Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
06-30-2013
#61
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Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
Ok THANKS I think the one (02 sensor ) that came out was a NTK but if putting a denso one will fix the issue Ill get one.
ALSO the light is actually out now .
ALSO the light is actually out now .
06-30-2013
#62
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
I do know why I always want OEM as my first choice though. (The parts catalog does not normally tell who the OEM was for any particular part.)
All I know is the computer did not like what it saw, for some reason.
It's up to you to find out why.
Firing the parts cannon can't fix all problems...no matter how much DangerZone wants you to believe....
06-30-2013
#63
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Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
Your wrong ezone... Firing the OEM parts cannon WILL eventually fix the problem.. Just might cost 2000 times more than it would diagnosing it properly.
06-30-2013
#64
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
True, but it seems that most people only afford to carpetbomb using the cheapest parts possible....you know, because they are cheap.
06-30-2013
#65
Whachya lookin at?
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The other problem, here anyway. 95% of the time anything even slightly complicated the dealer will diagnose wrong (which I proved a few times already). I'm not knocking you, because you know what's going on. Not all dealer techs do though.
06-30-2013
#66
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
Rare, of course....but they do happen. LOL
PM you in a few minutes...
06-30-2013
#67
Whachya lookin at?
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Haha got er 
I'm going to have to go through that thread a little more thoroughly thought lol. Getting ready to put kids to bed.
I'm going to have to go through that thread a little more thoroughly thought lol. Getting ready to put kids to bed.
07-16-2013
#68
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My engine oil light stays on for a second even after car starts up... this only happens on cold engine start and the light never comes back on during driving.. and if i turn the car off and start the engine again light shuts off immediately. is it normal??
P.s the oil has been changed recently with 5w-20 synthetic. and oil levels are fine
P.s the oil has been changed recently with 5w-20 synthetic. and oil levels are fine
07-16-2013
#69
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
Sounds normal to me. The filter probably drains out after sitting a few hours and the system has to refill it (takes a second or two or three) before pressure builds enough to turn the light off. Again, sounds normal to me.
08-13-2013
#72
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
08-31-2013
#75
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i got CEL ON today so went in to get it checked ... seems like its "catalytic converter operating below threshold" ... mechanic old me not to worry abt and he cleared it.. i think i need second opinion here as to if what he did was the right thing..
09-02-2013
#76
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
If what I see in the computer data list leads me to believe the cat is still intact and not completely wiped out, I try to give the customer a couple options:
Clear the code and see how long it takes for it to reset the same code again,
or spend a crapton of money on it right now.
Reasoning: The cat could be right at that borderline between pass and fail on the test.
Super short trips can "soot" the cat and cause a fail, a hard highway run might clear it out.
Also could be a false fail, like due to exhaust leaks and such (needs checked).
Most people have me clear the code, and wait to see what happens..
Some stay off for several months, some come back within days.
The computer makes that judgement, not me.
HTH
09-03-2013
#77
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I might have done the same, but would have asked you first.
If what I see in the computer data list leads me to believe the cat is still intact and not completely wiped out, I try to give the customer a couple options:
Clear the code and see how long it takes for it to reset the same code again,
or spend a crapton of money on it right now.
Reasoning: The cat could be right at that borderline between pass and fail on the test.
Super short trips can "soot" the cat and cause a fail, a hard highway run might clear it out.
Also could be a false fail, like due to exhaust leaks and such (needs checked).
Most people have me clear the code, and wait to see what happens..
Some stay off for several months, some come back within days.
The computer makes that judgement, not me.
HTH
If what I see in the computer data list leads me to believe the cat is still intact and not completely wiped out, I try to give the customer a couple options:
Clear the code and see how long it takes for it to reset the same code again,
or spend a crapton of money on it right now.
Reasoning: The cat could be right at that borderline between pass and fail on the test.
Super short trips can "soot" the cat and cause a fail, a hard highway run might clear it out.
Also could be a false fail, like due to exhaust leaks and such (needs checked).
Most people have me clear the code, and wait to see what happens..
Some stay off for several months, some come back within days.
The computer makes that judgement, not me.
HTH
also what u mean by"a hard highway run might clear it out"?
09-03-2013
#78
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
So you are saying i should wait and see if it comes back ?
also what u mean by"a hard highway run might clear it out"?
Carbon buildup (soot) hinders the cats' ability to store and release Oxygen as designed), a 10-20 mile highway run and/or several hard acceleration runs can get the cat hot enough to burn off the soot.
Probably not your situation though....I seemed to mainly see this on older cars that went less than a mile or two each time it is run, for weeks at a time. I don't think I have seen it in several years.
09-07-2013
#79
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I might have done the same, but would have asked you first.
If what I see in the computer data list leads me to believe the cat is still intact and not completely wiped out, I try to give the customer a couple options:
Clear the code and see how long it takes for it to reset the same code again,
or spend a crapton of money on it right now.
Reasoning: The cat could be right at that borderline between pass and fail on the test.
Super short trips can "soot" the cat and cause a fail, a hard highway run might clear it out.
Also could be a false fail, like due to exhaust leaks and such (needs checked).
Most people have me clear the code, and wait to see what happens..
Some stay off for several months, some come back within days.
The computer makes that judgement, not me.
HTH
If what I see in the computer data list leads me to believe the cat is still intact and not completely wiped out, I try to give the customer a couple options:
Clear the code and see how long it takes for it to reset the same code again,
or spend a crapton of money on it right now.
Reasoning: The cat could be right at that borderline between pass and fail on the test.
Super short trips can "soot" the cat and cause a fail, a hard highway run might clear it out.
Also could be a false fail, like due to exhaust leaks and such (needs checked).
Most people have me clear the code, and wait to see what happens..
Some stay off for several months, some come back within days.
The computer makes that judgement, not me.
HTH
got it checked its the same code p0420. now funny part is when i was driving my car back home from mechanic the light went off byitself. nobody reseted the code.
09-07-2013
#80
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
I'd call that a borderline failure. Prepare to buy a good one to keep the light off.
09-07-2013
#81
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a good one? which one is good?. i asked for original from dealer and its costing me $1300. to be honest car doesnt have that much life left may 5 years at most. i dont feel like spending that much money.any work around?
09-07-2013
#82
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
Off the top of my head.....
First, figure out the reason the cat has gone bad. If it died because of a running problem, that needs corrected first. A new cat can be ruined in only a few minutes if the engine runs bad enough.
But if it is dying of old age (high mileage), that's probably average.
Does your car have to pass an emissions test?
Does the light bother you?
Do you hug trees?
Best choice is always factory parts.
Next good choice would be California CARB approved cat
Another good choice might be an original equipment, used cat with low miles.
Then there's the "thrifty" parts---- you might get what you pay for, but don't hold your breath. (Some people end up paying more than a factory cat would have cost in the first place.)
And then there is....... the cheating alternatives.
Only 5 years left? Is it rusting away or something?
First, figure out the reason the cat has gone bad. If it died because of a running problem, that needs corrected first. A new cat can be ruined in only a few minutes if the engine runs bad enough.
But if it is dying of old age (high mileage), that's probably average.
Does your car have to pass an emissions test?
Does the light bother you?
Do you hug trees?
Best choice is always factory parts.
Next good choice would be California CARB approved cat
Another good choice might be an original equipment, used cat with low miles.
Then there's the "thrifty" parts---- you might get what you pay for, but don't hold your breath. (Some people end up paying more than a factory cat would have cost in the first place.)
And then there is....... the cheating alternatives.
Only 5 years left? Is it rusting away or something?
09-07-2013
#83
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Off the top of my head.....
First, figure out the reason the cat has gone bad. If it died because of a running problem, that needs corrected first. A new cat can be ruined in only a few minutes if the engine runs bad enough.
But if it is dying of old age (high mileage), that's probably average.
Does your car have to pass an emissions test?
Does the light bother you?
Do you hug trees?
Best choice is always factory parts.
Next good choice would be California CARB approved cat
Another good choice might be an original equipment, used cat with low miles.
Then there's the "thrifty" parts---- you might get what you pay for, but don't hold your breath. (Some people end up paying more than a factory cat would have cost in the first place.)
And then there is....... the cheating alternatives.
Only 5 years left? Is it rusting away or something?
First, figure out the reason the cat has gone bad. If it died because of a running problem, that needs corrected first. A new cat can be ruined in only a few minutes if the engine runs bad enough.
But if it is dying of old age (high mileage), that's probably average.
Does your car have to pass an emissions test?
Does the light bother you?
Do you hug trees?
Best choice is always factory parts.
Next good choice would be California CARB approved cat
Another good choice might be an original equipment, used cat with low miles.
Then there's the "thrifty" parts---- you might get what you pay for, but don't hold your breath. (Some people end up paying more than a factory cat would have cost in the first place.)
And then there is....... the cheating alternatives.
Only 5 years left? Is it rusting away or something?
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