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maybe ingalls can make a new bracket with hollow holes to fit around the bar or something.

 
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damn i just realized ill have the same problem with my spoon strut bar.
i guess its the same boat, so feel free to PM me next week guys.
i think i might try to shave down the ingalls AND spoon bracket, then put loctite between both and on the bolts. but there is def a better way.

 
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so there is no room for a strut bar?

 
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Time for someone to test with a strut bar and come back with the results.

 
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ill do it if no1 else does first, i just ordered mine a few hours ago. i really dont think that it will fit easily though. some customization will be needed i think.

 
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Well, the Neuspeed strut bar only uses the two outside strut bolts. Only one bolt location would need to be modified.

 
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Very nice write-up and review!

Added to my wish list!

 
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IF YOU HAVE SS TEINS THE BOLTS ARE A LITTLE BIT LONGER THAN STOCK.

 
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Is that custom? I did not think that tein made pb mounts for our cars.

 
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No That The Way They Came. They Do Make Pb Mounts For Our Cars.

 
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Yes if you have aftermarket struts, they will have longer studs more then likely.

Also, since stud length is an issue, what about using shorter nuts to make up some of the room?

 
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Not a bad idea there. I was gonna say something like that.

Thanks for all of the recent orders fellas!

 
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Please everyone, if you have any questions, post here or PM me and i'll be glad to help.

 
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Did you play with the stifness adjustment?

Does it make a huge differentce on the driveability of the car?

 
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I didn't get to play wiht the stiffness too much. I have it on the 12mm setting with 10 mm being the stiffest and 15 mm being the softest. I'm at school right now so when I get back home I'll play around with it some.

 
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awesome write up! + rep for you!

 
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well i think the smaller nut could be a good idea.
are the ingalls mounts stainless steel or aluminum???
i think ill just cut the holes off and weld the bracket on (only if i see no solution.)

 
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They were pretty heavy duty so I'm gonna guess stainless. The damper itself is pure aluminum.

 
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More than likely just mild steel.

Thanks all of the recent orders. All going out today that did not go out yesterday!

 
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Let us know when you guys see what's up with the strut bar issues.

 
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I have the Neuspeed strut tower bar as well. I think perhaps in a worse case scenario where that and the damper won't fit I should take the strut bar off and just use the damper, since it seems like a more functional part. Definitely waiting to hear about any answers to the ominous strut bar question.

 
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I'm surprised more people didn't have questions about moving the clutch reservoir...

 
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That looked pretty much straight forward.

 
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Well, I got to looking at my Neuspeed strut bar last night. Worst case, it would be a choice between the damper or strut bar. The front bolt on the shock tower has no threads showing with the Neuspeed bar bolted on. Only the point is visible. So if you add the thickness of the damper mounting plate and the strut bar, the bolt becomes too short. Now a shorter nut would possiblY be the fix. But, of course, the only way to find out is to buy the damper and find shorter nut.

 
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Easy fix. Take the nut to a local hardware store, and find out what the pitch is and voila. OR go to Honda find out, and bam.......

 
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Anyway we can make this a sticky for awhile?

 
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Well, if I find a nut that will work I'll buy a kit and see what happens. I'll check this weekend. Anyone by chance, know the specs on that nut?

 
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I would not recommend replacing the stock nut with a short nut to accomodate the installation of a front upper strut bar. This has been bothering me for the past 2 days, and I can't find my old class notes. From what I remember, the tensile capacity of a nut connection is dependant on the number of threads in contact with the bolt. Therefore, reduce the threads and you reduce the capacity. The bolt and nut holding the suspensin to the frame are probably over-designed with a safety factor. But reducing the capacity of 1 of the 3 bolts may cause the short nut to fail if loaded in tension.

Tensile load would be caused by the suspension pulling downward (pot hole). So imagine going into a pot hole and you hear that awful clunk (we've all done it) then the short nut fails and your suspension then pivots since it only has 2 off center bolts holding it on. Not good.

I'm not saying this will happen, but there is the possibility. I would suggest looking into replacing the bolt (like Kingchile above). It would be an extra expense and endeavor but it would be the safe way.

And to clarify, even if a stronger grade nut was found, the tensile capacity would still be dependant on the strength of the bolt threads so it would still be the same outcome.

 
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Physics at it's best. Although I was thinking of another possibility. I can't remember how the Neuspeed strut bar is made, but on the mount that the damper plate and the bar both use it could be shortened. Just measeure the thickness of the damper plate and remove that amount of material from the bottom of the strut bar mount. Of course I really don't want to modify the strut bar, but both mods could be used then.

Anyone else have some ideas. I'm not sure I want to try a shortened nut. Where would I get a longer stud from????

 
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As far as a longer stud, I haven't took apart the strut and remember if they are easily replaceable. It would be nice if we got a suspension guru to chime in on this thread.