PiNoY Ep3 SI

Dont know if this is in the right section so mods please move if needed.
ALSO I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGED HEADLIGHTS THIS IS JUST A GUIDE.

Tools needed
1. microfiber cloths
2. Meguiars Plastic-x
3. Bucket with a little car wash.
4. 800 grit 1500 grit and 2000 grit sand paper. You can go up to 3000 grit if wanted.
5. Buffer (optional)
6. Blue painters tape.


Here is a before pics of the headlights before i started. The car is my gf's 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T



Before you get started go ahead and put about a table spoon of car wash into the bucket with a gallon of water. Take sheets of sand paper and put then in the bucket and allow them to soak for about 5-10min.
While the sand paper is soaking. start off by masking around the headlights to prevent any paint from being scratched.
Should look like this when finished.

After you have the lights masked off take some soapy water and clean off the headlight. Once clean take your lowest grit sand paper in my case it was 800 grit then start sanding in one direction either up and down or left to right. DO NOT SAND IN A CIRCULAR MOTION. After the 800 grit paper the light should look really hazy and scuffed up.
800 grit

After you are finished with the 800 grit do the same thing with the 1500 but go in a different direction. If you went left to right go up and down.
1500 grit

Once your finished with the 1500 do the same thing with the 2000 and again go in a different direction.
2000 grit

Once you are done sanding take a buffer and apply some Meguiars Plastic-x to the headlight. If you do not have a buffer you can do this step by hand it will take longer but you will get similar results. I only buffed each headlight for about 5min you can get better results by buffing them longer but yeah of course i got lazy. If your using a buffer do not apply to much pressure and dont stay in one area to long because to much heat will cause the headlight to warp.
Once your done buffing take some wax and put a coat on to protect the headlights from hazing up later on.
Here are pics after using the Plastic-x the buffer and wax.

Before


After





If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask.

pspbrewster

I just made a similar post the other day. I can't say enough about this product. The best five bucks I have ever spent.

PiNoY Ep3 SI

I have to agree it works on just about any smooth plastic surface on your car

Acem2ex

Yeah I totally just took apart my front end the other day just to clean my headlights, I have to say if your going to do all this though, use some Rubbing Compound to fill in the scratches that the 2000 grit leaves behind, then top it with Plastx, I like disassembling and doing it though, because you can do a more even sand job, although with the VW, it kinda has flat headlights anyways :P

lordhelmet

iTrader: (3)

There won't be any protection from getting hazy again after sanding so be sure to keep the headlights protected.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

^ the protection thats there in the first place (factory UV coating) is what causes the problem to begin with. it absorbs uv and then starts to fade/yellow/crack. you dont want it. get all that junk off, then use wolfgang plastic sealer every 1-2 months to keep them looking like new. it would be ideal to use the wolfgang BEFORE the uv layer turns yellow so sanding is never needed, but once the damage is done its already too late and not worth buying new headlamps over.

cameojoe

OK, so i imagine if anybody has been seeing my posts ill be getting a reputation for asking retarded questions and not knowing anything about anything. So, in that respect....

The last step in this process, the buffering, am i to assume I am using a microfiber cloth to buffer out the light or am i supposed to be using one of the foam ones? I don't see any foam pads in the pic or hear any mention of one and I'm guessing its microfibers because all our earlier sanding did any surface removal needed, but then again, I dont really know what im doing....

lowlife9

go to walmart or autozone and get a 3M headlight restoration kit it come with everything you need.

cameojoe

Yeah I can do that, I was just thinking since I own everything listed in this guide except a buffer or foam buffer pads.... so if i can save some money by not buying some things twice that would be nice.

lowlife9

well the 3m kit comes with a buffing drill attachment for 15 bucks that can be used over and over or you could buff by hand but the outcome wont be as good or buy a buffer for 25 30 bucks.

cameojoe

Yeah I think thats probably a good call. Mine as well invest a few bucks now n not have to worry bout future buff situations. Thanks for the help.

rattler

I just did that today, bought a Meguiars kit at Walmart for $19.99 that included the polish, a cloth, and a buffing wheel for the drill. It came out really nice. Looks almost new.

I really have to question why you used sandpaper, especially 800 grit. You're dealing with clear plastic, not sheetmetal or wood. For those who have not done this yet, try following the Meguiars instructions first. It took me more time to mask the area with tape than it did to polish the plastic.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

if its really bad haze, you need sandpaper otherwise plastic polish alone wont work.

xbphjx

i used just the kit without the sandpaper months ago and i wasnt happy with it at all sure my drivers side came out decent but the passenger side didnt change so ive been reading a few diys and im going to do the 800 through 300 grits

but, does anyone know if you can do the inner side of the lenses with the same instructions or will that ruin the lenses?
i plan to do a diy black housing on my lamps

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

inner lenses get scratched just by wiping them with a cotton cloth. and usually there is never any damage to the back side except for water spots if you have a leaky light and water gets in. and in that case, water is all thats recommended.

Leesupport

Now in my case in my 89 Crx they are glass head lamp, would it be advisable to do the same thing?


@ Gearbox.
Mine get water spots in there, use water to fix it?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

glass is much easier, very hard to scratch. you can wipe both sides down with almost anything. i suggest some good 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol to clean off water spots and stuff, you may even need a harsh cleaner tho if that doesnt work. and use water and a microfiber towel to polish them up. then rain-x window wax to seal them and bead water off.

on a side note, i am restoring my tyc plastic lenses and i found that a good way to skip the sanding steps is to just get the tubs of turtle wax rubbing compound (brown paste) and polish (white paste). they are only about $3.50 each. use the rubbing compound first til the whole plastic gets hazy, this is like wetsanding. then use the polish to take out some of the bigger scratches, then a finer polish like megs scratch-x, and finally i waxed and sealed with wolfgang clear plastic sealer. still has alot of scratch but looks much clearer. there is no way to completely remove all the scratches tho no matter how much polishing you do.

Leesupport

Alright ill give that a try, one more question, how hard is it to take the lights apart? Heard you had to stick them in an oven to loosen the glue or something.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

or just use a heat gun on low. it takes longer, but it will work. just keep going around the edges and slowly pry them apart. usually you can use the same goo to seal them back by reheating. or if you need to add more, pick up some butyl window ribbon sealer from auto store (3m windoweld).

210italian

iTrader: (1)

I had my old headlights laying around they were hazed up like hell and I came across this thread. Best 5 Bucks I've ever spent, Low and behold the before and after! Gonna JDM these bitches up!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

WOW what a difference!

210italian

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I bought the Meguiars Plastic-x Kit, comes with a buffer pad for my drill, eff doing that crap by hand man!

Awjvail

Holy crap... it looks like you were driving through St Elmo's fire or something.


What a difference though. I think I'm gonna polish up my headlights tonight.

2002silverb

iTrader: (1)

Does the yellow haze build up on just the outside surface of the headlight, or the inside of it as well?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

almost always on the outer lens. you may get some water spots inside if the lights got foggy, but all the problems are on the outside.

qijian

iTrader: (6)

so which kit to get? 3M restoration kit? or Meguiars Plastic-X kit? i see the 3M on ebay for like $15 shipped all the time

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i would get the turtle wax rubbing and polishing compounds from walmart for around $2 each in a paste jar. those will be your "liquid sandpaper" so use the rubbing compound if the lights have really bad haze. then use polishing compound, and finally plast-x ($6). thats really all you need for a total of $10 its cheaper than the kit and you have enough stuff to do 10 headlights. ofcourse i like to finish it off with wolfgang plastic sealer, but that costs $40 a bottle.

lowlife9

if its just a light haze just get the rubbing compound if its heavy or there are alot of pits the 3M kit is what you want.
you start with
1.dry sanding with p500 to get rid of chips,pits,imperfections
2.then dry sand with p800
3.then wet sand with p3000
4. finally polish with compound
this is a how to video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t1RBw0IGXA

mcmurtry1986

the fastest and easiest way if you have a high speed buffer jus use that plasx stuff or any other plastic cleaner and buff them with your high speed buffer, ive done it plenty of times and only takes a couple min, no sanding or nothin jus buff it with the plastic cleaner

Davinci187

Toothpaste with baking soda and an old rag shines lights up great! And its all in the bathroom already