Changing the oil (first time)
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Changing the oil (first time)
Hey, this is my first time on changing the oil, is there any tips I should know?
All I know is start the engine and let the oil warm up a bit then drain it.
My Q's are when u take out the plug, does the oil shoot out or slowly drain out? Is it hard to get to the oil filter?
Most important: This is a brand new car....and it just reached 3,000 miles last week. The oil int he engine was 5w-30. Should I stwich to full syn since it after the break in period? But the Oil cap says 5w-30.....?
All I know is start the engine and let the oil warm up a bit then drain it.
My Q's are when u take out the plug, does the oil shoot out or slowly drain out? Is it hard to get to the oil filter?
Most important: This is a brand new car....and it just reached 3,000 miles last week. The oil int he engine was 5w-30. Should I stwich to full syn since it after the break in period? But the Oil cap says 5w-30.....?
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 You can still get synthetic that's 5w-30. But I would stay with traditional oil on your car anyway.
The oil somewhat shoots out, but just slide the catch tank a lil ways back (bout half a foot) and that should help. Removing the oil cap on the top of the engine will allow the oil to drain faster as well.
The oil filter... While laying underneath the car, slide back so your at the back of the motor. Look way up there and you'll see it. You can take it off with your hands, it isn't really torqued on at all.
BTW - The oil drain bolt is 17mm.
The oil somewhat shoots out, but just slide the catch tank a lil ways back (bout half a foot) and that should help. Removing the oil cap on the top of the engine will allow the oil to drain faster as well.
The oil filter... While laying underneath the car, slide back so your at the back of the motor. Look way up there and you'll see it. You can take it off with your hands, it isn't really torqued on at all.
BTW - The oil drain bolt is 17mm.
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 0 Wow man thanks....But I want my Civic to last forever....in my other engines I only use full syn oil but this is my first car so I dont know what to do....
Also, is it hard to find the oil drain bolt? It should be in the middle right?
Also, is it hard to find the oil drain bolt? It should be in the middle right?
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 MAD EASY lol. Look at the oil pan towards the back, it's right there in the open. Even has an oil pointing to it.
If you must go with synthetic, Mobile 1 SuperSyn. Awesome oil.
I also reccomend K&N, Mobile, or the better Purolator oil filters. Get something with an efficiency rating of over 98% either way. Im running boost and will be road racing the hell out of my car this year so I ordered the K&N filter. Only 92% efficency rating but a 550psi blowout rating, with a treated shell to help take road debri (where the filter is located I don't think road debri will be an issue lol). The K&N has a large flow rate which would help high performing engines.
If you must go with synthetic, Mobile 1 SuperSyn. Awesome oil.
I also reccomend K&N, Mobile, or the better Purolator oil filters. Get something with an efficiency rating of over 98% either way. Im running boost and will be road racing the hell out of my car this year so I ordered the K&N filter. Only 92% efficency rating but a 550psi blowout rating, with a treated shell to help take road debri (where the filter is located I don't think road debri will be an issue lol). The K&N has a large flow rate which would help high performing engines.
DUDE
mark my word...
get MOBIL 1 0W20, it's the best for our car....(erh...in term of $$)
the real term for best? there are lots....the purple thingie is good.
but it's gonna cost ya $70 for every oil change...expensive, ya?
5W30 is OK, but it's for temporary use...
M1 0W20 is applicable for 5W20 (our civic)....hence, it's the best choice..
if you decide to use FRAM filter....i suggest for you to go to Wal-Mart for oil change...
depends on your local wal-mart....mine cost $30..
that is:
Oil change with 5 quarts of Synthetic Oil, you can choose whatever on the shelves...
>>they will definitely match the amount of oil needed on our vics..
FRAM oil filter...
15 points regular inspections.....u know, lights, wiper, oil this, oil that...blabla...
and of coarse, the labor....
good deal?
Oh yeah, don't forget to tell the clerk...NOT to overfill our engine....sometimes, they do that.
and it sucks. don't forget this one.
consider rotating your tires too! therefore, you can maintain your tires life...
anyway, what's your tires? still on stock? FireStone FR690?
if it's true, just dump that freaking tires.....it might leads you to an accident..
FR690 --> the WORST tires EVER. LOWEST rank in tirerack.com
can you believe it? it's our stock tires......OMG.
mark my word...
get MOBIL 1 0W20, it's the best for our car....(erh...in term of $$)
the real term for best? there are lots....the purple thingie is good.
but it's gonna cost ya $70 for every oil change...expensive, ya?
5W30 is OK, but it's for temporary use...
M1 0W20 is applicable for 5W20 (our civic)....hence, it's the best choice..
if you decide to use FRAM filter....i suggest for you to go to Wal-Mart for oil change...
depends on your local wal-mart....mine cost $30..
that is:
Oil change with 5 quarts of Synthetic Oil, you can choose whatever on the shelves...
>>they will definitely match the amount of oil needed on our vics..
FRAM oil filter...
15 points regular inspections.....u know, lights, wiper, oil this, oil that...blabla...
and of coarse, the labor....
good deal?
Oh yeah, don't forget to tell the clerk...NOT to overfill our engine....sometimes, they do that.
and it sucks. don't forget this one.
consider rotating your tires too! therefore, you can maintain your tires life...
anyway, what's your tires? still on stock? FireStone FR690?
if it's true, just dump that freaking tires.....it might leads you to an accident..
FR690 --> the WORST tires EVER. LOWEST rank in tirerack.com
can you believe it? it's our stock tires......OMG.
Last edited by zen_master; Apr 17, 2004 at 04:07 AM.
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Rep Power: 315 I also use Mobil1 0w20. It's made for our type of motor and works great in summer or winter.
Tips:
Get a new oil plug crush washer each time you change the oil. Better yet, get a pack of them and keep them in the glove box or trunk for future changes.
If you have some ramps, pull the car up on them to make it easier to get underneath. Chock the back wheels with a rock or brick so that it doesn't roll. Use the emergency brake too. While you're pulling up on the ramps, the oil will warm up and flow better, especially in the winter.
Open the hood and take off the oil filler cap before you take out the drain plug. This allows air to come in from the other side and keeps the oil from gurgling out.
Get a pan for the oil and remove the plug and washer. Throw away the washer and get a new one. Reuse the drain plug.
Once the oil is drained, put the oil catch pan under the filter and remove the filter. It'll drip some oil also. Change the filter everytime you change the oil. It's cheap protection.
Get the new filter and put some oil on the rubber gasket. This helps seal it to the motor. Install the filter snugly to avoid leaks.
Put the drain plug and washer back on the oil pan BY HAND. DO NOT STRIP THE THREADS or you'll be buying a new oil pan.
Using a funnel to avoid spills, fill it with 3.4quarts on the DX/LX or 3.7quarts on the EX/HX.
Put the oil cap back on and crank it up. The oil light should go out in a second or two. Pull off the ramps, turn it off and let it sit for a couple minutes so the oil can drain back down. Check the level with the dipstick and fill if necessary.
You're done. Dispose of the used oil properly by taking it to an oil change place that will take it.
Tips:
Get a new oil plug crush washer each time you change the oil. Better yet, get a pack of them and keep them in the glove box or trunk for future changes.
If you have some ramps, pull the car up on them to make it easier to get underneath. Chock the back wheels with a rock or brick so that it doesn't roll. Use the emergency brake too. While you're pulling up on the ramps, the oil will warm up and flow better, especially in the winter.
Open the hood and take off the oil filler cap before you take out the drain plug. This allows air to come in from the other side and keeps the oil from gurgling out.
Get a pan for the oil and remove the plug and washer. Throw away the washer and get a new one. Reuse the drain plug.
Once the oil is drained, put the oil catch pan under the filter and remove the filter. It'll drip some oil also. Change the filter everytime you change the oil. It's cheap protection.
Get the new filter and put some oil on the rubber gasket. This helps seal it to the motor. Install the filter snugly to avoid leaks.
Put the drain plug and washer back on the oil pan BY HAND. DO NOT STRIP THE THREADS or you'll be buying a new oil pan.
Using a funnel to avoid spills, fill it with 3.4quarts on the DX/LX or 3.7quarts on the EX/HX.
Put the oil cap back on and crank it up. The oil light should go out in a second or two. Pull off the ramps, turn it off and let it sit for a couple minutes so the oil can drain back down. Check the level with the dipstick and fill if necessary.
You're done. Dispose of the used oil properly by taking it to an oil change place that will take it.
Last edited by Bellz; Apr 17, 2004 at 07:56 AM.
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Rep Power: 315 Yes I have, and no, I wouldn't use a tap on an aluminum oil pan. You'd still have to take it loose to keep from getting metal filings in the pan. Don't strip the threads and you won't have to deal with the problem.
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 I agree with you 100%. It seems very hard to strip those threads though lol. You can screw it in by hand then just torque it down in the end.
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Rep Power: 0 Thanks you guys....I will probablly bring it to a shop and buy some M1 for them...I dont have ramps and only have one jack....
Ok, what if they overfill your engine? what will happen? Oil will spray out of the dip stick? Or will engine be harmed?
Ok, what if they overfill your engine? what will happen? Oil will spray out of the dip stick? Or will engine be harmed?
he..
this is the problem in my car..
i bought it from a toyota dealer.....
I assume that they did not change my oil with 5W20 or 0W20.
I do also believe that they did not use synthetic oil...
AND..the worst..
I think they overfill my oil.....i looked at the dip stick....it's above the second hole..
damn those guys...maybe they though it's the same amount as corolla...
F@!#
this is the problem in my car..
i bought it from a toyota dealer.....
I assume that they did not change my oil with 5W20 or 0W20.
I do also believe that they did not use synthetic oil...
AND..the worst..
I think they overfill my oil.....i looked at the dip stick....it's above the second hole..
damn those guys...maybe they though it's the same amount as corolla...
F@!#
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From: Oklahoma
Rep Power: 304 My first oil change on the vic was so easy I felt stupid for putting it off. Hardest part is preparation. Making sure you have everything you need on hand and close by.
Otherwise the above suggestions are excellent! And should have you changing your oil in no time.
Otherwise the above suggestions are excellent! And should have you changing your oil in no time.
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Rep Power: 285 stick to the suggested weight in my opinion... if your car was factory filled with 5w-30, 0w-20 will not work..0w-20 is a replacement for 5w-20 according to mobil1...even then... your going against the manual by using a different weight, even if mobil says its ok..... and its funny how people in this thread are trying to pass opinions off as facts.. with absolutely 0 proof... my only suggestion is to stick with conventional oil for one more oil change, the engine isnt fully broken in till 3750 as per honda.. there wont be much advantage to switching to synthetic at 3k.. but there could be some negatives if the engine isnt fully broken in .. so play it safe.. theres no rush to use synthetic... also, go to the dealer, pick up a few new crush washers and replace it every time you change the oil, they just give them to me for free at my local dealer.
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From: Woostah
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0-20w is pretty thin oil... Not something I would use it in 90'+ driving...
My advice? Use what the owners manual recommends. There is a reason why they are recommending it!!!!!
My advice? Use what the owners manual recommends. There is a reason why they are recommending it!!!!!
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 If it was me, I'd be leaving that first fill of oil in until 5000 miles like Honda says to. There's extra molybendium (assembly lube) in it from when the engine was assembled and it helps to break the motor in. Given that, I'd rather have that stuff in there for as long as they say to keep it in there.
Then I'd pour 5W-30 in, not synthetic the first time... but definately by 10K, I'd have Mobil 1 in the car.
Of course there are multiple theories about when to go synthetic...
Then I'd pour 5W-30 in, not synthetic the first time... but definately by 10K, I'd have Mobil 1 in the car.
Of course there are multiple theories about when to go synthetic...
i have 41000 miles on my car and used 0W20 mobile for the past two changes and i live in texas where the weather is getting hot so i plan on changing to mobile 5W30 before i go to the coast! is that good?
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Rep Power: 285 look for cracks? no... there is no reason not to replace the washer every oil change, if you cant get the washer off the bolt, chances are its compressed so much that it needs to be changed now more than ever. you could probably get away doing it every other change.. but i cant really think of why i wouldnt do it.. i mean.. you should take it off anyways when you clean off the drain bolt and the washer itself.. i guess im just a freak about doin this stuff and everything has to be perfect
oh yea, prccivic, it could stick to the pan. and having it done at honda, id hope theyd torque down the bolt properly so you wouldnt have to worry about the pan threads stretching, so them not using a washer, while not ok, shouldnt do harm
oh yea, prccivic, it could stick to the pan. and having it done at honda, id hope theyd torque down the bolt properly so you wouldnt have to worry about the pan threads stretching, so them not using a washer, while not ok, shouldnt do harm
Last edited by ctx66; May 19, 2004 at 02:02 AM.
Originally Posted by draganjr
i have 41000 miles on my car and used 0W20 mobile for the past two changes and i live in texas where the weather is getting hot so i plan on changing to mobile 5W30 before i go to the coast! is that good?
0W20 in Texas, yo! hehehe
Originally Posted by zen_master
im counting on you, bro!!
0W20 in Texas, yo! hehehe
0W20 in Texas, yo! hehehe
What do you mean you are counting on me?
So I am going with 5W30 Mobile Sync. If bad idea just let me know!
thanks!
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From: Woostah
Rep Power: 413 On my 01 EX I never changed the washer. It had 90K miles on it and I always changed the oil myself (never had a place do it). I had no issues with it, or stripping threads in the pan (and I cranked it on sometimes)... Guess I was lucky?
and I ran cheapo 5w-30 in it...
and I ran cheapo 5w-30 in it...
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Rep Power: 285 not necessairily (i hacked that word apart. spelling, i know.). all that really means is you properly torqued down the bolt, so the threads never had a chance to stretch. all the crush washer does is absorb the extra force insted of the threads in the pan whether it be all at once, or slowly over time
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From: somewhere
Rep Power: 0 M1 0w20 is the best oil for our cars. Ive seen plenty of si's use this oil, and it holds up real well in them. Our engines like a thin oil(hence the 20wt usage), and the m1 0w20 meets all honda specs. Imo, use the m1 0w20 and change it twice a year or every 7000 miles(in between the severe and normal maitenance conditions). Hope this helps.
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From: SoCal OC / LA / San Diego
Rep Power: 273 Boooo to all who recommend FRAM filters.
The "Wall of orange," at the cheaper Auto Parts stores pisses me off to no end. I went through about a week of intense research at different places. Things I found:
1: Oil Filters, not oil, are the problem with most people. Spend the 5 more bucks and get a GOOD filter. The best IMHO, and in the research are the Mobil 1 filters and K&N (Mobil filters better, K&N has higher flow rates for racing).
2: Anything fram makes, save the X-2 is crap. Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ and the pics they have of filters cut away. Fram's use cardboard endcaps and crappy filter media. horribly constructed bypass valves ensure that if the filter ever gets temperamental, you'll have bypass and not filtration. Everyone else seems to have agreed that Cardboard sucks, and in Fram's X-2 filters which are marginally as good as a motorcraft or champion or wix, they use the regular metal caps.
3: I use red line 5w-20 synthetic. Yes, redline makes 5w-20. All you gotta do is call the factory up, and you can get it shipped to you for like 7.75 a quart, but it is well worth it. It's got plenty of moly just like the honda spec stuff, and as long as you change the filter with a good one every 3K miles you can do a 6k or 7500 mile drain interval. What I'm doing now is changing the filter every 3, replacing the .5 qt I lose in there, and then fully changing every 6. The stuff just doesnt' break down, and it was cooler than all hell to have the fedex guy walk up to my door and hand me a case of oil.
Hope that helps.
The "Wall of orange," at the cheaper Auto Parts stores pisses me off to no end. I went through about a week of intense research at different places. Things I found:
1: Oil Filters, not oil, are the problem with most people. Spend the 5 more bucks and get a GOOD filter. The best IMHO, and in the research are the Mobil 1 filters and K&N (Mobil filters better, K&N has higher flow rates for racing).
2: Anything fram makes, save the X-2 is crap. Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ and the pics they have of filters cut away. Fram's use cardboard endcaps and crappy filter media. horribly constructed bypass valves ensure that if the filter ever gets temperamental, you'll have bypass and not filtration. Everyone else seems to have agreed that Cardboard sucks, and in Fram's X-2 filters which are marginally as good as a motorcraft or champion or wix, they use the regular metal caps.
3: I use red line 5w-20 synthetic. Yes, redline makes 5w-20. All you gotta do is call the factory up, and you can get it shipped to you for like 7.75 a quart, but it is well worth it. It's got plenty of moly just like the honda spec stuff, and as long as you change the filter with a good one every 3K miles you can do a 6k or 7500 mile drain interval. What I'm doing now is changing the filter every 3, replacing the .5 qt I lose in there, and then fully changing every 6. The stuff just doesnt' break down, and it was cooler than all hell to have the fedex guy walk up to my door and hand me a case of oil.
Hope that helps.
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From: SoCal OC / LA / San Diego
Rep Power: 273 Oops, forgot to say...
theres a REASON honda says not to change your oil the first time till 5k+ miles...
the oil they put in at the factory is loaded with Moly and other special additives to help the break in process happen better. The manual says wait 5K on your first change, and I actually waited till about 6K before I had the factory redo it with more honda stock fluid (Loaded with Moly, again). At 14500 I did the afforementioned synthetic change to redline and has been running GREAT ever since. I think you could go to full synth when you are confident the rings have properly seated in the engine... 8-10K should be fine, depending on how you drive it.
theres a REASON honda says not to change your oil the first time till 5k+ miles...
the oil they put in at the factory is loaded with Moly and other special additives to help the break in process happen better. The manual says wait 5K on your first change, and I actually waited till about 6K before I had the factory redo it with more honda stock fluid (Loaded with Moly, again). At 14500 I did the afforementioned synthetic change to redline and has been running GREAT ever since. I think you could go to full synth when you are confident the rings have properly seated in the engine... 8-10K should be fine, depending on how you drive it.
