Fuel, Oil, Cleaners & Other Maintenance Extending the life of your Civic requires the proper fuel, oil, and cleaners, along with other regularly scheduled maintenance.

oil change problem

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Old 10-21-2005
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oil change problem

So I was doing my oil change.. part 1) drain the old oil .. but I wasn't able to remove my oil filter and after trying for more than 2 hours i finaly abandoned (+ it was starting to get dark outside) so I left my old filter and put my new oil in (5w20 mobil one 100% synthetic) ... is it that bad not to change the oil filter considering the fact my last oil change was done only 4000 KM ago which is a little less than 2500 miles ?
Old 10-21-2005
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so long as you didn't damage the filter while trying to get it off, there should be no problem - my honda shop manual recommends changing the filter with every other oil change for normal conditions (change filter every oil change for severe conditions).

edited to add: I'm curious why you're changing synthetic oil at 2500 miles, is this a hard use / track car, or ??

Last edited by lindermant; 10-21-2005 at 06:40 PM.
Old 10-22-2005
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Originally Posted by nova4dr_racer
So I was doing my oil change.. part 1) drain the old oil .. but I wasn't able to remove my oil filter and after trying for more than 2 hours i finaly abandoned (+ it was starting to get dark outside) so I left my old filter and put my new oil in (5w20 mobil one 100% synthetic) ... is it that bad not to change the oil filter considering the fact my last oil change was done only 4000 KM ago which is a little less than 2500 miles ?

No, oil filter shoudl be able to get 5,000 miles out of them, assuming you are using a decent oil filter. If you are using say a cheapo Wal-Mart special Fram filter, I wouldn't go much more than 3-4,000 miles.

And like the guy said above, 5,000 miles on synthetic oil is nothing, infact I go 10,000 miles with the use of LC20. 2500 miles is WAY to early unless you are just breaking in the engine, in which case you used the wrong oil for the break in process.
Old 10-22-2005
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hey, I use the cheapo fram filter and go 5,000 miles every oil change with it. Never had any problem. I use the high mileage filter though.
Old 10-22-2005
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while we're onthe subject of oil changes, does anyone have any recomendations for a type/brand of oil that they think is best? my brother got royal purple for his...i was thinking castrol GTX.......comments/suggestions??
Old 10-22-2005
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Originally Posted by Mike04Civic
while we're onthe subject of oil changes, does anyone have any recomendations for a type/brand of oil that they think is best? my brother got royal purple for his...i was thinking castrol GTX.......comments/suggestions??

Oh boy....

I think I've covered this many times.

The oil you buy should be an according to how long you want to go between oil changes. Normal dino oil is fine for the 3-4,000 mile oil change. If you want to go 5-7,000 miles, go with a synthetic, Mobil 1 is most common, the best is RedLine IMO, but at $7 a quart, it can be a little pricy. If you want to go 10,000 miles, buy Mobil 1 or some synthetic and use LC20 to help renew the additives that burn away with use.

As for Royal Purple, it is a great racing oil. I say that because the TBN is only stable for about 2,500-3,000 miles on a average car. Race cars have the oil changed every 10-500 miles, so they have no concern about how long the oil will last, only how well it protects. Royal Purple is a GREAT oil, but just doesn't last long, like I said it was made for race engines, not daily driven cars.

My recommendation are this:
for dino oil, Valoline if you really want cheap and want to change your oil every 3,000 miles. Motorcraft is also half decent and can probably go around 4,000 with out much problem. Stay away form the super cheapo brands.

Synthetic blends...
Valvoline Max Life hands down, this is the best oil around for the price, you can buy 5 quart jug at Wal-Mart for $10 and some change, that's about $2 a quart, cheaper than some dino oils. I use this with LC20 and go 7,500 miles. This oil has a high count of moly (5 wt%) and is 22% synthetic blend, and at $2 a quart it's a steel. Moly, short for molybdenum, is an additive that is VERY good for anti-wear, hence high amounts of this is good. You can easily make this go 5,000 miles without LC20, and I start using it when my cars get over 50,000 miles. Not all max life formulas are created equal either, only the Valoline one stands out like this.

Full synthetic:
There are many of these, I've notice they are all about the same, if I where to go down this road, I would use Mobil 1. Although it isn't the best, you don't get much more when you go and buy the real expensive stuff. But really you are not going to get much more protection from these than you will from the Max Life oil if you change your oil every 5,000 miles. The addvantage is that you can far more than 5,000 mile on a full synthetic, but you'll need to add the additives that have burned off, this is where LC20 comes in, you can go around 10-12,000 miles when using LC20 and full synthetic oil.

Personally, I would just go with a good dino oil, Motorcraft or Valvoline untill you get to 50,000 miles and go about 4,000 miles between oil changes. And then switch to Max Life and at go about 5-7,500 miles between oil changes. Go with the higher number between oil changes if you drive all highway, otherwise stick to the lower numbers for mileage between oil changes.

BTW, when breaking in a car, if you want to change the oil at 1,000 miles or before the first scheduled oil change, use Max Life, the high moly count is important for break in.
Old 10-22-2005
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Originally Posted by streetglower
hey, I use the cheapo fram filter and go 5,000 miles every oil change with it. Never had any problem. I use the high mileage filter though.

Their high milage filter is a little better. There cheap orange one is the one I'm refering to, the amount of cardboard used in it scares me.
Old 10-22-2005
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Originally Posted by Jrfish007
Their high milage filter is a little better. There cheap orange one is the one I'm refering to, the amount of cardboard used in it scares me.
Its still orange, but made for high mileage vehicles. I have been meaning to switch to a mobil 1 filter, but have always forgot.
Old 10-22-2005
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Originally Posted by streetglower
Its still orange, but made for high mileage vehicles. I have been meaning to switch to a mobil 1 filter, but have always forgot.
Personally I won't pay that much for a filter lol... I always try to strike the area where you get the best protection for your buck without spending a ton. I actually like the Honda ones the best. I bought a bunch off ebay for aorund $3.50 each, I think it was like 20 of them for 70 after shipping. Other wise the one you have is probably okay... I forget how muc exactly the Mobil 1's are, but I remember thinking they where over priced IMO.
Old 10-22-2005
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thx everyone .. to answer you question lindermant , the only reason i am doing my oil change so early is because winter is coming and i wanted to do it b4 its too late and since school started in august i stopped using my car so much.
Old 10-22-2005
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ok....filters sold @ Wal-mart

Pro guard - used in wal-mart oil change
ph fram - regular off the shelf only dif is little more cardboard (far as i know) -has black grip coating & fitler is orange
tough guard - has the most filter element of all the filters (I use this one) - has black grip coating and filter is grey
double guard - yeah w/e....black filter w.o grip
extended guard - says it all in the name..heh - grey filter with I wanna say orange grip
Highmileage - has anti-drain back valve made of silicone...valve coated with viscosity protector (YAWN)...-looks like the basic filter

these go in price as listed from low to high...some have ptfe in the gasket..some do not...my choice is the tough guard...for my car it's a TG7317 and its 4 bux....
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