kyle_l88

I have a 2000 Civic SE (canadian version of the LX minus power windows). I'm pretty sure up until now its just been regular motor oil I have been using and the car is at 110 k miles. The question I have is, I wanted to switch to sythetic oil but i heard at higher miles you shouldnt make the swap. Also, if you haven't been using it from the beginning it's probably not a good idea. Is this right or can I swap over to synthetic? 0_o

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Switch all you want, but why synthetic? How often do you hear of an engine failing due to using dino oil? Not very often, if ever.

kyle_l88

Well as of this point i will probably not change to synthetic but because it gets so freakin cold up here in canada in the winter, I hear synthetic is better under cold conditions than regular motor oil. Of course ppl could just be feeding us lies :P but yea i guess for the overall pros to synthetic, plus right now i found synthetic Mobil 1 for the same price as regular motor oil hah. Thats what got me thinking in the first place.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

More than likely you will have engine failure due to the cooling system or something else long before your engine fails due to something oil related. If it's the same price though, why not?

AZSooner

I use Mobile 1 full synthetic (5-20W) and I use the Honda filters. I change my oil every 5K miles (live in AZ, so the temps get pretty high here). Make sure you get a crushable washer for the drain plug too.

Brent

SiG

iTrader: (12)

Just started doing my own... FRAM filter with Castrol synthetic oil

ottotheclown

Doing your own oil change is great. Would suggest you look up Fram filters compared with others, as many seem to use them and would suggest you look up Pennzoil new Ultra, Bob is the oil guy might give you some ideas.Using the most popular would be a good idea only if most users knew what they were doing. I would hold off selecting your filter, and oil until you look things up. The Honda filter is made by Honeywell who make Fram. The oem filter is alot like a Extra Guard Fram filter. That would bother me.

ottotheclown

Valvoline is not a true type IV, in fact the add pack with Valvoline is the weakest around, So many oils, so many wrong ideas.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

finally someone who see's the truth. so many people thing they "know" so much by mere word of mouth...do actual research and they'll see otherwise.

group IV oils are extremely expensive...like 15$ a qt.

also most people dont know but in the US, groupIII oils can be labeled as "full synthetic" but are not true full synthetics. in Europe, only true group IV oils can be called full syn.

ChrisC

What about Valvoline Max Life - Synthetic Blend 5W-30 (engine guarantee 225,000) ?
At the local Walmart here in California is $14 for 5 Qt (4.73 liters).
It says it have special additives to protect he engine etc.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

^Thats what I use

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

me too. especially because of the extra concentrate of moly... helps cars with high milage.

Vince_TB

I always go to the shop 'cause it only cost 27 bucks and they do a check up and find troubles...

pon55

iTrader: (19)

Yea, they find the troubles even if they ain't there.

Vince_TB

Yeah, but i always ask a few buddies of mine if i'm getting ripped off.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Shops don't care about the quality of their work. The spill oil all over the engine and it smells like burning oil for a week. They forget to tighten the drain bolt (a few times) and I end up having to crawl under anyway. They don't oil the filter before install and it's a nightmare to take off, they over tighten the drain bolt when they do remember to torque it. The oil is rarely at the level that it should be after they have finished. That's why I do the oil change myself... Not to mention all the B.S. they try to fix, or the fact that they use refurbished, bulk oil that is garbage. It's up to you, I'd rather spend 25 dollars and do the oil change myself, properly than let some kid making minimum wage do it... IMO.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

pretty much sums it up. most their oils they use are low grade oils.

Mad Dog Tannen

I do not trust anyone with my car. Too many mechanics and quick lube employees become complacent and forget things and make mistakes. I know I will double check my work. And I have heard too many stories of mishaps at dealers and quick lubes alike.

As for oil. I say that synthetic will last longer so it is worth a little more $. And 5w-20 for which engine? My Honda says use 5w-30.

Vince_TB

I go to a licensed shop, not "big fat mike shop". They got protocols and experienced mechs....

MelJ

I trust the Honda dealership around my area, but I'm not waiting in line for my oil change. I try to do my own car work when I can. When I had my Corolla, the retards at Pep Boys(yeah yeah. Mistake number 1) somehow forgot to put my drums back on my car. WTF? That was about 3 years ago and I've never taken that car, or my current car to a brake shop ever again.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

did u know 80% if "full syn oils" here in the US is not a true synthetic oil? if u are not paying about $15 a qt than its not a real syn oil.

the US is the only country that allows groupIII oils to be called "synthetic"

in Europe and everywhere else, only true synthetic oils (group IV oils) are legally allowed to be labeled at synthetic oils.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

jiffy lube is a licensed shop. did u know that? and they are about the worst place u can take ur car to do an oil change.

jsut because the shop is lic doesnt mean every employee is ASE certified.

Mad Dog Tannen

Yes, I did read the previous posts. And just as the USDA allows beef that is not grass fed to be called grass fed. The stardards for oil grades are up to par with the rest of governmental organizations.We would not have a oil spill in the gulf right now if government did it's job.
I do believe that (US) synthetics are of higher quality than regular oils and still last longer. My oil does keep good color longer when it is synthetic.

What Brands are true synthetics?

Vince_TB

Never heard of the place.

I don't know how it works in the US of A, but here in Québec, Canada all shops are forced by law to drop you a written quote for any repair whatsoever if you ask it and they can't charge higher.

So with that information I can take the time to ask friends if i'm getting ripped off.

Also, all fix are guaranteed to work for a reasonable period of time.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yeah the usa is pretty shady when it comes to auto repair shops.

MelJ

Some shop ripped my girlfriend off when she went to get her car inspected. I don't know the whole story, but I guess the car failed. Guy gave her a list of things that needed to be done in order to pass. Now in NY, you can get a temporary sticker to get those things taken care of. I guess the car needed new brakes, which isn't an issue for me to take care of. But I got the receipt and they charged her for some "fuel system cleaning", which I'm pretty sure they just put a bottle of STP in the tank. The guy told me she said okay to all of this. She says she didn't. All I know is I told her the next time she brings the car in, let me go and do it. Some *** did my car inspection and told me my throttle body was dirty even though I thoroughly cleaned it once I got my new intake . I popped the hood when I got home and the intake hadn't even been touched. . I plan on becoming an auto technician. I understand you're in it to make money, but come on.

02_d17a1_dx

iTrader: (1)

Ive heard many, many stories about bad workmanship at auto repair places.

Here in Tennessee, Firestone does a terrible job, I have a pet peeve about torquing to spec, and Firestone just uses an impact for everything to tighten them down, never take your car there, cant tell you how many stripped wheel studs and oil pan drain plugs people i know have had happen to them form their shotty work.

A good place to go is NTB, they always torque to spec and are honest, that being said, every shop is different. One Firestone may follow good practices whereas another might not. Honestly, the only way i know to be sure that my car is worked on properly is to do it myself. The only 2 things I can not do myself are 1) Alignments and 2) Tire mounting. For Alignments, I use a level and measuring tape and get it close to spec, then take it to NTB, where they give me a free printout of the specs from their laser alignment machine, I then go back home and make adjustments and go back for another free printout, Usually thats all it takes to get it perfect, and it was free.

For tire mounting I happen to know a guy that owns a tire mounter and balancer, so again, its free, i just use his equipment.

Everything else I do on my own.

For my oil changes, I use Mobil 1 5w-20, I used 5w-30 to see if it made a difference, since really the D17 should use 5W-30, but it didnt make a difference, so i use 5W-20 for the extra MPG. I originally used fram filters, but I found about them being bad, so i bought: a honda oem filter, Fram "orange", fram tough guard, fram extended performance, Bosch, and Mobil 1 filters. Then i got out the dremel and cut off the outer shields and found out basically what i expected, which is: You get what you pay for.

The frams were very cheapily made, the only differences between the three types is the number of pleats, they all use cheap paper filter elements, very cheap bypass valve springs, and cheap rubber anti drain back valves.

The Honda OEM filter was EXACTLY like the Fram tough guard filter.

The Bosch and Mobil 1 filters were much better, the reason I use Mobil 1 filters is because they use a better blend of synthetic fibers in the filter element, IMO.

If you want to see pictures of these filters, go to Bob Is The Oil Guy's website and you can see the differences there between popular filters.

When I do my oil changes I always use new crush washers, theyre 16 cents at my local dealer, and are worth the insurance.

NOTE: if you ever take your car to someone to get your oil changed, take a crush washer with you, and be sure they use it.

If a shop ever does your oil change without a new crush washer, and just removes the old one and reinstalls your drain plug without any washer on it at all, you shouldnt use a crush washer ever again. This is because the irregular surface of the bolt will scratch the oil pan surface. Crush washers are not designed to fill these small scratches and will most likely leak, if your drain plug does not have a washer on it, its best to just keep running it without it, but be sure it doesnt loosen on you.

I had some valvetrain noise when I first got my civic at 122k miles, and once i put Mobil 1 in it, 100 miles later the noise was gone, it really does a good job of cleaning out sludge and lubricating extremely well. I run it for 10k miles intervals, the oil still looks better than conventional after 3k miles and the filter (which I cut into after an oil change before, i really love cutting things i guess) had particulate on it, but not enough to impede the flow of oil through the filter.

Just my two cents.

MelJ

Once I got a torque wrench, I used it for everything. I like to be thorough. It only takes a few extra seconds. Speaking of Firestone, those asshats messed up my Corolla. Put the tires back on after the inspection and I guess they half assed putting the lugs back on the tires. Took the hubcap off and the lug just rolled away . I never knew about the whole crush washer thing. I always used one though. I guess that applies to other cars as well though? One oil change I tossed it away and forgot to get an extra for my Corolla and then picked up another one for the next change. And I usually get my CWs for free. But get this, this one dealer charged me .50 the first time. No biggie. I go back for the next change and it's 3 f*cking dollars! I left it on the counter and just left since all I had was .50.

02_d17a1_dx

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, i bought my 7-150 ft lb torque wrench off amazon for $35, best $35 ive ever spent. Definitely better than using an impact, or going by feel for that matter, and yeah they stripped 2 studs and rounded off 6 lug nuts off my parents pontiac vibe. I took it back and pointed out the t nuts that were sticking out and that i could turn by hand but werent going anywhere (which were on the same wheel, stupid people), and the 6, yes, SIX lugs they rounded off with the impact, after i specifically asked them to torque to spec, and even on the receipt it had a note that I asked to torque to spec. Atleast they replaced them for free. I've only been to the dealer once for crush washers, lol, got a dozen, put them in a baggie and stuffed 'em in my glove box. It was like less than $2 and theyll last me forever. I dont know why so many people trust others to do their oil changes though, so many places are just interested in making a quick buck and dont care about your vehicle. I went to a quick lube place once (ONCE), wasnt my car, wasnt my money. It cost $43 for an oil change, which consisted of a guestimation of how much oil to put in, which the oil was whatever bulk oil they had (which was crap), and a "safety" inspection which consisted of checking my lights, didnt even check the fluids under the hood, that was a "preferred" service.

So, long story short: if you have a driveway, do your own oil changes, they are a critical maintenance item!

Kobraa

What do you guys think of K&N oil filters? http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm

Also I just got a 07 Civic Ex and i'm trying to decide on an oil. Planning on having this car until it dies so should I go with full synthetic or would a high mileage syntec blend be better since the car is approaching 75 k miles?