About six months ago, my driver's door power lock on my '02 LX stopped working. I wouldn't even have noticed, but I got no "beep" from the second hit on the remote. The marker lights flashed like everything was cool. The passenger side worked fine. From inside, the power lock switch would lock and unlock the passenger side no problem, but nothing on the drivers side. Even when I manually locked my driver's side (by holding the inner door handle out and pressing down the lock button), the passenger side locked automatically. A week later, it started working again. Now yesterday...same problem exactly. Any suggestions. I have not checked fuses or anything, but doesn't one fuse run both doors?

hah when it snowed and got icy here i went to put my key in...and pushed the whole lock in!

im having the same issue. cant figure out what it is. just joined to see if i can find some relief.

Wow, thread ressurection.

Anyway, this happened to me just recently. I just made the appointment today at the dealership. Thank you 100,000 mile warranty.

I just bought an '03 EX coupe and the only problem I've been trying to deal with so far is exactly like the one described above. I figured I'd go ahead and register (been lurking since I bought the car...lots of good info so far=) ) so I can see if there's been any follow up on this.

I just finished taking off and replacing the D side door panel and I had no luck at all. Honestly, this is the first car that I've tried to work on myself that has power locks, so I wasn't even sure where to find the actuator.

I'd say the lock is fairly stiff. I can hear a bit of solenoid-like activity near the door handle when I try to activate the locks, but nothing happens. Passenger side works as it should (as long as I manually lock or unlock the driver side to the required position)

I would rather not take this somewhere to have it fixed since I'll probably get charged a couple hundred just in labor hours. Any advice from someone who has replaced your own actuators, perhaps?

Wow...four years later and I'm still getting notified of new posts...

Go ahead and swap it out. Easy, easy. You'll scrape your knuckles, but the hard stuff's done once you get the panel off.

I'm sorry I don't remember any more details, but I think I DO remember that the two sides use different part numbers.

Have fun.

Hey, Ya'all could check out my "adding power door locks" DIY thread in the 7th-gen forums..... LOL

Check the voltage on the wire with a multimeter.

the problem with your locks is the actuator. its a very common problem on the 7th gen civics. i had mine replaced under warranty a few year back.

good luck.

Thanks for the follow-up guys! Looks like it's back to the garage then...busted knuckle time. No big...I'll just do it when I reupholster the door panels. =)

I'll get my intro post up when I have a minute.

almsot 100% sure its the actuator. i replace mine already.

it's the actuator, i replaced mine a few months ago. It's always the driver side that goes out for some reason..

i think mines out on the car..been around a yr like that..drivers side also too..been too lazy lol

mine was out 4 2 yrs till i finally fixed it. Tired of using the key to open my door

i got accustomed to doing so..also my remote start wont work.heck havent even fixed that lol..maybe i should fix it since i got a hefty amount left over from tax returns

my actuator's been out for a few months now, i can't imagine having it out for 2 years!....i got a bunch of peripheral crap failing on me...first my actuator gave out, then my tps sensor(definate ouch...but fixed nonetheless), then my trunk latch finally broke down...then my damn hood prop clip broke! wah! bitch bitch bitch.
I know it's a known known...but I just gotta say if anyone's looking for oem honda parts, go to hondaautomotiveparts.com...good deals to be had, that's where my laundry list begins. i'm gettin' that actuator and trunk latch on order tonight.

their shipping rates suck..i found that its cheaper getting it at the stealership most of the times..if not the same..

hmm, you're right...if I had just paid @ the dealership and TN state tax(9.75%),...it's a difference of 11 dollars. But the nearest dealership to me is like a 40 minute drive. Too long, too late too bad =( I'd rather someone just bring it to me though. But since you pointed it out I'll probably think twice before ordering something from Rhode Island again, any state willing to keep a Quagmire is pretty skanky anyway in my opinion.

So...I guess I wasn't thinking when I decided to save a couple bucks by buying my new locking assembly from the auto salvage down the street. It took me an hour to get the blasted door handle linkage apart and remove the old actuator, then the one from the salvage yard didn't even work. In fact, it worked less than the one that I removed since the new one didn't even make noise XD. So, two hours later I'm racing back to the yard, face wrenched with anger, hands cut to ribbons and with my door still taken apart. At least they refunded the money...and if nothing else I'm an expert at replacing the assembly now. =/

Since my current/old actuator -does- make a locking sound when I try the power locks, I'm thinking maybe it's not dead anyway. At this point, I'm leaving that project alone for a little while =|

a lot of problem with power lock, power window, headlights, and i would say truck latch .i gone through many of these. i am going through power locks problem again. so many issues makes me feeling like trading her in. even though i just finish fixing her back. if i trade her possible get a bmw m3 or 3 series, tsx, tl, is300 (need a 4dr)

yea man you always gotta be leery of getting anything electrical or something with electrical components in it out of a junked car. Now, you probably did save some money over buying new but just all that time wasted. Sorry for the lack of luck though and I understand your mentality cause sometimes you can find that diamond in the rough.