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what kinda viscosity are u guys runnin? currently at 10psi daily driven... and ambient temp in my country is ard 30deg C. inputspls. cheers.
p's deciding whether to use royal purple.15w40 or 20w50
or motul 0w40

 
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if I were you, I'd run Amsoil 5w40

 
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I use Carstrol GTX 5w20

 
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If its 90F (~30C) year round I'd be tempted to use 0-40 or 5-40.
Hook up a temp gauge and see how hot the oil gets, using 5-30 may be suffecient.

 
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hmmm, i used a 20w50 royal purple oil for now. so u guys suggest i should use weight 40? and yeah is 30deg C all year round.

 
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im here down in fl its like 95degrees all year long lol, should Mobil One 5-40/5-30 be ok?

 
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oh wow 20w50?

you don't have a semi truck, you don't need that kind of oil!... especially for 30 C... 5w30 will be sufficient enough! same with 95 degree temps ... 5w30 or 5w40 will be fine

 
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where do you guys live where it's like 90+ year round?

I have my kit and when I put it in I'm going to be running 5-30 and in the summer it gets to like a 100F

 
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20 actually will be just nice eh? since ill never get such cold weathers, i might as well start with something of higher weight? and 50 i guess its because i push the car hard at times and coupled with the hot weather... yeah... ive heard 40 will be way too thin man

 
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lol. 30 C is only about 86 F.

you can use 5w20 if you wanted to.

whoever told you 40 weight is too thin needs to realize that you're driving a civic. 20w50 is far far far too thick.

 
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First of all.... Royal Purple is great oil and all but does not last much longer than a normal dino oil, hence you really have no reason to use it unles this is strickly a track car. Red Line, Amsoil, Motul and even Mobil 1 are all better choices in that price range and you can easily go 7,000 miles on any of those oils. For the viscosity, I would go with 5w30, maybe even 0w40, but I would probably choose 5w30, because 30C isn't that hot. Out in Vegas during the summer the normal mid day temp is around 40-45C, then 0w40 is probably a good choice.

 
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ok.thanks for the inputs. well i intend to get the oil changed at every 3000km. so does that make up for the short " life span" for RP? i ve read in HT that the vis values shud be as close as possible. ie the smaller the difference the better...

 
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5000 km or 3000 miles should be fine for a RP oil change ...

 
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Yeah, that should be fine, I might go 4,000 km on it, unless you are racing it often. Just for reference, I know a few people with Z06's running RP and they go about 3,000 miles on it, there oil reports say not to go much more than 4,000 miles on it.

I'm not sure why you want to have the values close together, the first numbe ris just the startup viscosity and the second number is the "warmed up" vis. The values are generally manipulated by certian addatives, so I could see how as the addative ware away, the viscosity might change a little, hence if they close to each, it won't matter if that addative wares a way, but if you change your oil every 3,000 miles (5,000 km) you have nothing to worry about because the addative won't ware off in that amount of time.

 
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hmmm.cool. no side effects for running 20w50 right. if yes ill have it swap out asap. the problem i will nt wanna use sometihing that will last that long is because i reckon a more regular oil change will be better. say RP 3000km vs motul 7000km. rp at 45 bucks and motul at 90 bucks. better?

 
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whoa 20 w 50 in a stock civic is way bad dude. The oil is to thick it won't protect right, it will seal all the leaks (which are needed to equalize pressure), cuase a spike in pressure and blow gaskets all overs, that's assuming the engine lasts long enough. Not to mention your VTEC (assuming you have it) is ran from oil pressure, that thick of oil will screw with your VTEC when it tries to engage, it may not be able to untill to low of RPM. This is not a good choice, and will NOT get better protection using this thick of oil. It's like down a water slide, but instead of water it is molasses, making sence yet?

AS for the oil change thing, it doesn't matter, I know people who formulate oil, who work for oil companies making the addative package that make oil what it is, and they don't use this high end of oil in their normal cars. So IMO you are doing a way over kill here. It's not like your engine is going to last longer by using this oil compared to changing a normal oil out every 3,000-4,000 miles, you won't be making any more power, you are just tossing money into the wind here.

 
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god damn it. im boosted and hav only vitaras... looks like i need a oil change........god dam it!!!!!!

 
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so rp 5W30, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40..which one?
same conditions...thanks

 
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I think you should go with 5w30 or 5w40 ... either is fine!

 
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okay... so lets look at this agian...

Your boosted, you create more heat than normal. This means use a good synthetic. I personally would go with Red Line, probably 5w40. Why? Well, I would go with Red Line because it has a high amount of moly, highest among commercial oils, this additive will adsorbed onto the metal and essentially give it a new coating of metal every time you change the oil, this can be very important in the turbo and keeping the turbo bearings from wearing. I would go with 5w40 because on a FI engine start up is always hard on it, so keeping a low cold viscosity is key so that every thing can come to proper oil pressure quickly. You may even choose to go with something like a 0w40, but that may be hard to find. The hot viscosity does need to be moved up because of the extra heat being added to the system form the turbo and extra power being produced.

Here are some links to look at:
RedLine 5w40
Amsoil 5w30
Amsoil 5w40

About moly

Hopefully that will help clearthings a little

 
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hmm. ive have a set of motul e -tech 8100 at 80 over bucks 4 quart. thats some what the same pricing as red line. the motul has 0w40. and redline has only 5w40. and lastly the RP at both 10w40 and 15w40.
my friend said the redline does not last and ask me not to waste money on it. his a all time motul fan so yeah....
im just wondering if i wil benefit from changing the oil more frequently as the total price of changing twice RP will be equal to eith motul or redline. labour and oil filter excluded. thanks man. u have been of great help.

 
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you need to stop listening to your friend.

 
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Motul is a great oil too, probably close to RedLine, but I really don't know much about it. Here in Ohio muscle cars are very popular, there are quite a few guys with the new Z06's, a couple with supercharged C5 vetts and the guy down the road from me has a Hennessy R800 Venom Viper. These guy obviously know no bounds when it comes to cost of maintaining their cars, at my advice they have all gotten their oil tested after every change now, they have used RP, Red Line, and bunch of other I can't even think of. And since they all know each other they talk about their various oils and compare what they have gotten. They are all using Red Line now because it not only lasts the longest, but it also protects the best, they all have lowered their metal contents in the oil by about half using Red Line oil. Who ever said Red Line doesn't last long, hasn't looked at RP oils analysis yet, because that is KNOWN in the oil forums and in industry to have the shortest life span of any synthetic oil.

Agian recapping from what I mentioned above, you want the first number in the oil viscosity to be low, either 0 or 5, this is the start up viscosity and since you have much higher demand on oil pressure than most cars, you certianly want to stay away from anything that is to thick at start up. hence a 5w30 or 0w30would probably be best or 5w40 and 5w40 would work.

As for benfitting from a more frequent oil change, no. Most synthetic are good for about 5,000 miles in you case, I would guess RP some where around 3,000 miles, yes these are less than normal, but being turbo, you are putting far more stress on the oil than most of us. Finally, the best way to see is to get an oil annalysis done on the oil, this will tell how long the oil can go. Me, your friend we are just guessing, but I do spend to much time in the oil forums and do have an education dealing with oil, and I also know every engine is different.

Keep in mind that the first oil change can give some funky readings on oil ananlysis reports. For instance it's common for the oil analysis from the first time Red Line is used to look wierd because most of the moly is adsorbed and the there is some metal from before the moly adsorbes. So the analysis form the second oil change is almost always lower in metal count and higher in moly. My point is that you should pcik a good oil, and stick with it, what ever you choose, go with it, and don't switch, because oil is best when ti is in the engine for a long time and the same additive packages can work every oil change.

So.... RP can go 3,000 miles (aorund 5,000 km) at $45 a change
motul/RedLine can go around 5,000 miles (around 8,000 km) at $80 a change.

So if we break that down to say $/1,000km, we can see that the motul/RedLine prices is around $10/1000km and RP is around $9/1000km; so RP is slightly cheaper. I personally would probably go with 5w30 RP oil every 3,000 miles (5,000 km), only because Summit Racing is 5 minutes form my work and they stock RP. Red Line would be my second choice, but that would reuire me to look on-line and order it, and sometimes it's just easier to go get the oil.

On a different note, I have always wondered what makes RP purple? And why do they do it?