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Few posts down.

When Should I replace the fuel filter and what brand(s) is the best..?
I've noticed sluggish, hesitating acceleration on my 26,000 mile civic..

 
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yea me too, i notice the same crap. people post we need some info on this, i got about 30 thousand miles

 
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Ok ok. I highly doubt you need to change your fuel filters unless you often use cheap cheap gas. I use Mobil and Shell all the time. I upgraded to a larger pump (I have a converted return fuel system) at about 23,000 miles. There was barely anything in the filter at all. There was enough there to fit it all on the tip of a needle.

Another thing FYI, is that the fuel filter on our cars, is not the fuel filter of a conventional fuel system. It is part of the pump unit in the tank. You have to remove the whole pump assembly, take it apart, and remove the bracket and filter from the rear side of the pump etc etc. On a conventional fuel system it would just be a canister in the engine compartment, but it's not. I doubt you are going to find any difference from any different manufacturer of the filter aside from Honda themselves.

If you feel that you really need to do it, I suggest doing it yourself if you think you know what you are doing. You'll save a lot of money. I hear that work involved in the tank on returnless systems is pretty expensive. If you want some info, let me know. I'll give you the step by step.

 
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i asked a mechanic at honda.....and he told me it's near the engine??? i dont even know what it looks like.....haha

 
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I have heard that the fuel filter is in the gas tank. Dont know if it is true or not. I dont even worry about it.

 
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Step 1: Don't ever go back to that mechanic if he knew that you were talking to a 7th gen.

There's a fuel vapor filter though, but I can't see why that would ever need to be changed.

 
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That's right.

 
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if your having bad acceleration check your air filters and spark plugs. Honda doesnt say you need to replace the sparkplugs until like 100,000 miles, but some members here said their's was toasted after like 20,000 miles.

 
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It's better to do this when you are low on gas (1/4 or below) for the fact that when you pull the unit out, it's going to be covered in gas.

Tools etc:
Philips head screwdriver
Large flat screwdriver
Small flat screwdriver
Pliers
Rags

Parts:
P/N 368420 - Honda Fuel Filter (about $30)
P/N 26506 - Quick Connect Fitting (<$1)::: That's only if you break it, which I doubt would happen, but Honda suggests you change them whenever you disconnect the line.

Step 1: Depressurizing the system
Remove the tabs from the glovebox and drop it down. Right behind there you see two relays. I think one is blue and one is brown. Either way, remove the relay on the left. It's for the Fuel Injection system. Once the relay is removed, start the car and let it idle until it stalls itself out. The fuel system should then be depressurized. You can depressurize tank pressure by removing the filler cap. Since you can never fully depressurize the system, when you remove the line a little bit of fuel may dribble out.

Step 2: Remove the negative battery terminal from the battery.

Step 3: Locate the Fuel Pump unit.
The bottom section of the rear seat is just held in by large clips. There are only 2 (Left, Right). All you have to do is pull up on the bottom section and it should come loose. You don't really need to remove the bottom section, but if you feel like it, there is a bolt under the back piece where the seat splits. You should now see the a metal cover. Get a philips head screw driver and remove the four screws holding that cover on. Lift is aside and you can now see the top of the unit.

Step 4:
(Open your doors and vent)
Unclip the 5-wire harness on top of the unit. Now you can fully move that metal cover out if the way. Next is the plastic locking ring. Get a large flat tip screwdriver and place it against one of the notches. Make sure the handle is covered with something that won't create sparks. Knock the end of the screwdriver with a hammer so the locking ring starts to twist counter-clockwise. It might be tight at first, but eventually you should just be able to twist it off with your hand. Now you'll notice that the fuel line up top is in the way. You need to remove it. The fuel line has a quick connect fitting. Get a rag ready just incase, and push the two white tabs inward and pull on the fuel line, it comes off easy. Collect any fuel on the rag, and wrap the end of the line in a plasic bag or rag and seal it with a rubber band so fumes or extra gas isn't coming out.

Step 5: Removing the unit
All you really need to do is pull up and the unit starts to pop out. It takes a little maneuvering to get it all out, but not that hard at all. Just make sure you aren't putting a lot of strength to take it out, because you don't need parts breaking off in the tank (which aren't hard to retrieve just incase that does happen, it's a small tank). You also have to maneuver the Fuel Level Sender out which is on the end of the unit. Just be careful not to bend it. When you pull the unit out, there is sure to be some fuel in it. Let as much drain out as you can inside the tank. Your best bet would then be to place the unit in a bucket or something and move out of the car to work on it. Cover the hole in the tank with something too so your car doesn't end up smelling like fuel for days.

Step 6: Disassembling the unit
When you see the unit, it's a pretty straight forward "clip on/off" assembly. Unclip the harnesses from the top of the unit (they can only go one way, so no need to label them). Unclip the joints on the base that hold the top assemble on. This should just open up a little more space to work on the inside. Unclip the top section of the base that hold the fuel pump. You'll niotice that the fuel pump is also encloded inside a plastic cage. Unclip the back section of the cage, remove the power harness, and pull the unit out (mind the rubber seal if it comes out, just pop it back in. And there is a white plastic collar around the pump outlet, keep an eye on it). You should now have your fuel pump and fuel filter in your hands.

Step 7: Replacing the fuel filter
Take a small flat tipped screwdriver and pry of the washer on the back of the unit. Bend it, break it, who cares. It's part of the new filter assembly anyway. Remove the fuel filter. Take your new filter and put it in the same place. Take the new washer and get it onto that post (needle nose pliers and a little pressure does the job). Viola! A new fuel filter!

Step 8: Reassembling the Unit
Pull the plastic collar back around the pump outlet, and make sure the rubber seal (ring) is back in its place. Get the pump assembly back into the cage and snap it together. Plug the power harness back into place. Place the cage into the base of the unit, and snap the cover back on. Snap the swivel joints that connect the top and base together. Reconnect the two harnesses to the top. Make sure the unit is clean, and remaneuver it back into the tank.

Step 9: Sealing
You can't really just push the top back down because it has the black seal that goes around the inside of the hole in the tank. You need to push is down a little, and run your finger around it making sure the rubber isn't caught outside. Twisting the top back and forth is a trick I picked up. Did the job most the time, but you have to have the majority of the seal inside already. This is spring loaded though, so you have to push down at the same time. Once you have the seal set, put the plastic locking ring on while still pushing down on the unit. Tighted it as much as you can by hand. Then get out the ol' screwdriver and hammer with the rag or whatever and give it a few knocks so it rotates clockwise and tightens. You don't need to over tighten it. It's not going to go anywhere even if you only hand tightened it.

Reconnect the fuel line. It just snaps back into place. Make sure you pull on it a little to see that it doesn't come off. Reconnect the 5 wire harnress to the top. Place the metal cover back on and tighten the 4 screws (not too tight, they are set in plastic and it will just strip).

Pull the seat back down. Clip it into place. Put the fuel filler cap on, etc etc.

Put the FI relay back into place. Connect the negative terminal.

Step 10: Priming and Starting
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position. Give the lines a few seconds to pressurize. Turn it to the OFF position. Turn it back to ON, give it a couple of seconds and start the car. It might need to turn over a couple times, but not too many. Go drive around or something. I think your mom wanted some milk at the store. Here's a couple dollars.

 
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So basically if the fuel filter is in the fuel tank, have fun changing it.

 
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Good DIY - but even tho its a PITA I'd do this with the tank full, instead of empty. Fumes ignite more easier than liquid gas does, and when the tank is empty there will be a LOT more fumes than when its full....just play it safe.

 
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Great DIY, thanks for taking the time to write that up. About the last step though, I think your suppose to let your car idle for 10 minutes without stepping on the gas... or was it 20 minutes? Something like that. Thanks again, its a keeper.

 
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Very good DIY..

 
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um i have 110k on my 01 civic and i have zero problems. runs strong from the day i bought it.

 
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so basically we don't have to change the fuel filter..? unless....symptoms..?

 
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Well you still dont know if its your fuel filter could be a number of things i suggest first trying some sort of in tank fuel system cleaner chevron products work well. Then see what happens . If it clears up lightly but does still feel sluggish you could try a stronger form of fuel system cleaner but its not in tank its done by disabling the fuel pump and using this cleaner you attach to the fuel line and start the car it cleans the valves and gets all the carbon build up out of your motor . But you shoudnt have too much since the car only has what 30 or 40 thousand miles on it . Before you go thru that i would check the intake filter and spark plugs. If you have done all theses things and the car still feels sluggish then i would take the fuel filter out and see if its colgged or anything . If it is then replace it . Are you shur its not just slow cause it a automatic im not doubting you but since ive been driving my 5 speed civic with mods i drove my sisters auto focus the other day and it felt terribly slow althoug the car runs perfectly fine it just felt slow compared to my civic .

 
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i doubt its your fuel filter. boosted2k2 def knows what he's talkin bout, he's helped me many times. but if your going to do it run your tank low, so when you pull out the pump the gas level isnt all the way up to the top it can get messy!!!

 
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anybody have any pics, i wanna see this before i do it....i can't read!!!!

 
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Throw some fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank and clean out your throttle body well with a carb cleaner. Air filters and spark plugs, check them, should be all you need to do with a civic. Make sure you don't get any carb cleaner on any of the hoses as it likes to eat through shtuff...enjoy!

 
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my cars fine, i just work on cars and would lik to see what it looks like..thanks though