DIY: Ingalls "Stiffy" Engine Damper & Review
Yea, the studs are similar to how a wheel stud are installed. It has the grooved base, so when its pulled thru the hub or mounting plate it seats in the hole. If someone can find a longer stud, we could make it work. It only needs to be about 3/8" longer.
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Is there a way to move the bracket away from the problematic bolt by drilling a new hole in the chassis and using a new bolt to fix it?
The stiffy kit for 1996-2000 civic require that you drill a hole:
Do we really need to fix it on 2 bolts? As seen on Ingalls site, some stiffy kit are just fixed to one point (civic 92-93; 96-00; prelude...etc.)? Maybe we can manage something with just one bolt?
And, on one of their pics, for the civic si the bracket fit under a Neuspeed strutbar!
The stiffy kit for 1996-2000 civic require that you drill a hole:
Do we really need to fix it on 2 bolts? As seen on Ingalls site, some stiffy kit are just fixed to one point (civic 92-93; 96-00; prelude...etc.)? Maybe we can manage something with just one bolt?
And, on one of their pics, for the civic si the bracket fit under a Neuspeed strutbar!
Last edited by Redviking; May 25, 2006 at 07:23 PM.
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I don't understand how a shorter nut would work even if tension wasn't an issue.
Whether you have a short nut or a tall nut... you're still threading the same amount.
Whether you have a short nut or a tall nut... you're still threading the same amount.
well one bolt would be fine if we mounted it like that, but with the given bracket it would be vulnerable to making that bolt a pivot point and the stiffy wouldnt work.
when i get mine (should be the 31st) im gonna look at it and see what ways to do it, so far ive thought of...
A. shave down strut bar (spoon) and ingalls brackets so they are just a lil thinner, then get the bolt on there.
B. cut off the ingalls mounting holes and weld it to the frame
C. heat up and bend bracket then mount it like in above pics
D. make my own bracket or have one made (not gonna do it tho lol)
and as for you guys saying to get shorter nuts......how would that solve anything? your only gonna be able to get the nut down a few threads if your lucky, and a few threads is a few threads wether the nut is five inches long or five eights of an inch.....dont concern yourself with that cus it doesnt matter, and i wouldnt suggest/feel comfortable with having so few threads on the bolt, dont cheap out and sacrifice your safety.
+1 for getting it out before me haha
when i get mine (should be the 31st) im gonna look at it and see what ways to do it, so far ive thought of...
A. shave down strut bar (spoon) and ingalls brackets so they are just a lil thinner, then get the bolt on there.
B. cut off the ingalls mounting holes and weld it to the frame
C. heat up and bend bracket then mount it like in above pics
D. make my own bracket or have one made (not gonna do it tho lol)
and as for you guys saying to get shorter nuts......how would that solve anything? your only gonna be able to get the nut down a few threads if your lucky, and a few threads is a few threads wether the nut is five inches long or five eights of an inch.....dont concern yourself with that cus it doesnt matter, and i wouldnt suggest/feel comfortable with having so few threads on the bolt, dont cheap out and sacrifice your safety.
Originally Posted by R1Style
I don't understand how a shorter nut would work even if tension wasn't an issue.
Whether you have a short nut or a tall nut... you're still threading the same amount.
Whether you have a short nut or a tall nut... you're still threading the same amount.
Last edited by ncirom2003; May 25, 2006 at 09:05 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Rep Power: 305 i believe getting a shortter nut, not only would be pointless, as mentioned above, but would also be weaker than the bolt we have now. also, shaving down your strut bar or dampener mounting plates would be sacrificing the structural integrity of the design and being less effective.
Well it looks like a new bracket just needs to be designed. A longer strut stud would easily fix the problem. The Si in the above pic has both mods, so why can't we? Someone with an 02-05 Si needs to measure the length of the strut studs.
Last edited by gipperkid; May 26, 2006 at 10:27 AM.
Guys talking about vibrations and strut bars fittment you forgot to look at the obious.
WHAT IS WRONG WITH HIS PICTURE
NOTHING YET?
Alright, compare dampner possition with the next picture.
Not yet?
Ok, the adjusting side of the dampner goes to the strut tower chassis not the engine mount.
Is the way the Ingalls logo is shown on the dampner and the way the product is presented in the instructions, it just lead you to belive is the way is installed.
HONEST MISTAKE.
AND:
The install instructions saids on step two it saids to locate the engine mount on the passenger side of the car, DEZOD may want to tell them our engine is the opposite way.
I thought that Ingalls must be using the universal Honda instructions ok but I just look at them again and on top it saids 2002-2005, also, I have a 2001 and it fitted.
I installed mine two days ago but I just got around to drive it today.
It feels good so far , vibration, DC srut bar problems overcomed.
Just need to play with the adjustment.
WHAT IS WRONG WITH HIS PICTURE
NOTHING YET?
Alright, compare dampner possition with the next picture.
Not yet?
Ok, the adjusting side of the dampner goes to the strut tower chassis not the engine mount.
Is the way the Ingalls logo is shown on the dampner and the way the product is presented in the instructions, it just lead you to belive is the way is installed.
HONEST MISTAKE.
AND:
The install instructions saids on step two it saids to locate the engine mount on the passenger side of the car, DEZOD may want to tell them our engine is the opposite way.
I thought that Ingalls must be using the universal Honda instructions ok but I just look at them again and on top it saids 2002-2005, also, I have a 2001 and it fitted.
I installed mine two days ago but I just got around to drive it today.
It feels good so far , vibration, DC srut bar problems overcomed.
Just need to play with the adjustment.
Last edited by Supermex; May 26, 2006 at 08:53 PM.
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Rep Power: 295 So Supermex, do you think I should just switch the damper ends?
I wonder which ever way you have it, if it matters which way its installed.
I'm gonna go outside now and reverse it and see if it feels any different. Thanks for pointing that out though, the instructions aren't really clear. Post some pics with yours installed now!
I wonder which ever way you have it, if it matters which way its installed.
I'm gonna go outside now and reverse it and see if it feels any different. Thanks for pointing that out though, the instructions aren't really clear. Post some pics with yours installed now!
Originally Posted by scansel912
So Supermex, do you think I should just switch the damper ends?
I wonder which ever way you have it, if it matters which way its installed.
I'm gonna go outside now and reverse it and see if it feels any different. Thanks for pointing that out though, the instructions aren't really clear. Post some pics with yours installed now!
I wonder which ever way you have it, if it matters which way its installed.
I'm gonna go outside now and reverse it and see if it feels any different. Thanks for pointing that out though, the instructions aren't really clear. Post some pics with yours installed now!
If you look at the dampner part desciption in your instructions it does indicates witch end goes where and the adjusting side of the dampner goes into the strut tower bracket.
I adjusted mine to 12 mm at the begining and it was a bit rough during ideling, my car exhaust sound like a domestic, Mustang throtle body and dual exhaust so my car shakes and sounds like a Harley I don't know, my wife likes it makes feel good down there
But I noticed inmediate response and very settle to the ground, no need for engine mounts if the stock are in good shape.
I wouldn't adjust them too hard, I like the 14mm factory setting is very confortable and almost suttle like a factory turbo car should work, in addition to the strut bars and my progresss suspention the car drove and feel just like a racing car should
.I wish that Ingalls added a wrench kit of some kind to adjust the settings is very hard with conventional tools.
They need something like you get with coil overs, my dampner is already scratched.
So in review:
Other then the need for tools, the strut bar variations and the instructions correction this is a very good product for the price of 170 offerd by Dezod witch service and promt delivery was no less than spectacular with the results and all.
Last edited by Supermex; May 27, 2006 at 05:45 PM.
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Rep Power: 295 Yeah I reversed mine and it didn't shake at idle as nearly as bad.
Im gonna edit the DIY so others don't make the same mistake as I did.
I contacted ingalls and they are making the neccesary changes to the instructions.
Post some pics Supermex!!!
Im gonna edit the DIY so others don't make the same mistake as I did.
I contacted ingalls and they are making the neccesary changes to the instructions.
Post some pics Supermex!!!
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Rep Power: 266 maybe im just blind, and it HAS been a while since i installed my neuspeed strut bar, but it doesnt look like it would be that much of a fitment issue. I can see where grindig the plate and the bar down some would help, but i think it would still fit without any work.
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Originally Posted by sil04ver
I really really want this.........I dont wanna lose my Neuspeed though. I hope someone comes up with a strut bar that fits with no mods.....or a way to do it witht he Neuspeed.
Originally Posted by scansel912
I posted this DIY on clubcivic and a member with a 7thgen claimed he installed it along with the neuspeed bar. He said it was close with the thread length but he said hes had it on for awhile now and has had no problems.
Here is a picture of mine with the DC sports strut bar.
I have caps installed on the strut tower bolts and I used silicon to keeping them in place, so you won't see the bolts.
The bracket installs on two bolts so the other bolt will have more space underneath so I palced a thick washer to keep it all even.
I changed the bolts, if you noticed the factory bolt is flat like a washer at the end so it creates separation, when using the braket for the dampner or the strut bar there is no need for that type bolt a regular bolt of the same thread count and size will work, not having the flaten end alouds for up to three theards to hold that bolt all the way, the brackes will disperse the preasure evenly.
I also counter sinked the hole in DC strut bracket for more space.
I have caps installed on the strut tower bolts and I used silicon to keeping them in place, so you won't see the bolts.
The bracket installs on two bolts so the other bolt will have more space underneath so I palced a thick washer to keep it all even.
I think now that if the DC sturt bracket gets milled .3mm in the two sides where the dampner bolts are attached and using regular bolts with out washer flare will do the job.
I had bolts in my tool box so I don't know exaclty the size.
I have caps installed on the strut tower bolts and I used silicon to keeping them in place, so you won't see the bolts.
The bracket installs on two bolts so the other bolt will have more space underneath so I palced a thick washer to keep it all even.
I changed the bolts, if you noticed the factory bolt is flat like a washer at the end so it creates separation, when using the braket for the dampner or the strut bar there is no need for that type bolt a regular bolt of the same thread count and size will work, not having the flaten end alouds for up to three theards to hold that bolt all the way, the brackes will disperse the preasure evenly.
I also counter sinked the hole in DC strut bracket for more space.
I have caps installed on the strut tower bolts and I used silicon to keeping them in place, so you won't see the bolts.
The bracket installs on two bolts so the other bolt will have more space underneath so I palced a thick washer to keep it all even.
I think now that if the DC sturt bracket gets milled .3mm in the two sides where the dampner bolts are attached and using regular bolts with out washer flare will do the job.
I had bolts in my tool box so I don't know exaclty the size.
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Originally Posted by gipperkid
Anyone with a Neuspeed strut bar bought the damper yet?
On clubcivic.com a guy said that it fit togheter. I'll confirm... I hope!
well i just recieved mine today.
i held the bracket up to the bolt and it seams that only 3 threads will not be used...my solution is im gonna use red loctite like a ****!
pics when i get to do it. (btw, i have the 3 piece spoon bar)
i held the bracket up to the bolt and it seams that only 3 threads will not be used...my solution is im gonna use red loctite like a ****!
pics when i get to do it. (btw, i have the 3 piece spoon bar)
