Best Synthetic Motor Oil?
Thread Starter
Registered!!
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 0
From: San Hoe, California
Rep Power: 0 
Best Synthetic Motor Oil?
What is the best Motor Oil (synthetic)?
A. Mobil 1
B. Royal Purple
C. Amsoil
D. Redline
E. Valvoline
F. Castrol
G. Other
H. I don't really care!
A. Mobil 1
B. Royal Purple
C. Amsoil
D. Redline
E. Valvoline
F. Castrol
G. Other
H. I don't really care!
That is not an ordinary rabbit tis the most foul cruel beast
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,579
Likes: 0
From: California
Rep Power: 319 
my father has a phd in chemistry and went into high detail to me about this stuff, that basically came down to this conclusion...
They infact are all the same... least I think thats what he meant
so doesnt matter which you choose. my personal preffernce, by name is Castrol.
They infact are all the same... least I think thats what he meant
so doesnt matter which you choose. my personal preffernce, by name is Castrol.
I talked to a guy i know thats owned many corvettes, and fast cars, right now he has a harley v-rod in his garage, he told me that they there is no difference in synthetic vs. regular oil. Two exact engines were ran to 100k miles one with synthetic and one with regular oil, both engines wore at the same rate and were in the same condition.
Registered!!
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Southwestern Ontario
Rep Power: 0 Be CAREFUL of Castrol Syntec. It is a Type III synthetic which means it was created from mineral oil and modified to be a synthetic. It did not start life out in the lab such as Amsoil or Mobil 1.
By the way it's MOBIL, not MOBILE.
By the way it's MOBIL, not MOBILE.
Thread Starter
Registered!!
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 0
From: San Hoe, California
Rep Power: 0 ^^ that's what I put didn't I? anyway, yea I know the Castrol Syntec is not really a synthetic.. I mean.. unlike what you said.. amsoil, mobil 1 or royal purple.... I am debating between mobil 1 and royal purple.. it is hard to find mobil1 synthetic oil (5w-30) here in my place though...
what is a good filter then? is it gonna make any diff. if I use smaller or bigger filter?
what is a good filter then? is it gonna make any diff. if I use smaller or bigger filter?
Registered!!
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 Audioquest,
I understand the Castrol arguments but it isn't that clear. Not all Syntecs are organic such as their German produced 0W-30. It meets the European A3 specs which is a good thing.
People are PO'd at Castrol for what they consider to be less then honest adverstising but on which side one sits is dependant on how you define 'synthetic.'
If it means to create something from scratch i.e., make oil without using organic material then it isn't synthetic but if it means to synthesize something then it clearly is a synthentic. Symantics. It's all about symantics.
Even that doesn't answer all the questions because if you take an all synthetic oil it still isn't 100% synthetic. The basestocks are synthetic but all (Mobil, Castrol, Redline, Amsoil and the others) contain organic additives such as boron, calcium and other things found on the periodic chart which are added to minimize foaming, wear, acid build up and so forth. No oil is 100% synthetic.
The label doesn't matter so much as performance based on used oil analysis. Castrol does better in some engines than Mobil 1. RP might do pretty well compared to something else. The possibilities are nearly endless.
I understand the Castrol arguments but it isn't that clear. Not all Syntecs are organic such as their German produced 0W-30. It meets the European A3 specs which is a good thing.
People are PO'd at Castrol for what they consider to be less then honest adverstising but on which side one sits is dependant on how you define 'synthetic.'
If it means to create something from scratch i.e., make oil without using organic material then it isn't synthetic but if it means to synthesize something then it clearly is a synthentic. Symantics. It's all about symantics.
Even that doesn't answer all the questions because if you take an all synthetic oil it still isn't 100% synthetic. The basestocks are synthetic but all (Mobil, Castrol, Redline, Amsoil and the others) contain organic additives such as boron, calcium and other things found on the periodic chart which are added to minimize foaming, wear, acid build up and so forth. No oil is 100% synthetic.
The label doesn't matter so much as performance based on used oil analysis. Castrol does better in some engines than Mobil 1. RP might do pretty well compared to something else. The possibilities are nearly endless.
Registered!!
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 pnoiracer,
You can find M1 0W-20 at Pep Boys. I just there this morning.
Their 5W-30 can be found at Kmart, Target, Wally World or any auto parts store.
Either K&N (generally has to be ordered) or Mobil 1 are great filters. The M1 recommended filter is the 110 but the plus one size is the 104. I run the 104.
You can find M1 0W-20 at Pep Boys. I just there this morning.
Their 5W-30 can be found at Kmart, Target, Wally World or any auto parts store.
Either K&N (generally has to be ordered) or Mobil 1 are great filters. The M1 recommended filter is the 110 but the plus one size is the 104. I run the 104.
Registered!!
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,024
Likes: 1
From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 313 Originally posted by Flashlightboy
Audioquest,
I understand the Castrol arguments but it isn't that clear. Not all Syntecs are organic such as their German produced 0W-30. It meets the European A3 specs which is a good thing.
People are PO'd at Castrol for what they consider to be less then honest adverstising but on which side one sits is dependant on how you define 'synthetic.'
If it means to create something from scratch i.e., make oil without using organic material then it isn't synthetic but if it means to synthesize something then it clearly is a synthentic. Symantics. It's all about symantics.
Even that doesn't answer all the questions because if you take an all synthetic oil it still isn't 100% synthetic. The basestocks are synthetic but all (Mobil, Castrol, Redline, Amsoil and the others) contain organic additives such as boron, calcium and other things found on the periodic chart which are added to minimize foaming, wear, acid build up and so forth. No oil is 100% synthetic.
The label doesn't matter so much as performance based on used oil analysis. Castrol does better in some engines than Mobil 1. RP might do pretty well compared to something else. The possibilities are nearly endless.
Audioquest,
I understand the Castrol arguments but it isn't that clear. Not all Syntecs are organic such as their German produced 0W-30. It meets the European A3 specs which is a good thing.
People are PO'd at Castrol for what they consider to be less then honest adverstising but on which side one sits is dependant on how you define 'synthetic.'
If it means to create something from scratch i.e., make oil without using organic material then it isn't synthetic but if it means to synthesize something then it clearly is a synthentic. Symantics. It's all about symantics.
Even that doesn't answer all the questions because if you take an all synthetic oil it still isn't 100% synthetic. The basestocks are synthetic but all (Mobil, Castrol, Redline, Amsoil and the others) contain organic additives such as boron, calcium and other things found on the periodic chart which are added to minimize foaming, wear, acid build up and so forth. No oil is 100% synthetic.
The label doesn't matter so much as performance based on used oil analysis. Castrol does better in some engines than Mobil 1. RP might do pretty well compared to something else. The possibilities are nearly endless.
Best site to check out about oil is: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
You can order your own free oil test kit (can't remember the site right now) to perform an oil analysis on the oil from your car - this is the only way to be sure if your oil is performing as it should be. The collected data on this site shows that royal purple sucks ***, and that mobil 1 performed the best. There are others that are good as well, but if you are looking for the BEST oil, go with mobil 1.....
Thread Starter
Registered!!
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 0
From: San Hoe, California
Rep Power: 0 OK I would go for mobil 1.. now, how about filter? I couldn't find them in neither pepboys nor kragen... my previous question was not answered... how is it gonna affect if I use a smaller/bigger filter?
Registered!!
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 pinoiracer,
AutoZone is the place for M1 filters. If you're paranoid concerned with warranty coverage you could use the 110 but if want to go with a larger filter, use the 104.
This isn't a farfetched idea because the 104 sized filter was the only filter up until the 2001 year when they switched to the 110. The 104 still is the filter for the S2000 and other Hondas and even Honda issued a memo to dealers a couple of years ago telling them that 80 mm filters (104 sized) are a perfectly acceptable alternate to the newer 65 mm (110 sized) filters.
If it makes you feel any better you could go to your local dealer and talk to them about it but either filter will work very well. Or you could call Mobil and ask them but others I know that have done this have received the Mobil blessing too.
I use the 104 because it holds about a 1/4 quart more oil but it has a greater filtering media area. AutoZone can also order you the K&N versions of both if you're interested.
AutoZone is the place for M1 filters. If you're paranoid concerned with warranty coverage you could use the 110 but if want to go with a larger filter, use the 104.
This isn't a farfetched idea because the 104 sized filter was the only filter up until the 2001 year when they switched to the 110. The 104 still is the filter for the S2000 and other Hondas and even Honda issued a memo to dealers a couple of years ago telling them that 80 mm filters (104 sized) are a perfectly acceptable alternate to the newer 65 mm (110 sized) filters.
If it makes you feel any better you could go to your local dealer and talk to them about it but either filter will work very well. Or you could call Mobil and ask them but others I know that have done this have received the Mobil blessing too.
I use the 104 because it holds about a 1/4 quart more oil but it has a greater filtering media area. AutoZone can also order you the K&N versions of both if you're interested.
BOOST JUNKY
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,759
Likes: 0
From: Wide Open Throttle
Rep Power: 0 Personally, I've always stuck with 10w30 royal purple or mobil 1 synth. There's a really good thread about this on honda-tech or was it fresh alloy? I dunno. But search people. Good info on both of those sites. 
well I use Mobil 1. But.....synthetic oil is meant to last longer. Regular just has that normal life span. The number one reason oil breaks down is H2O...yep water. When many of us start our cars....drive 10 min to school or work or to our friends house then shut off our cars, we have breakdown. Condensation forms in our valve covers which mixes in with the oil if it isn't evaporated. Your oil will last alot longer if you drive alot on the highway. Engine temps raise and stay at a constant....evporating the condensation. Stop and go driving doesn't evaporate the water so it gets in the oil and reeks havok. That is why our oil turn black. Water is bad!
Registered!!
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 900
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Rep Power: 0 Wow, I always have used Castrol syntec. Now if I change to Mobil 1 will it hurt your engine to change synthetics or is that just for us oldies who went from normal to syn and messed things up?
Registered!!
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 crackhead,
Using Castrol hasn't messed anything up in your engine. To a large degree regular oil changes with a high quality oil are more important than a syn that is neglected.
You can safely and comfortably use syn at any time. Changing to M1 won't hurt your engine at all! Remember that oil and filter technology has changed enormously in the last few years - take advangtage of it to your cars delight!
I currently use Redline 5W-20 and the M1 104 filter in my 03 EX. Redline is expensive oil and at 5k change intervals I'm getting among the best oil performance their is but I'm probably changing it too soon because their additive package is that good. Nevertheless, I still suggest 5k intervals because it's easier to keep track of on your odometer or I'd change it every 6 months whichever comes first.
PLEASE don't buy into the hype of IffyLube and other quick change places that you need to change your oil every 3k. In the past that was a good practice but now it's just a scare tactic to get you to part with more of your money sooner and more often.
Since RL is harder to find than other brands, I'd suggest using M1 0W-20 or their 5W-30 if want to use a syn. You could use the Purlator Pure One filter which gives good performance at about half the cost of the M1.
If you want to use dino oil you should consider Havoline 5W-20, Pennzoil or Chevron. Even Castrol does well in UOAs. Remember that all currently marketed 5W-20 oils are formulated to meet the latest Honda and Ford specs which is what our cars call for.
Using Castrol hasn't messed anything up in your engine. To a large degree regular oil changes with a high quality oil are more important than a syn that is neglected.
You can safely and comfortably use syn at any time. Changing to M1 won't hurt your engine at all! Remember that oil and filter technology has changed enormously in the last few years - take advangtage of it to your cars delight!
I currently use Redline 5W-20 and the M1 104 filter in my 03 EX. Redline is expensive oil and at 5k change intervals I'm getting among the best oil performance their is but I'm probably changing it too soon because their additive package is that good. Nevertheless, I still suggest 5k intervals because it's easier to keep track of on your odometer or I'd change it every 6 months whichever comes first.
PLEASE don't buy into the hype of IffyLube and other quick change places that you need to change your oil every 3k. In the past that was a good practice but now it's just a scare tactic to get you to part with more of your money sooner and more often.
Since RL is harder to find than other brands, I'd suggest using M1 0W-20 or their 5W-30 if want to use a syn. You could use the Purlator Pure One filter which gives good performance at about half the cost of the M1.
If you want to use dino oil you should consider Havoline 5W-20, Pennzoil or Chevron. Even Castrol does well in UOAs. Remember that all currently marketed 5W-20 oils are formulated to meet the latest Honda and Ford specs which is what our cars call for.
Last edited by Flashlightboy; Feb 27, 2004 at 10:43 PM.
