrong, the gains, IMO, are worth it for me, but if you dont want to destroy an 02 sensor, look elsewhere.
Its like someone on here said, it makes no sense why a company would manufacture a product that needs that much modification to work. Its retarded. Its a pretty simple fix, but highly unneccesary anyways. HP should consider redesigning this. I like it on my car, i did notice a little bit more go, so its still a nice upgrade, but for most of you who just want literally a bolt on, this header may not be the choice for you.
Anyways....on to my question. My CEL is on, and my 02 sim came with NO instructions. Anyone know which wires go to what on my 2nd 02 sensor?
Thanks for everyones help in advance.
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Originally Posted by spoonEM
WARNING: go buy a replacement 02 sensor for the future. When you decide to part out your car or whatnot, if you try to take it out....youre going to destroy your 02 sensor. HP did NOT heat treat that bung on the cat, and it actually melts the sensor to the bung. Thos of you who have already taken it out know what I mean.
DON'T BUY THIS HEADER!
IT IS A WASTE OF YOUR MONEY AND YOUR TIME!
IT IS A WASTE OF YOUR MONEY AND YOUR TIME!
Last edited by Danger Mouse; Jan 19, 2006 at 01:59 PM.
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
Rep Power: 324 funny it bolted up to my EX cat back fine. Although I agree it takes alot of work to make it seal up and fit. Definatly not for your average buyer.
same here had no problems with the header on my ex.
I noticed that the flange on the end of the header has not
been welded correctly a little slanting but it still seal up and fit nice.
About the second o2 sensor i got mine pluged in my cat replacer with
no cells comming on and without the o2 module installed.
I dont think its a waste of money or time
I noticed that the flange on the end of the header has not
been welded correctly a little slanting but it still seal up and fit nice.
About the second o2 sensor i got mine pluged in my cat replacer with
no cells comming on and without the o2 module installed.
I dont think its a waste of money or time
how did that happen?I have mine sitting on me car for about 1 1/2 years.
I would have noticed if a o2 sensors would be destroyed id get a cel light.
the only problem i have somethimes ( not on regular basis) is that wen i start
the car it would idle just fine but wen i drive off the car stutters and
doesnt rev over 3000rpm even if i floor it.this goes for about a few sec and
will then be all back to normal.or if i got this problem and notice it i shut down
the engine,start it again and everything is just fine.
Well didnt happen for months now.
I would have noticed if a o2 sensors would be destroyed id get a cel light.
the only problem i have somethimes ( not on regular basis) is that wen i start
the car it would idle just fine but wen i drive off the car stutters and
doesnt rev over 3000rpm even if i floor it.this goes for about a few sec and
will then be all back to normal.or if i got this problem and notice it i shut down
the engine,start it again and everything is just fine.
Well didnt happen for months now.
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My CEL is on, and my 02 sim came with NO instructions. Anyone know which wires go to what on my 2nd 02 sensor?
first off if you have to cut your subframe to install a header your best bet is to not install it. your risking the structural integrity of the car at that point. second its a damn header if you cant figure out how to install a header correctly you shouldnt be installing anything yourself. and if you need to run a o2 simulator on both o2's then you really dont want to install it because then your ecu never really know the truth about how the car is running. your o2's are monitors. they are what makes sure your AFR is ok. if you have a problem it will read the AFR and adjust the comp accordingly. but with out them you have the possibility of ruining your engine because all you really know is how the motor sounds.
it really amazes me how some people rush into things with out really knowing what they are doing or what they are effecting by doing a certain mod. i have a full header cat pipe and exhaust on my car and retained both o2's and have never thrown a cel yet. that includes extending all my o2 wires which are jacketed. if you dont know what a product can effect dont install it. and if you really must have someone that knows what they are doing do it for you.
it really amazes me how some people rush into things with out really knowing what they are doing or what they are effecting by doing a certain mod. i have a full header cat pipe and exhaust on my car and retained both o2's and have never thrown a cel yet. that includes extending all my o2 wires which are jacketed. if you dont know what a product can effect dont install it. and if you really must have someone that knows what they are doing do it for you.
Originally Posted by familycar
first off if you have to cut your subframe to install a header your best bet is to not install it. your risking the structural integrity of the car at that point. second its a damn header if you cant figure out how to install a header correctly you shouldnt be installing anything yourself. and if you need to run a o2 simulator on both o2's then you really dont want to install it because then your ecu never really know the truth about how the car is running. your o2's are monitors. they are what makes sure your AFR is ok. if you have a problem it will read the AFR and adjust the comp accordingly. but with out them you have the possibility of ruining your engine because all you really know is how the motor sounds.
it really amazes me how some people rush into things with out really knowing what they are doing or what they are effecting by doing a certain mod. i have a full header cat pipe and exhaust on my car and retained both o2's and have never thrown a cel yet. that includes extending all my o2 wires which are jacketed. if you dont know what a product can effect dont install it. and if you really must have someone that knows what they are doing do it for you.
it really amazes me how some people rush into things with out really knowing what they are doing or what they are effecting by doing a certain mod. i have a full header cat pipe and exhaust on my car and retained both o2's and have never thrown a cel yet. that includes extending all my o2 wires which are jacketed. if you dont know what a product can effect dont install it. and if you really must have someone that knows what they are doing do it for you.
yeah you have to cut out some metal off the subframe its not that much
though and will not realy effect tructural integrity.so the whole sitting there
shouldnt be there either.
i installed my header myself and had no problem with installing after that was
done took it for a spin so the engine was warm and did a ecu reset.
Sinds our ecu are nice self learning and because it not that big performance
mod i will be able to correct AFR itself. after install i never had any cels and
doing 15.7sec on 1/4 mile my friend does 15.69sec with a B16.haha
so it does what it need to do and it doing great.
here for those header install
though and will not realy effect tructural integrity.so the whole sitting there
shouldnt be there either.
i installed my header myself and had no problem with installing after that was
done took it for a spin so the engine was warm and did a ecu reset.
Sinds our ecu are nice self learning and because it not that big performance
mod i will be able to correct AFR itself. after install i never had any cels and
doing 15.7sec on 1/4 mile my friend does 15.69sec with a B16.haha
so it does what it need to do and it doing great.
here for those header install
Last edited by DaRk_MauL; Jan 20, 2006 at 04:57 AM.
Originally Posted by DaRk_MauL
yeah you have to cut out some metal off the subframe its not that much
though and will not realy effect tructural integrity.so the whole sitting there
shouldnt be there either.
i installed my header myself and had no problem with installing after that was
done took it for a spin so the engine was warm and did a ecu reset.
Sinds our ecu are nice self learning and because it not that big performance
mod i will be able to correct AFR itself. after install i never had any cels and
doing 15.7sec on 1/4 mile my friend does 15.69sec with a B16.haha
so it does what it need to do and it doing great.
here for those header install
though and will not realy effect tructural integrity.so the whole sitting there
shouldnt be there either.
i installed my header myself and had no problem with installing after that was
done took it for a spin so the engine was warm and did a ecu reset.
Sinds our ecu are nice self learning and because it not that big performance
mod i will be able to correct AFR itself. after install i never had any cels and
doing 15.7sec on 1/4 mile my friend does 15.69sec with a B16.haha
so it does what it need to do and it doing great.
here for those header install
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
as far as I know, you only have to use an o2 simulator on the secondary ...
primary is important to keep stock
primary is important to keep stock
Originally Posted by familycar
look guy i am not trying to argue with anyone just educate. if you are running 2 o2 simulators on the only 2 o2's you have on the car. what is monitoring the motor???? second if you cut the frame on any vehicle with out replacing the metal you cut out with some sort of gusset or brace i hate to tell you but you are changing and risking the sub frames integrity. so you can THINK what you want but i work with metal all the time and know the truth. argue all you want but that doesnt change fact. i havent even run my car yet but im am sure i can get a comprable time if not better because of my clutch and flywheel. if you really know how motors and ecu's work you wouldnt be arguing with me right now
quality inspector so have to do alot with car.I btw never said i was running
2 o2 sims on my 2 o2 sens.I just got my stock o2 working just fine and
the AFR is a ok.
OBDII ecu work like this.
it will operate in open and closed loop.the basic
differents between the two modes is wen in closed loop the ecu will lookup the table it uses to determine how much fuel to inject into the engine,air temp and engine collant determine how much fuel to inject.so after a resset of the ecu next time you start it starts reading after it has the right temp.
so if the AFR change with this mod. it looksup the table and the ecu adjust it.
If you would exceed you get a fuel cut.
open loop ,wen starting car till o2,s are hot for there chemical reaction,wen
decelerating with throttle clossed,when throttle advanced to some 80%.
In open loop the ecu has no idea what the mixture is.
Originally Posted by DaRk_MauL
I work where they make cvt transmission and pulleys for GM and i am
quality inspector so have to do alot with car.I btw never said i was running
2 o2 sims on my 2 o2 sens.I just got my stock o2 working just fine and
the AFR is a ok.
OBDII ecu work like this.
it will operate in open and closed loop.the basic
differents between the two modes is wen in closed loop the ecu will lookup the table it uses to determine how much fuel to inject into the engine,air temp and engine collant determine how much fuel to inject.so after a resset of the ecu next time you start it starts reading after it has the right temp.
so if the AFR change with this mod. it looksup the table and the ecu adjust it.
If you would exceed you get a fuel cut.
open loop ,wen starting car till o2,s are hot for there chemical reaction,wen
decelerating with throttle clossed,when throttle advanced to some 80%.
In open loop the ecu has no idea what the mixture is.
quality inspector so have to do alot with car.I btw never said i was running
2 o2 sims on my 2 o2 sens.I just got my stock o2 working just fine and
the AFR is a ok.
OBDII ecu work like this.
it will operate in open and closed loop.the basic
differents between the two modes is wen in closed loop the ecu will lookup the table it uses to determine how much fuel to inject into the engine,air temp and engine collant determine how much fuel to inject.so after a resset of the ecu next time you start it starts reading after it has the right temp.
so if the AFR change with this mod. it looksup the table and the ecu adjust it.
If you would exceed you get a fuel cut.
open loop ,wen starting car till o2,s are hot for there chemical reaction,wen
decelerating with throttle clossed,when throttle advanced to some 80%.
In open loop the ecu has no idea what the mixture is.
if you put a o2 simulator in the vehicle on bank 2 o2 your fine. this is just a monitor and does not really control anything. the bank one o2 however does monitor and detect changes. if the afr is off is will help adjust. but if your getting a fake signal form a o2 simulator then the ecu thinks everything is fine and will not ever make any adjustments per the actual o2 reading.
I understand what you are saying.the last post is also right.but you told
me in a post that if i am using 2 o2 sim waht i monitoring me car.so i told
you that i am just using my stock o2 sensors so everthing is reading thinks
like they should.i know the o2 sim just let the ecu bank know that everthing
is ok, thats why i didnt installed it.and dont get any cels.
me in a post that if i am using 2 o2 sim waht i monitoring me car.so i told
you that i am just using my stock o2 sensors so everthing is reading thinks
like they should.i know the o2 sim just let the ecu bank know that everthing
is ok, thats why i didnt installed it.and dont get any cels.
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Originally Posted by spoonEM
Anyways....on to my question. My CEL is on, and my 02 sim came with NO instructions. Anyone know which wires go to what on my 2nd 02 sensor?
it's not the same brand but should work the same. You should be able to figure something out. They have installation intruction and a table to explain the wire color: http://www.o2simulator.com/download/Honda.pdf
Good luck!
Originally Posted by DaRk_MauL
I understand what you are saying.the last post is also right.but you told
me in a post that if i am using 2 o2 sim waht i monitoring me car.so i told
you that i am just using my stock o2 sensors so everthing is reading thinks
like they should.i know the o2 sim just let the ecu bank know that everthing
is ok, thats why i didnt installed it.and dont get any cels.
me in a post that if i am using 2 o2 sim waht i monitoring me car.so i told
you that i am just using my stock o2 sensors so everthing is reading thinks
like they should.i know the o2 sim just let the ecu bank know that everthing
is ok, thats why i didnt installed it.and dont get any cels.
Originally Posted by Redviking
Don't know if it can help but check this site... http://www.o2simulator.com/28301/index.html
it's not the same brand but should work the same. You should be able to figure something out. They have installation intruction and a table to explain the wire color: http://www.o2simulator.com/download/Honda.pdf
Good luck!
it's not the same brand but should work the same. You should be able to figure something out. They have installation intruction and a table to explain the wire color: http://www.o2simulator.com/download/Honda.pdf
Good luck!
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Originally Posted by Danger Mouse
OMG.. its like I have been talking to myself UPTO this point... I was screaming about that in a different thread warning people agianst buying an HP.. No one would listen to me.. when I called HP and bitched they acted like I didnt know what I was talking about.. and that jackass Ed over at TrueHonda wouldnt give me a refund becuase I had installed the Header and ran it for a day. Even though, PER HP. the header ONLY works with their CatBack system which TrueHonda claims it works with any system.. SO.. Not only do I have HUGE F'ing gap in my sub-frame now, I have to spend 100 bucks on a(n) O2 Sensor replacement (was destoryed in removal), 400 or what ever I paid for the F'ing thing (header) like 400 total cash on install and removal!
And, why is Ed a jackass? If there was a large gap or whatever, or you knew that you were going to return it then why would you run it? That's just like a shoe store saying not to wear the shoes outside until you know you wan them for sure.
Anyway, sorry it didn't work out. What type of catback do you have?
Also, you know what i've noticed is that when i shift from first or second from 5500 or so, right when i release the clutch into second i hear a loud bam or something like it; not hitting metal though. It doesn't happen from 3rd to 4th or 4th to third. When under the car i noticed that i was missing a bolt on the flange, and that the missing bolt is causing some leakage. but then i thought that maybe the flange isn't working well enough and when the engine moves forward during hard shifting the flange is pulled.. and thoughts?
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Originally Posted by ManUtd0018
okay, i agree with you that HP are dumb. I have this header too and i have also filed about a 1/4 inch from the subfram, not a big deal. But my header hooks right up to my RSR ex mag.
And, why is Ed a jackass? If there was a large gap or whatever, or you knew that you were going to return it then why would you run it? That's just like a shoe store saying not to wear the shoes outside until you know you wan them for sure.
Anyway, sorry it didn't work out. What type of catback do you have?
Also, you know what i've noticed is that when i shift from first or second from 5500 or so, right when i release the clutch into second i hear a loud bam or something like it; not hitting metal though. It doesn't happen from 3rd to 4th or 4th to third. When under the car i noticed that i was missing a bolt on the flange, and that the missing bolt is causing some leakage. but then i thought that maybe the flange isn't working well enough and when the engine moves forward during hard shifting the flange is pulled.. and thoughts?
And, why is Ed a jackass? If there was a large gap or whatever, or you knew that you were going to return it then why would you run it? That's just like a shoe store saying not to wear the shoes outside until you know you wan them for sure.
Anyway, sorry it didn't work out. What type of catback do you have?
Also, you know what i've noticed is that when i shift from first or second from 5500 or so, right when i release the clutch into second i hear a loud bam or something like it; not hitting metal though. It doesn't happen from 3rd to 4th or 4th to third. When under the car i noticed that i was missing a bolt on the flange, and that the missing bolt is causing some leakage. but then i thought that maybe the flange isn't working well enough and when the engine moves forward during hard shifting the flange is pulled.. and thoughts?
Well i noticed a sound like that too but its because i need motor mount insert.
i noticed that my engine is starting to move more back and forward between
the 1st and 2de shift.so if i pull everthing out of the 1ste gear the motor will
pull the header forward wen i shift the header flange hits the cat flange.
i noticed that my engine is starting to move more back and forward between
the 1st and 2de shift.so if i pull everthing out of the 1ste gear the motor will
pull the header forward wen i shift the header flange hits the cat flange.
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