solo_rider

i do my own but whem the mantence light comes on i bring it to the dealer

ctx66

whats this info based on?

and also all honda dealers do not use the same oil, for example syntec blend. its their choice, a local one near me uses exxon superflo


mobil 1 can run a lot longer than that, how come you drain it so soon

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

It's based off what Honda says, I called them up (not the dealer, I called Honda of America) to find what kinda of oil they use. And a Honda dealer doesn't have the option to use whatever they want, unless their service department is a certified by Honda, but if it is, then they have to use Honda Genuin parts and oil is included it.

ctx66

i meant the comment on how honda oil filters have the best media

4jacks

iTrader: (3)

Change it myself

Honda Oil .. Honda Filter

Little more expensive.. but I think it's worth it in the long run, I plan to rack up a good amount of miles on the Civic.

jkob2k1

Just Change It Yourself And Save Money

Wulf

I change my own and go about 10k on Mobil 1 with a mobil 1 or napa oil filter.

Why do some of you change your oil so often....seems to be a big waste of money to me.

Check out this site:
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

THey showed that Mobil 1 lasted 18,000 with a filter change at 12,000 and top offs every 1,000 miles. You guys want to change oil so much...send me your old oil...hell I could filter it and run another 7k on it. I would never have to buy oil again!

TSSCivic

I always do my own oil on all my cars. For my Civic, I use either Mobil 1 5W-30 or Royal Purple 5W-30 all year long with OEM Honda oil filter.

Diver

Do it yourself and you can take it to jiffy lube and dispose for free

I use AMSoil on one car and quakerstate on another...

4drcivic2k1

iTrader: (2)

The newer honda filters are made by fram. The older ones and S2000 filter is made by toyo roki in japan.

TSSCivic

Yea, it even says it on the filter itself. Is there any Honda dealership that still sells the older Honda filter?

4drcivic2k1

iTrader: (2)

Yes, they all do. Just ask for an S2000 Filter.

TSSCivic

Oh, so S2000's oil filter is the same as the rest of the Honda just like what I thought too. Thanks for the info.

4drcivic2k1

iTrader: (2)

Almost all hondas from about the mid-80s to present use the same filter, granted different manufacturing has made them different sizes and they look different but they all fit the same threads.

down_

www.overboost.com <---ran something like 5 major tests on them ( the oil filters) as for the oil they use. all i know is that is castrol, synthetic or not..its just castrol

ohiojosh78

ok so that article says that they rank the Honda OEM #1 overall and #1 in filter area (most important feature) but at the end they say, "OEM filters still the best? Maybe not."

I dont understand that part. it looks like their tests say that OEM is best but then they contradict themselves???

Nervermind I read that last part to fast. They DO agree that Honda OEM filter is best.

ctx66

not to mention they say its composition and construction is identical to fram, which scored last place..but yet they still rank it at #1? im not gonna put much faith into that test.. anyone who ranks a filter with cardboard endcaps #1 needs their head checked

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

Yes, but they siad it got #1 simply because it had more of the fram filtering material inside, thus it has a greater filtering capcity. Cardboard endcaps seems shaky, but it works, and it works almost all the time from what see (at least under normal circumstances).

jwalker87

iTrader: (3)

Castrol Syntec 5w20 full synthetic and a k&n oil filter. I really don't understand why people are whining about the placement of the filter...I've never changed the oil on any other car, but ours are pretty darn easy to get to.

UltimateWarrior

I agree, I've dealt with worse! Just buy some Wal-Mart black ramps and drive up on em'. Makes life MUCH easier. I lay on my roller board and have fun changin' the oil!

reddawnman

Change your own.

I'm using RedLine 5w-20. Was using the K&N oil filters, but I'm trying the Mobil 1 filters just to see if the oil is cleaner. K&N has better flow for racing / autocross but filtration is better on the M1.

Oil change intervals of 6K miles... filter change and Topoff at 3K or so miles.

So why change your own then? Well, you get to get under your car and are forced to kind of understand how stuff works. Also, if you have a torn CV boot or something dripping, you'll notice it right away, while the guys at iffy lube may not remember to tell you.

Financially, if you run synthetic, you should probably do it yourself. Consider:

"Standard" iffy lube with just the labor (You supply oil + filter) is 15.00 or so i think. For synthetic Oil from them it's like 35, and their syn will probably not be the best stuff on earth.

Redline is about $8 a qt, figure 4 qts (So you have about a 1/2 full one for when you change the filter and need to top off in your trunk): $32

A good M1 oil filter would be about 8 bucks, maybe less

Fixed cost of about 50 bucks for Jacks / Stands / Beer / drain pan/ impulse buys at the Parts store.

assuming you give them the oil / filter you want them to use and just pay the labor, you break even after the 4th full change when the labor savings = 60 bucks.

By doing it yourself you also save the headache of having the moron in the pit strip your pan gasket threads by using an air wrench to replace (permanently) the drain plug

jwalker87

iTrader: (3)

i just changed my oil for the first time last weekend, and it is really easy. I was looking around at oils, though, and the redline was $7.98/qt, while Castrol Syntec (also full synthetic) was $5.00/qt. That's a pretty big difference, so I went with the Castrol.

reddawnman

RedLine is made using full PAO (Polyaliphaticoleoresin) syn oils. Syntec is made using a diff formulation. Also redline has a buttload of moly in it, which is where some of the cost comes from. I like redline because of the moly and extended drains. lots of ppl swear by Mobil 1 or German Castrol (Castrol synthetic made in germany, green tinge) To each his own.

If you are interested in oil / lubrication stuff, check out

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

ctx66

pao stands for polyalphaolefin. red line is not full pao. it is a poe (polyolester), and pao mix.

UltimateWarrior

Red Line huh? I used Red Line fuel injector cleaner but never saw the oil. Hmmm. I am using Moble 1 Syn right now. Do you think Red Line is that much better? Or shall I say, worth the extra cost? Moble 1 is around $5 a quart.

Thanks.

pnoyster2k1cvic

iTrader: (29)

hey guys!, when I checked my oil this morning... and tried smelling the oil, it smells like it got some fuel mixed with it... is this normal? i'm using Mobil 1 supersyn 5w 30... LMK you guys thanks!

ctx66

id suggest getting a used oil analysis to see if there is fuel in your oil

heres a popular lab
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

pnoyster2k1cvic

iTrader: (29)

^^^thanks dood!

reddawnman

I stand corrected.. I thought it was full PAO...

As to whether its worth the extra 3 bucks a qt., I'm not sure right now. I've been following BITOG (bobistheoilguy.com) message boards, and most people are mobil 1 or german castrol fans, lots of redline poo-pooing going on there.

If you look at the Used oil analyses ont he site, if redline is used in the right weights as recommended, and you give it time (like 3K miles) to coat the parts with a lot of moly, it gives great numbers.

You'll have to decide if its worth the extra 3 bucks a qt. Personally I havent gotten a UOA yet. the next time I have 23 bucks to send it to blackstone I will.

ctx66

if you do decide to get your oil analyzed, post the results here and they can tell you more about what itmeans, but blackstone also tells you a bit.