Spark Plug Gappin'
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Rep Power: 0 
Spark Plug Gappin'
As temprature went back up to more of a humane level in Toronto today i went out and tried to buy myself a spark plug gapper from candian tire, but to find they don't have one with .11mm they are either .01 over or under.....so i dunno what i am gonna do. can i just use a penny instead?
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 
I thought only the iridiums were pregapped. I just changed the plugs in my mom's 92 accord and they were also .11--had to get a special gapper. They should have them at most auto stores. It's a round disc with U shaped wires coming off the sides.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 No, that just means the plug won't work in the car. Each engine needs a plug with certain gap to function. Iridiums supposedly work better due to a smaller center electrode. Gap has nothing to do with it.
Registered!!
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 4
From: Fort Oglethorpe
Rep Power: 315 Unless you've done some major headwork or piston swaps that justify changing the gap on the plugs, do what the manual says and gap them at .04 INCHES or 1.1 Millimeters. If anyone hasn't figured that out, it's the same thing. One is standard and the other is metric.
And there's a lot of difference between .40 and .04, and it's INCHES, not MM.
.04 in. is the proper gap. Thats 4/100ths of an inch.
.40 in. would be 4/10ths of an inch and WRONG. My gapping disk only goes up to .10 (1/10th). .40 is almost HALF AN INCH!
If you'll get one of those cheap gapping disks at Autozone, they have metric on one side and standard on the other. This isn't rocket science. If they're not pre-gapped to the manual's specs, gap them properly with the tool and put them in.
The Denso Iridium's that I used WERE pregapped and I checked each one to make sure.
And there's a lot of difference between .40 and .04, and it's INCHES, not MM.
.04 in. is the proper gap. Thats 4/100ths of an inch.
.40 in. would be 4/10ths of an inch and WRONG. My gapping disk only goes up to .10 (1/10th). .40 is almost HALF AN INCH!
If you'll get one of those cheap gapping disks at Autozone, they have metric on one side and standard on the other. This isn't rocket science. If they're not pre-gapped to the manual's specs, gap them properly with the tool and put them in.
The Denso Iridium's that I used WERE pregapped and I checked each one to make sure.
Registered!!
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Irvine, CA
Rep Power: 0 Bellz..I just got new Denso Iridium IK20 spark plugs....now on the Box it says that the spark plugs are pregapped to .40mm..so does that mean I could still be able to pop them right in..? or would I need to regap them...my car is stock btw.
Registered!!
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 4
From: Fort Oglethorpe
Rep Power: 315 Originally posted by Dticalman01
Bellz..I just got new Denso Iridium IK20 spark plugs....now on the Box it says that the spark plugs are pregapped to .40mm..so does that mean I could still be able to pop them right in..? or would I need to regap them...my car is stock btw.
Bellz..I just got new Denso Iridium IK20 spark plugs....now on the Box it says that the spark plugs are pregapped to .40mm..so does that mean I could still be able to pop them right in..? or would I need to regap them...my car is stock btw.
Q. Do I need to set the gap?
A. Generally, no. The DENSO Iridium Power plug comes pre-set with a protective sleeve over the firing end, to protect the gap from accidental alteration.
They should already be gapped at .04 in. and ready to install. Like I said before, if you have a gapping tool, it doesn't hurt to double check it.
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Rep Power: 0 okay those anyone know a site that shows a really dirty plugs? cause i dunno how to justify if i need to change mine or not yet. Description: It looks rather even gray dusting over firing pin and end. should that need changing?
Registered!!
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 4
From: Fort Oglethorpe
Rep Power: 315 I suggest you check out this site, which shows all the different problems that spark plugs run into.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...park/plugs.htm
or
http://www.partsamerica.com/Auto101PlugCondition.asp
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...park/plugs.htm
or
http://www.partsamerica.com/Auto101PlugCondition.asp
sorry for bringing this thread alive.... thanx search button..
let'see...people here were talking about IK20..
i just bough NGK Iridium IX..
i know that from many thread and posts that my plugs are pre-gapped and ready to install..
anyway, i just want to RE-assure about it and feel safe while installing it..
this is the pic of my plugs....please RE-assure me that these plugs are ready to install. thanx!
ANOTHER QUESTION: do i need to use the DIELECTRIC GREASE that's shown on this pic?
let'see...people here were talking about IK20..
i just bough NGK Iridium IX..
i know that from many thread and posts that my plugs are pre-gapped and ready to install..
anyway, i just want to RE-assure about it and feel safe while installing it..
this is the pic of my plugs....please RE-assure me that these plugs are ready to install. thanx!
ANOTHER QUESTION: do i need to use the DIELECTRIC GREASE that's shown on this pic?
just buy tha spark plug gap measurement coin at any local auto shop..like 99cent...cuz i bought 4 Denso IK20 for my car last time, then found out one of the plug is not pregap in civic spec., i guess 0.44...?
Registered!!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 zen_master,
Most plug manufacturers these days plate their theaded bodies with zinc cadmium. Zinc cadmium coating is identified by a yellow-rainbowish shimmer to the threaded area of a plug. This precludes the need for anti-seize compound when installing in an aluminum head (like our Civics) because the zinc cadmium plating significantly reduces galvanic corrosion in the theading interface. Anti-seize won't hurt, just be sure to adjust your torque when you install your new plugs with anti-seize as the lubricating properties of anti-seize may result in over tightening of your plugs if you torque it to the recommended spec in the manual. Most recommend torquing to 80% or so of the recommended value if using anti-seize. Also, the regular permatex anti-seize is not a great electric conductor. Special copper based anti-seize is available that is much better at conducting electric current. Electric conductivity is important because your ignition current flows from the plug electrode to ground via the plug body and head (though its more an ****-retentive sort of difference that only detail obsessive guys like me care about).
I myself have not used anti-seize when installing zinc-cadmium coated plugs (most import/european brands) in aluminum heads in my truck, my bikes, and Civic.
Hope this helps,
Velocifero.
Most plug manufacturers these days plate their theaded bodies with zinc cadmium. Zinc cadmium coating is identified by a yellow-rainbowish shimmer to the threaded area of a plug. This precludes the need for anti-seize compound when installing in an aluminum head (like our Civics) because the zinc cadmium plating significantly reduces galvanic corrosion in the theading interface. Anti-seize won't hurt, just be sure to adjust your torque when you install your new plugs with anti-seize as the lubricating properties of anti-seize may result in over tightening of your plugs if you torque it to the recommended spec in the manual. Most recommend torquing to 80% or so of the recommended value if using anti-seize. Also, the regular permatex anti-seize is not a great electric conductor. Special copper based anti-seize is available that is much better at conducting electric current. Electric conductivity is important because your ignition current flows from the plug electrode to ground via the plug body and head (though its more an ****-retentive sort of difference that only detail obsessive guys like me care about).
I myself have not used anti-seize when installing zinc-cadmium coated plugs (most import/european brands) in aluminum heads in my truck, my bikes, and Civic.
Hope this helps,
Velocifero.
Velocifero,
Wow man! Thanx a lot for your reply, that's a lot of information, man..
Is that your first post? welcome to this forum, man! =)
Hm.....your post make me think about few details....especially the fact that we don't have to use anti-seize......which make me think now...
should i use it? you said that i need to torque 80% of the recommended point because the useness of anti-seize lubricant...now, this fact make me think twice about using anti-seize...
anyway, my friend bought a set of BOSCH 4 points spark plugs....he installed his spark plugs using anti-seize and torque to the recommended value....since then, his car's working nicely....
the thing is....my also a detail freak guy.....your post really make me thing more about installing my spark plugs...i mean, the details....
however, i think my anti-seize's ok enough....even though you said about stuffs regarding the electric current conductivity.....i think it's fine.....but im thinking about the torque-ing thing....what is the number that i should use?
anyway, i just bought a gap check ring thing....i think im gonna re-check those plugs before installation..
do i need to use that Dielectric grease?
Wow man! Thanx a lot for your reply, that's a lot of information, man..
Is that your first post? welcome to this forum, man! =)
Hm.....your post make me think about few details....especially the fact that we don't have to use anti-seize......which make me think now...
should i use it? you said that i need to torque 80% of the recommended point because the useness of anti-seize lubricant...now, this fact make me think twice about using anti-seize...
anyway, my friend bought a set of BOSCH 4 points spark plugs....he installed his spark plugs using anti-seize and torque to the recommended value....since then, his car's working nicely....
the thing is....my also a detail freak guy.....your post really make me thing more about installing my spark plugs...i mean, the details....
however, i think my anti-seize's ok enough....even though you said about stuffs regarding the electric current conductivity.....i think it's fine.....but im thinking about the torque-ing thing....what is the number that i should use?
anyway, i just bought a gap check ring thing....i think im gonna re-check those plugs before installation..
do i need to use that Dielectric grease?
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 HEY!
DO NOT gap those plugs. They are ready to install from the factory. You will ruin the plugs by checking the gap, since the center electrode is very fragile.
Also, I would strongly discourage using any lube or anti-seize whatever. You don't want anything like that getting in the engine. It could happen.
Just take the old ones out (using a special socket with rubber to catch the plug), and put the new ones in. Thread them by hand with an extension until they won't turn anymore. Then go use your torque wrench to tighten then to 14 ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, GO BUY ONE. They're only $20 from Sears for the pointer kind.
DO NOT gap those plugs. They are ready to install from the factory. You will ruin the plugs by checking the gap, since the center electrode is very fragile.
Also, I would strongly discourage using any lube or anti-seize whatever. You don't want anything like that getting in the engine. It could happen.
Just take the old ones out (using a special socket with rubber to catch the plug), and put the new ones in. Thread them by hand with an extension until they won't turn anymore. Then go use your torque wrench to tighten then to 14 ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, GO BUY ONE. They're only $20 from Sears for the pointer kind.
Registered!!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 zen_master,
Yup, its my first post here. Been a lurker for a while as I've been doing minor maintenance work here and there for my wife's '01 Civic. Thanks for the welcome. Most of my time is spent on my Tundra and Hawk GT forums as they are my rides.
Like gearbox says, I would not recommend using any anti-seize for spark plug installation other than if you have Champion plugs (they're the only ones I know that still makes plugs that aren't zinc-candmium coated -- there may be others). It's just not necessary these days. Dielelectric isn't necessary as well. I've replaced numerous plugs in my old Honda, my Tundra, my Kawasaki, my Hawk -- all of which have aluminum heads and have never experienced a seized plug. Zinc-cadmium coating works!
In fact, the only place I regularly use anti-seize is in any bolt on the exhaust system or when I use copper based anti-seize when replacing an oxygen sensor.
Off hand I don't know the correct torque setting for the plugs on a 7th Gen Civic. I do have the factory service manual so I will check it and let you know what it says when I get home. 80% is a rule of thumb that many plug manufactures quote, it is by no means a hard value, and I don't think your friend did any harm when he torqued his to the full value.
In addition, as gearbox said, don't regap your plugs. Factory gap specs don't apply to multi-points and you do risk nicking the surface of the electrode.
Velocifero
Yup, its my first post here. Been a lurker for a while as I've been doing minor maintenance work here and there for my wife's '01 Civic. Thanks for the welcome. Most of my time is spent on my Tundra and Hawk GT forums as they are my rides.
Like gearbox says, I would not recommend using any anti-seize for spark plug installation other than if you have Champion plugs (they're the only ones I know that still makes plugs that aren't zinc-candmium coated -- there may be others). It's just not necessary these days. Dielelectric isn't necessary as well. I've replaced numerous plugs in my old Honda, my Tundra, my Kawasaki, my Hawk -- all of which have aluminum heads and have never experienced a seized plug. Zinc-cadmium coating works!
In fact, the only place I regularly use anti-seize is in any bolt on the exhaust system or when I use copper based anti-seize when replacing an oxygen sensor.
Off hand I don't know the correct torque setting for the plugs on a 7th Gen Civic. I do have the factory service manual so I will check it and let you know what it says when I get home. 80% is a rule of thumb that many plug manufactures quote, it is by no means a hard value, and I don't think your friend did any harm when he torqued his to the full value.
In addition, as gearbox said, don't regap your plugs. Factory gap specs don't apply to multi-points and you do risk nicking the surface of the electrode.
Velocifero
Last edited by Velocifero; May 4, 2004 at 10:13 PM.
checkin the plugs is not goona damage the center electrode (strong tip, believe me!), just slightly in/out smoothly on that gap measurement coin...u know just makin sure if you got the RIGHT plugs in RIGHT gap for your car........
i bought 4 DENSO IK20 from a Denso vendor, then i found out one of plug is kinda off by 0.40mm..compare to factory spec. 1.1mm
i think checkin is oky, cuz u never know when some peps send you the wrong plugs....
i bought 4 DENSO IK20 from a Denso vendor, then i found out one of plug is kinda off by 0.40mm..compare to factory spec. 1.1mm
i think checkin is oky, cuz u never know when some peps send you the wrong plugs....
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812
Should I gap my Iridium Plugs?
The manufacturers say NO.
This is because most people do not know how to properly gap a spark plug, and the center electrodes on the ultra-fine iridium can easily snap if mishandled. There is no warranty for snapped center electrodes. The manufacturers say an iridium spark plug will run so much better than a traditional plug, even if it is not gapped for that motor, that they would prefer you just leave it rather than risk snapping the center electrode.
The manufacturers say NO.
This is because most people do not know how to properly gap a spark plug, and the center electrodes on the ultra-fine iridium can easily snap if mishandled. There is no warranty for snapped center electrodes. The manufacturers say an iridium spark plug will run so much better than a traditional plug, even if it is not gapped for that motor, that they would prefer you just leave it rather than risk snapping the center electrode.
Registered!!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 zen_master,
I stand corrected. The Honda OEM service manual for my 2001 Civic specs the use of anti-seize on new plugs and to torque them down to 18 N-m (13 lb-ft). This is a first for me.
If you do choose to use anti-seize, be sure to apply a very small amount to the threads of the plug body. All you need is a very thin layer -- you want to avoid applying too much and have it spill into the cylinder.
Velocifero
I stand corrected. The Honda OEM service manual for my 2001 Civic specs the use of anti-seize on new plugs and to torque them down to 18 N-m (13 lb-ft). This is a first for me.
If you do choose to use anti-seize, be sure to apply a very small amount to the threads of the plug body. All you need is a very thin layer -- you want to avoid applying too much and have it spill into the cylinder.
Velocifero
Hi guys! Wow, there are a lot of good informations over here....letsee...
1. should I re-gap my plug?
i think i won't re-gap them...i just bought the checking coin and i just re-check them to make sure that they are gapped correctly...now, i just check them right now...and all 4 of em are 0.04-0.041", is that ok?
which is about.....0.0405"
2. should I use anti-seize?
ok, what should i do? let'see....Velocifero, did you correct yourself that we've to use the anti-seize (based on the OEM service book)?
now...gearbox, what do you think? it seems you said that i don't need to use any of em......what should i do? i think i should clarify this first...
on www.sparkplugs.com, the OE's gap is 0.044....
3. what number should i use when i torque my plugs?
let'see..
my book said 13 ft-lbs....
gearbox said 14 ft-lbs WITHOUT anti seize...
valecifero said 13 ft-lbs with anti seize.... (based on his book)
now, which one should i use? seems like..
13 ft-lbs with a lil' bit of anti seize might work, hm hm?
quoted from Valecifero:
"I stand corrected. The Honda OEM service manual for my 2001 Civic specs the use of anti-seize on new plugs and to torque them down to 18 N-m (13 lb-ft). This is a first for me."
um...can you explain again what you are talking? are you correcting your own opinion such that i DO have to use a lil' but of anti-seize and torque to 13 ft-lbs?
thanx guys!! good informations!
1. should I re-gap my plug?
i think i won't re-gap them...i just bought the checking coin and i just re-check them to make sure that they are gapped correctly...now, i just check them right now...and all 4 of em are 0.04-0.041", is that ok?
which is about.....0.0405"
2. should I use anti-seize?
ok, what should i do? let'see....Velocifero, did you correct yourself that we've to use the anti-seize (based on the OEM service book)?
now...gearbox, what do you think? it seems you said that i don't need to use any of em......what should i do? i think i should clarify this first...
on www.sparkplugs.com, the OE's gap is 0.044....
3. what number should i use when i torque my plugs?
let'see..
my book said 13 ft-lbs....
gearbox said 14 ft-lbs WITHOUT anti seize...
valecifero said 13 ft-lbs with anti seize.... (based on his book)
now, which one should i use? seems like..
13 ft-lbs with a lil' bit of anti seize might work, hm hm?
quoted from Valecifero:
"I stand corrected. The Honda OEM service manual for my 2001 Civic specs the use of anti-seize on new plugs and to torque them down to 18 N-m (13 lb-ft). This is a first for me."
um...can you explain again what you are talking? are you correcting your own opinion such that i DO have to use a lil' but of anti-seize and torque to 13 ft-lbs?
thanx guys!! good informations!
Last edited by zen_master; May 5, 2004 at 09:54 AM.
