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Hi every one. I have a few hard questions to ask, and hopefully I can get some good answers. I had my old engine swapped out of my 99 Civic Coup for a B18C Type R motor. Whats next for me is a Turbo! How much PSI can this engine ( my engien ) take? I belive I will have to rebuild the bottom end in order for the engine to take any PSI higher then 6-8? I was told i have 11/1 compression already. What parts will I need in order to slap on a turbo and run it with 13 PSI? Forged piston heads, Forged push rods, new rocker arms????? Any one have a clue? A list of parts would be great!!!!!! I also wanted to look into getting some Spoon racing cam shafts for some more high end power. If I have gotten any of my info wrong please set me straight!

Current Mods:
AEM pully Kit
Injen Cold air intake
APEX'i WS exhaust

 
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ok, in order to run anything more than i'd say 5 psi (since you already have a HIGH compression motor) you're gonna need to replace your pistons with lower compression forged pistons.. i'd go 9.5:1 on that if possible... talk to a good honda engine builder to figure out exact specs for these things.. also you will need new CONNECTING rods.. not push rods.. your car doesn't have push rods.. and if you did, that'd be ONE ODD CIVIC... but these should be forged also.. H beam preferably.. they're more durable than I beam rods.. from there you should be good to run about 15 psi if you wanted.. as long as it was tuned propperly of course

 
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Alot of people chose to do naturally aspirated power on the b18c5 (type-R) motor. I haven't really heard of people boosting those but if that's your thing than go ahead. I agree about the compression. And honestly, if you run boost at less than 5 psi, youre gonna LOSE horsepower. So talk to someone more knowledged, get forged internals, lower compression pistons, a good custom turbo setup (make sure EVERYTHING is done right, such as making sure there is an oil connection to the turbo) and you definately need a good tune up. Also invest in getting the hondata ecu.

 
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i dont agree w/ the hondata thing...
i say just get your ecu tuned... much cheaper...

 
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Hey great info guys! Keep it comming. Any specific band names I should be looking for here, for Pistons and Connecting rod's? Is that all the bottom end I really need to replace or is there more small parts? Thanks for your help

 
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I would get a crower valvetrain, eagle rods, arp bolts and rebuild it before i turboed it. Those are the weakest parts of a engine. As long as you get a proffesional tuner you will be fine and he can give you alot of tips also. And low compression pistons.

 
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I went to the Arp web page and also the Eagel page only to find no products for honda. Whats up with that? I think I might get all the parts from crower!

PS. Do I need new Valves aswell? I also found some sweet Pistons, 9.0:1 insted of my stock 11.5:1 !!!!!

 
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what you should do is go with stroker kit from crower direct or go to Inlinefour.com and ask them for pricing.. and tell them what you want and they will biuld it... make sure to tell them that you need a low comression piston when they build the kit.. takes 6-8 weeks for the to build it. my set up is going on 2-1/2 monthe now for my stroker kit
stroker kit will be your whole bottom end. compression should be about 8.5-1 or 8-1 comression and should allow you to run about 22 psi of boost properly tuned and modded....

 
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OK all i went to my tech shop ( the one where i got my motor) and talked with them about how I could get a turbo up and running. What there going to do is replace my block with a CRV block. Its only 700$. Its got far lower compression and bolts stright on. So now I dont need any Pistons, rods, or cam's. Then agian I never needed new cams in the first place. I just wanted some for no reason. Thing is though. The set up i have going in the works right now is gonna cost me 14g CAN. There are a million parts I had to get. Like a new clutch, oil lines, water pump, AEM fuel rail, RC injectors, fule pump, hondata, MSD coil, 3" exhaust, boost + EGT guages, ARP bolts, regulator guage, wires, cap, Radiator + Fal Fan AND the $4,800 Turbo KIT!!!

( takes a deep breath )

So ya its like that. All that said and done all have a Minimum of 300WHP. There gonna dyno the crud out of the car and tune it out. So what do you all think about that??

 
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I think ALL MOTOR! No, do whatever you want to do, 4800 for a turbo kit?? seems kinda way high to me for only putting down 300 hp. What do you want your car to run in the 1/4?

 
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If tuned properly I was told I would get in the 12 second range. That turbo will be set only at 12psi. The turbo is capible of producing 450hp. Its a stage 1 turbo. But since I'm on a budget I chose not to upgrade the bottom end. Thats why were going with a CRV block insted of upgrading my B18 block.

 
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thats because with going with a crv block and your head you should have a compression of 8-1 which is good for a turbo.... but what king of turbo are you going with???????????? a stage one turbo with intercooler should't cost you that much... i can get a blue printed turbo custom built with intercooler for less than that from a local shop....

 
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crv botom end is a good way to fix the compression ratio... and it's also a good way to spend seven hundred bucks on a motor tht's gonna blow up at 300 hp.... the main reason you need to get new pistons and rods is because you need forged aluminum.... crv motor will not have these... and there's no point in doing that block and THEN replacing the pistons and rods... just keep the one you've got and upgrade it.. and go to a different shop.. they sound like morons to me that just wanna make an easy buck

 
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I didnt read into the post and am only referring to your original post.

I would jus recommend keeping that motor the way it is and get a LS Longblock for a few hundred bucks and boost the LS motor.

Save the B18C5 the way it is at it's compression. Keep it all motor.

I think that'd be a waste of a type R motor if you plan on boostin.

But that's just what I'd recommend..

 
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To tayler, it's 4800 canadian.... And yeah no matter what you need forged rods and pistons. Honda engines stock (except for maybe k20s) aren't meant to take boost with stock pistons and rods. No matter what this should be a priority when building a turbo kit.

 
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Thats what I figured! Theses guys have done it before and never replaced the bottom end in this setup. I wonder who is right? I originaly wanted to just do the bottom end in my B18 motor but they said the cheapest way to do that is to just throw in a CRV block. Now I'm totally confused. I have to meet with them tomorrow to get things rolling. They have already ordered my Turbo ( Full-race.com ). Take a look at it. Its the stage 1 turbo kit with AC. Maybe they just did not want to machine the bottom end because it would take them a lot longer. I think All just buy the turbo kit and save up some more cash for Pistons and rods. Then take it to a real shop to get that work done. ehhh I'm so confused!!

 
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buy the turbo save up your money and get some low compression piston and new ring and the install everything at a tuner shop that know what he is doing
!!!!!!!!! or cancel the order and redo the whole bottom end and build an all motor b18

 
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VTECHSI, you spelled vtec wrong

 
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i did it on purose because on x box live when i first signed up somebody had that name already so i spelled it different so i could you that screen name and have used it since!!!

 
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Alright guys, I had a talk with them today! I went with 05blkrs suggestion because it made the most sense to me. I'm just going to have some one rebuild my motor instead of replacing my block with a CRV block. I went with JE Pistons 9.0:1, Crower Rods, springs, retainers, and Valves. That cost $2828.22 CAN. At least all have some peace of mind now. After I told them that, they wanted me to get a bigger turbo and I had a good laugh! All stick with the stage 1 turbo kit. I had to keep all this within my budget so i was forced to get Uberdata instead of Hondata and drop the 3" exhaust and HKS blow off valve. Now the hard part!! Waiting to get my motor in the shop and then waiting for all my parts to arrive at the shop. I hate waiting. Looks like all have to rent a car for a few weeks So how much WHP do you guys think I can pull off now?

 
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if you're daily driving this car, once they get it built and get it off to a dyno, tell them to detune it to 300 whp.. that's aboutall you'll ever need to be happy.. you'll be smokin' non s/c cobras w/ that set up. i suggest taking it to a REAL tuner shop and having them piece together a custom kit.. they're much cheaper that way.. and youcan usually get more hp w/ less boost that way.. for example.. i'm going to do mine w/ a custom ported, polished td04 set up.. it's gonna run me about 3k only because i am chosing to buy a fmic kit.. rather than have one built.. and then the motor is only gonna cost like another 3k to build the motor to handle the power... i'm only gonna boost to about 260 awhp... that'll be plenty for me... for now at least.. not bad for 6k w/ built motor and 90% of the stuff i can use when i decide to do the 500whp set up..... just too bad i'm gonna have to upgrade my block and heads when i do that...(but pistons and rods are stayin since i'm gonna upgrade to the ej257 instead of my ej253 which is sohc...)

 
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Actually instead of de-tuning my car, there going to have me running only 7 psi on the road and 12psi when I race. There going to hook up a toggel switch for me so I can just flip it and race with 12psi. Since my new pistons are 9.0:1 instead of 11.0:1 I wonder how much psi I can really feed her safely for all out racing. Id love to see time sheets when you upgrade your motor for 500whp!!!!! I had a scoot in a friends car with 271whp and it was pretty amazing. No idea what I'm gonna do with a minimum of 300whp lol. I bet all crap my pants And about the turbo I have already bought it! The kit seems alright to me. I wish the price was lol. Oh well.

 
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