DIY rear tie bar
DIY rear tie bar
reading some articles on teamintegra.net, they have a DIY rear tie bar that bolts itself to the rear abs line bracket bolts.
i wanna do the same.
could i bolt a steel or aluminum tube from one bolt to the other (the ones that fasten the rear sway to the rear suspension) goin across to stiffen up the rear suspension?
i wanna do the same.
could i bolt a steel or aluminum tube from one bolt to the other (the ones that fasten the rear sway to the rear suspension) goin across to stiffen up the rear suspension?
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are you talking about a lower tie bar? from what i understand, i don't think the ABS line bracket bolts are gonna be strong enough. the tie bar is specifically positioned between the lower arm bolts to stiffen the lower part of the chassis. you're better off getting an EBay brand tie bar if you're that broke (no offense to you cuz i have an EBay tie bar... i'm broke as a ****).
no i didnt mean bolt to the abs line brackets (dont think we have ABS in the back, might be wrong).
im was thinking of bolting a bar using the locations of the fasteners of the rear sway bar. i would have to buy new bolts that are longer, but yeah.
yeah im talkin bout a lower tie bar
im was thinking of bolting a bar using the locations of the fasteners of the rear sway bar. i would have to buy new bolts that are longer, but yeah.
yeah im talkin bout a lower tie bar
i serached for some lower tie bar pics, and i noticed that they use the bolting locations of the bolt right below the ones used to hold the sway bar in. but the bolt is indented in the lower suspension chassis part thingy, so how could i adapt a bar that goes straight across that also accomodates for the indented bolt location?
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You can't unless you bend/punch the ends in. But I have a CAD drawing of a bar that accomodates the depressed bolt landings
.... just haven't gotten around to actually machining one yet.
.... just haven't gotten around to actually machining one yet. Joined: Jul 2002
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Every extra piece you put in adds more flex. Besides that, the bolt is only so long. Instead of ghetto rigging something, just buy a bar.
Originally posted by Boilermaker1
Every extra piece you put in adds more flex.
Every extra piece you put in adds more flex.
) Besides that, the bolt is only so long.
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Go back to the DC vs Neuspeed bar argument for a sec....
the DC bar has lots of pieces and it sucks because everything moves. The neuspeed one is 1 piece and doesn't move a whole lot.
If you stick a spacer block in there to get the bolts out of the recess, then you put 2 new joints on the bar, one on each side. That gives the actual tie bar room to flex in all directions, even if you have it tightened down. Going with 1 piece prevents anything from flexing, and that bar doesn't do much to stiffen it anyways, it just keeps it together if the sway bar is real big. I'd also be kinda careful about putting different bolts in the LCA. Those bolts are probably hardened and tempered, and thats a bolt you don't want shearing off...
the DC bar has lots of pieces and it sucks because everything moves. The neuspeed one is 1 piece and doesn't move a whole lot.
If you stick a spacer block in there to get the bolts out of the recess, then you put 2 new joints on the bar, one on each side. That gives the actual tie bar room to flex in all directions, even if you have it tightened down. Going with 1 piece prevents anything from flexing, and that bar doesn't do much to stiffen it anyways, it just keeps it together if the sway bar is real big. I'd also be kinda careful about putting different bolts in the LCA. Those bolts are probably hardened and tempered, and thats a bolt you don't want shearing off...
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