greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

ok, changed my balljoints this weekend, so im gonna make a diy

tools needed:

torque wrench
1/2" impact
air hammer
ball joint sperator instert for air hammer
^^ not needed, but makes things easier

3/8" ratchet x2
set of sockets, metric
ball joints
hammer
pry bar
jack stands
jack
1 and 1/4" socket(axle nut)
ball joint c clamp
anti-seize



ok, parts needed(honda part numbers)

ball joints - 51220-s5a-30 - x2
lower castle nut cotter pin- 90701-sx0-003 - x2
spindle nut(axle nut) - 90305-692-010
castle nut - 90363-s47-000 - x2

ok, first step, jack up car at specified jacking points, and suspend with jack stands(dont forget to loosen lugs first). remove wheel, then ull be here...



after you have done this, remove the axle nut with the 1.25" socket(this may be fairly difficult without an impact, but it is possible), then use a hammer on the end of the axle, to free it from its seat in the bearing, then remove the caliper and bracket in one piece, and it will look like this:



then, remove the two bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle(pictured below) and pull the knuckle free from the strut(which can remain connected to the tie rod and strut tower)



now, under the control arm is a castle nut, which holds the control arm to the knuckle, which is screwed onto the lower portion of the ball joint. use a pair of pliers and remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. then loosen and remove the castle nut from the ball joint



at this point, u can remove the knuckle from the lca, to do this, us an air hammer with ball joint seperator insert, to seperate the knuckle from the LCA, if u dont have an air hammer, use a hammer and pry bar to seperate, place prybar between knuckle and LCA and hammer until it breaks free





this is where the air hammer comes in handy, removing the ball joint from the knuckle



it can be done with a hammer and chisel, but its harder, and takes more time, but possible

before:



after:



now is where ur gonna need the ball joint c-clamp, it is not possible without it, and i always use anti-seize as lube when i install ball joints, so get some of that too

anti-seize

ball joint c-clamp


here is where the impact comes in handy(can be done with a ratchet, but again, its harder, and takes more time). insert the new ball joint into the hole where it will eventually seat, and attatch the ball joint c-clamp onto the knuckle and ball joint with appropriate adapter



this is what the ball joint will look like when it is fully seated in the knuckle



now u can reinsall the knuckle into the lower control arm and strut. if you have problems getting the strut and knuckle lining up because of tension, use a jack between the unibody and the lca to spread them out and make it easier:



now dont foreget to seat the axle into the bearing before installing the knuckle, otherwise it will be a pain. after installing the knuckle back into the LCA and strut, install your new axle nut/spindle nut and tighten



finally, use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer and smash the axle nut into the groove on the axle to keep it from coming loose, reinstall wheel and ur done
]

sniperscout

iTrader: (8)

awesome! my joints look like urs did

TRIZ

iTrader: (14)

Nice, Good job man!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

why did you need to replace it? nice diy tho

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

ball joints were moving excessively, as well as making noise, it was time, i got 120k almost on my vic, and was on original ball joints

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

pm me with any questions, my priveledges are all screwed up, i cant reply for some reason

popee

iTrader: (9)

nice write up .. how would you know if you need to change your balljoint? what kind of noise do you hear?? is it a hard job??? time ??

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

time was 3 hours about, if u want to know how to check them, jack up one side of ur car till the wheel is off the ground, then put a pry bar inbetween the lca and the knuckle, where the ball joint is, and if there is movement, then ur ball joint is bad, no movement and its good

popee

iTrader: (9)

okay, thanks alot adam.. going to prolly check it out this weeknd

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

if u need any help just hit me up

Alpha 5

iTrader: (8)

You may also want to state that after anyone does this that they WILL need to get an alignment.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

heyy, good call matt. any time u mess with suspension an alignment is needed

bakertime

iTrader: (7)

Thank you for this DIY! Trying to sell my civic and a shop just found a bad balljoint! Time to order my ball joints and C clamp!

This couldn't have come at a better time!

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

I just did mine this weekend too. Spent like 9 hours on em because of various hassles.

You can just bang the old ones out with hammer.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

yea u CAN bang em out with a hammer, but an air hammer is sooooo much more fun

beadebaserr

iTrader: (7)

+1 on air hammer fun, haha.

nice write up man.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

You and the ****ing air hammer!

Just FYI, If you have problems getting the axle out, use the tool on the right. IT is a ball joint separator but fits on the hub perfectly. YOu also can use it to push in the ball joint if you don't have a ball joint C clamp.

beadebaserr

iTrader: (7)

every time i do a job on my car, i stop for a minute and bow my head for those who don't have access to air tools.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

rob has the right idea. we rent those tools at work too (free)

reddawnman

Very nice DIY. Rep for you (Like you need it :-P ).

You say you have 120K - what is the typical lifespan for ball joints? I am still on original shocks / struts at 117k and I am going to order some HP blues + eibachs. Wondering if while the wheels are off I may as well just do the ball joints.

Also, are there any aftermarket parts with grease fittings that will outlast OEM? Any brands with a good reputation and part numbers?

Edit: Not sure if the brand has a good reputation, but Moog makes an aftermarket ball joint with grease fitting - so you can re-grease and it will last longer. Part number is K90332 and I saw them around $54 each. I was looking on majestic and I still don't see a way to buy just the ball joint from honda, so I'm assuming it is still knuckle only, meaning you have to buy an entire knuckle to do the ball joints if you wanted to go oem. lame.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

there really isnt a set number of miles for ball joints, they just go bad when the go bad, i knew mine were bad because my steering wheel would shake at 60-70 with perfectly balanced tires. also keep in mind im on neuspeed race springs, and they are stiff as hell, so it makes suspension components go bad faster

i want to say moog makes performance ball joints for our cars, but i dont know where to get them, i know they run about 55 bucks each tho, compared to the 30 i paid each for the oem ones. but they dont have grease fittings. i dont see why you couldnt put grease fittings into them tho, it would be pretty easy...

mkymonkey

iTrader: (3)

i have a question that might be related to my balljoints

i JUST replaced my clutch and for some reason the car developed this clicking sound. everything seems fine when it comes to the steering components. i know i definatly need to chance the complience bushings for sure they're completly broken, so i just ordered new ones from Energy Suspension. its not much of a clicking sound as much as its a metal on metal (tack tack tack tack tack)...as if the axel was hitting something or the balljoints are broken...i have no clue. but its prettly loud clicking/ticking sound. when i looked under the car..the balljoints have grease all over them as if the boot is broken or something. would this be the cause of my problem?

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

no, balljoints dont click, sounds like a cv axle, what u want to do is put ur car in reverse, turn the wheel all the way to one side, and drive. if the clicking gets worse, u have a bad cv axle. either way id bet on cv axles. but i would replace all of this at the same time, compliance bushings, cv axkes, and ball joints, because u have it all apart anyway

mkymonkey

iTrader: (3)

damn....just what i DIDNT want o hear lol

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

sorry man, thats kinda how it goes, but i did all thsoe things at 3 diff times, and hence 3 times the work, do it all at the same time, itll cost u, but itll cost u less time

minorc

You can get Moog at almost any parts store. We sell them where i work and they are fantastic, a little more expensive then the average chassis parts but they come with a lifetime warranty and all have grease fittings so yes you can re-grease them if needed. A company called Federal Mogul sells Moog and 50 other big names including Wagner and Bca bearings, so if you find someone that sells auto parts then guaranteed they carry Moog.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

awesome info minorc +1 for u

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Moog are $60+ EACH online. I got Three Five (555) ones from Napa, which Skipbarber says is a good company. If you look online there are Sankei ones for $20 each, Mevotech for $50 for 2, and Moog at $60+ each.

Mine finally went at 85k, but probably were weak before that. Driving in Baltimore, DC and autox's didn't help matters.

Green, ever notice how we do similar DIYs?

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

haha, now that i look, ur right, maybe we are both crazy then... id rep u, but i cant!

Mr_Plenty

iTrader: (3)

Did this diy this past sunday...came out great but YOU DONT NEED THE BALL JOINT INSERTION TOOL TO DO IT. So dont scare people into thinking that they need it and it isnt hard to remove to ball joint with a hammer and chisel. I dont know how strong i am but about 10 hard hits and its out. I got them back in by seating the balljoint in and then placing a thick piece of 2x4 on top of it and whacked it in easily(of course i used the antiseize)