List of All needed parts for Timing Belt Replacement
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List of All needed parts for Timing Belt Replacement
I have a 2001 Civic LX sedan. I was wondering if someone could tell me all needed parts for a Timing Belt replacement(Belt,Water Pump, Tensioner,etc.). My local garage said for me to get all the parts and they would do the repair......I want to have everything needed when I get there.
Thanks in advance.....
Sorry if this list is already in another thread
Thanks in advance.....
Sorry if this list is already in another thread
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From: baton rouge
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all the parts you should need are the timing belt and water pump. other than that you need tools which your not gonna need since someone is doing it for you.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: List of All needed parts for Timing Belt Replacement
And the accessory belts.
If the car is on its second or third timing belt (150-200k+), I'd change the cam and front crank seals, and tensioner and spring (factory parts) ..
If the car is on its second or third timing belt (150-200k+), I'd change the cam and front crank seals, and tensioner and spring (factory parts) ..
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Easy? Sure.
Reliable? No.
Honda doesn't sell a "kit".
Factory only for me.
I can't afford discount quality parts.
Too much risk installing discount parts, all the valves in the engine are at stake.
Too many stories about aftermarket tensioners failing far too early.
Reliable? No.
Honda doesn't sell a "kit".
Factory only for me.
I can't afford discount quality parts.
Too much risk installing discount parts, all the valves in the engine are at stake.
Too many stories about aftermarket tensioners failing far too early.
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Thanks....is the "spring" part of the tensioner?? I have no idea if the timing belt has ever been changed. Car is at 115,000 miles. I Just got the car.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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At 115k, I would do the timing belt and accessory belts, and inspect the water pump..... Check the weep hole for green crusty trails, evidence of past seepage. Once you have the timing covers off, check around the body of the water pump. I'd expect there to be green crustys around the outer edge from the gasket seeping. If so, then replace it.
Original tensioner set should be ok until the next timing belt change @200k, the failures I have seen here were all over 200k on the original parts.
Front seals usually aren't leaking at this point on the cars I see here, so they are let go until the next interval too.
You can change all these parts if you wish. I'm just telling what I do in the shop where customers normally scream about prices.
Original tensioner set should be ok until the next timing belt change @200k, the failures I have seen here were all over 200k on the original parts.
Front seals usually aren't leaking at this point on the cars I see here, so they are let go until the next interval too.
You can change all these parts if you wish. I'm just telling what I do in the shop where customers normally scream about prices.
Please, DubTee is my father, call me Dub
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From: Brandon, MS
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At 115k, I would do the timing belt and accessory belts, and inspect the water pump..... Check the weep hole for green crusty trails, evidence of past seepage. Once you have the timing covers off, check around the body of the water pump. I'd expect there to be green crustys around the outer edge from the gasket seeping. If so, then replace it.
Original tensioner set should be ok until the next timing belt change @200k, the failures I have seen here were all over 200k on the original parts.
Front seals usually aren't leaking at this point on the cars I see here, so they are let go until the next interval too.
You can change all these parts if you wish. I'm just telling what I do in the shop where customers normally scream about prices.
Original tensioner set should be ok until the next timing belt change @200k, the failures I have seen here were all over 200k on the original parts.
Front seals usually aren't leaking at this point on the cars I see here, so they are let go until the next interval too.
You can change all these parts if you wish. I'm just telling what I do in the shop where customers normally scream about prices.
fishtown:
I would note this: since you are paying someone else to do the work, he may insist you have all the parts since he is warranting the work. I would ask first and make sure he's OK changing the belt only and skipping the tensioner.
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From: baton rouge
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Do y'all know how to drain the engine block of water I have no idea just wanna make sure I have a good clean block before I put this thing back together
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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From: baton rouge
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I hav already had the water pump off the block still has water in it is there a drain plug at the bottom of the block or something I have a d15b7 if that will help I have looked on google and it only bring me back here
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Dang, like 4 different people asking stuff in this thread? I can't keep everyone straight.
They are a dealer, so I expect (HOPE) they use factory parts and just assemble a "kit" for you.
The block drains if you pull the water pump.
If just replacing coolant, only the radiator gets drained. That gets about half of the coolant in the system and most of the time doesn't present airlock problems in the heater system (big headache). Also no chance of stripping or damaging the block drain (bigger headache). 30k/2 year intervals for green coolant IIRC.
I was going to buy the kit from H&A (http://www.handa-accessories.com/civmaint01.html) which I assume is them collecting all the various Honda bits and selling it as a kit in light of your comment above.
Do y'all know how to drain the engine block of water I have no idea just wanna make sure I have a good clean block before I put this thing back together
If just replacing coolant, only the radiator gets drained. That gets about half of the coolant in the system and most of the time doesn't present airlock problems in the heater system (big headache). Also no chance of stripping or damaging the block drain (bigger headache). 30k/2 year intervals for green coolant IIRC.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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I doubt you can get the block DRY without a teardown.\
TILT the car to the side with a jack?
TILT the car to the side with a jack?
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From: SW Michigan
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I used one of those little $7 pump thingies and sucked the antifreeze out through the thermostat housing. So when I removed the head and water pump very little fluid came out.
Great site ezone thanks again.
Rich
Great site ezone thanks again.
Rich
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funny...
nobody referenced this as of yet...
sticky on the mech troules section, which is actually a DIY.
funny 2: A guy asking for someone to do-it-for-him is on the do-it-yourself section instead...
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...arts-list.html
nobody referenced this as of yet...
sticky on the mech troules section, which is actually a DIY.
funny 2: A guy asking for someone to do-it-for-him is on the do-it-yourself section instead...
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...arts-list.html
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