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get about 5-8grand and drop it into a moter. k20a2 is prolly the only way to go. from there ur numbers are looking up to 200!

 
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Every 100 pounds is worth a tenth of a second...

 
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^^ depends on where that weight is... Rotational weight is worth about 7X more then static weight.

 
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^^ i thought rotational weight was only worth 4x more then the static weight ???

 
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If you want 150 at the crank you are gonna have to rip the motor apart. It has yet to be done, but it is worthy project. I might do it sometime in the future. I am sure the motor can be bored out to a 1.9 maybe a 2.0. Then you need new rods, pistons, seals, etc. As for head work, port and polish, 3 or 5 angle valve job, a good intake manifold, a better throttle body, port and polish exhaust manifold, a good header, high flow cat and a good 2.5 inch exhaust. Throw in some titanium valve springs and retainers and you are good to go. It is an expensive project but I firmly believe that this engine can make 200 n/a.

 
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Correction on my part, its actually worth about 70% more then static weight...

I.E. 1 LB of Rotational wieght = approximatly 1.42 LBS of static weight. (and 10 LBS rotational = 14.2 LBs static) However this doent take in to account increases in rotational Inertia, like Going to a lager then stock wheel....

End-All to the weight question

 
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^^ thanks alot for the explanation

 
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nice I was looking for that ratio. Thanks. I need to get some light wheels soon.

 
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for an engine...heard the pace called "Top Notch" sells b16's installed for 1500. but das in SA,TX...if ur interested.

 
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bah. that post almost depresses me to the point of wanting to sell my POS Civic. taking thousands of dollars just to get 150hp, i've seen lawnmowers with half of that... pathetic. why'd i buy a Civic?

 
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10 Grand to get 150 whp from a D17? What are you smoking I plan on getting about 200 whp with only about 5g's into the motor. Granted somethings are still up in the air, like I am hoping AEM has their EMS system out for our car before I am done, that may add some $$$ over the emanage system I am looking at, but 10 g's is a little over priced. Only 5g... maybe 6g to get to 200 whp N/A and I'm rebuilding every little part, even the rebuilding the ****ing crank to destroke the motor with costum gearing in the tranny.

You guys are really underestimating our motor, just because bolt on don't do much. Look at what your replacing, i.e. take off a 2.25 inch exsaughst and replace it with a 2.5 inch tube, what do you expect to get 50 hp? it's not a big block chevy motor.

 
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$5000 for 200hp is still pretty bad, but much better than $10000 for 150hp. how much would it take to get to 225-250 all engine, with no turbo?

 
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How much money or how much to be done to the engine? I posted earlier one what you can do. changing the displacement to a 1.9 or even a 2.0, sleeving it, new pistons, rods, etc plus some headwork, nice free flowing intake, throttle body, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and header back could get you some nice numbers. you figure the k20 is a 2.0L engine making close to 220 (in the type R). So getting the displacement up is the biggest factor. then comes better compression, better fuel delivery, better head, etc. See where I am going with this?

My first thing would be to start with the head. Get the best intake you can get, bore out your throttle body, custom a good intake manifold, port and polish the head, 3 or 5 angle valve job, and get some titanium valves and valve springs. don't forget to get a good header/exhaust and port and polish the exhaust manifold. Get a racing pully and pull your AC and PS. That will easily get you 150-160 at the crank. If you want to do the block, then go for it.

 
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money, and work is what i meant, sorry i didn't word it very well. all i really need to worry about is moneywise though. all the work would be done by a performance shop that's local, i'd get really good deals on all of it. basically, i'd pay cost they pay for parts, and labor.

 
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well you are gonna have to do your research. I believe the block can be bored to at least 1.9, but finding rods and pistons for that might be difficult. You might be stretching it with boring to a 2.0. You will need camshaft regrind too. It is all up to what you can afford.

 
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A cam & cam gear will get you close..

 
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Well, for 5g that I will be spending, I will probably be getting way more than 200 whp. A short synapse of what I want done to the engine;

internal (all custom made):
10mm shorter stroke crank shaft
10mm longer rods
12:1 compresion pistons

Heads:
5 way angle job
titanium valves
new springs, possibly custom
cam

I'm not even getting into the tranny.

But all the internal work is to raise my redline to 8500 rpm, and with the high compression it will keep volumetirc effienciency up, but detnotation will be kept off by a lowwer volumetric effecincy up high (around 6k rpm it will start to fall)

This is a track set up, I engineered to for a huge power band so that I don't have to shift all the time while on mid-ohio's track.