gearbox

iTrader: (95)

ORIGINALLY POSTED BY BOOSTED 2K2

It's better to do this when you are low on gas (1/4 or below) for the fact that when you pull the unit out, it's going to be covered in gas.

Tools etc:
Philips head screwdriver
Large flat screwdriver
Small flat screwdriver
Pliers
Rags

Parts:
P/N 368420 - Honda Fuel Filter (about $30)
P/N 26506 - Quick Connect Fitting (<$1)::: That's only if you break it, which I doubt would happen, but Honda suggests you change them whenever you disconnect the line.

Step 1: Depressurizing the system
Remove the tabs from the glovebox and drop it down. Right behind there you see two relays. I think one is blue and one is brown. Either way, remove the relay on the left. It's for the Fuel Injection system. Once the relay is removed, start the car and let it idle until it stalls itself out. The fuel system should then be depressurized. You can depressurize tank pressure by removing the filler cap. Since you can never fully depressurize the system, when you remove the line a little bit of fuel may dribble out.

Step 2: Remove the negative battery terminal from the battery.

Step 3: Locate the Fuel Pump unit.
The bottom section of the rear seat is just held in by large clips. There are only 2 (Left, Right). All you have to do is pull up on the bottom section and it should come loose. You don't really need to remove the bottom section, but if you feel like it, there is a bolt under the back piece where the seat splits. You should now see the a metal cover. Get a philips head screw driver and remove the four screws holding that cover on. Lift is aside and you can now see the top of the unit.

Step 4:
(Open your doors and vent)
Unclip the 5-wire harness on top of the unit. Now you can fully move that metal cover out if the way. Next is the plastic locking ring. Get a large flat tip screwdriver and place it against one of the notches. Make sure the handle is covered with something that won't create sparks. Knock the end of the screwdriver with a hammer so the locking ring starts to twist counter-clockwise. It might be tight at first, but eventually you should just be able to twist it off with your hand. Now you'll notice that the fuel line up top is in the way. You need to remove it. The fuel line has a quick connect fitting. Get a rag ready just incase, and push the two white tabs inward and pull on the fuel line, it comes off easy. Collect any fuel on the rag, and wrap the end of the line in a plasic bag or rag and seal it with a rubber band so fumes or extra gas isn't coming out.

Step 5: Removing the unit
All you really need to do is pull up and the unit starts to pop out. It takes a little maneuvering to get it all out, but not that hard at all. Just make sure you aren't putting a lot of strength to take it out, because you don't need parts breaking off in the tank (which aren't hard to retrieve just incase that does happen, it's a small tank). You also have to maneuver the Fuel Level Sender out which is on the end of the unit. Just be careful not to bend it. When you pull the unit out, there is sure to be some fuel in it. Let as much drain out as you can inside the tank. Your best bet would then be to place the unit in a bucket or something and move out of the car to work on it. Cover the hole in the tank with something too so your car doesn't end up smelling like fuel for days.

Step 6: Disassembling the unit
When you see the unit, it's a pretty straight forward "clip on/off" assembly. Unclip the harnesses from the top of the unit (they can only go one way, so no need to label them). Unclip the joints on the base that hold the top assemble on. This should just open up a little more space to work on the inside. Unclip the top section of the base that hold the fuel pump. You'll niotice that the fuel pump is also encloded inside a plastic cage. Unclip the back section of the cage, remove the power harness, and pull the unit out (mind the rubber seal if it comes out, just pop it back in. And there is a white plastic collar around the pump outlet, keep an eye on it). You should now have your fuel pump and fuel filter in your hands.

Step 7: Replacing the fuel filter
Take a small flat tipped screwdriver and pry of the washer on the back of the unit. Bend it, break it, who cares. It's part of the new filter assembly anyway. Remove the fuel filter. Take your new filter and put it in the same place. Take the new washer and get it onto that post (needle nose pliers and a little pressure does the job). Viola! A new fuel filter!

Step 8: Reassembling the Unit
Pull the plastic collar back around the pump outlet, and make sure the rubber seal (ring) is back in its place. Get the pump assembly back into the cage and snap it together. Plug the power harness back into place. Place the cage into the base of the unit, and snap the cover back on. Snap the swivel joints that connect the top and base together. Reconnect the two harnesses to the top. Make sure the unit is clean, and remaneuver it back into the tank.

Step 9: Sealing
You can't really just push the top back down because it has the black seal that goes around the inside of the hole in the tank. You need to push is down a little, and run your finger around it making sure the rubber isn't caught outside. Twisting the top back and forth is a trick I picked up. Did the job most the time, but you have to have the majority of the seal inside already. This is spring loaded though, so you have to push down at the same time. Once you have the seal set, put the plastic locking ring on while still pushing down on the unit. Tighted it as much as you can by hand. Then get out the ol' screwdriver and hammer with the rag or whatever and give it a few knocks so it rotates clockwise and tightens. You don't need to over tighten it. It's not going to go anywhere even if you only hand tightened it.

Reconnect the fuel line. It just snaps back into place. Make sure you pull on it a little to see that it doesn't come off. Reconnect the 5 wire harnress to the top. Place the metal cover back on and tighten the 4 screws (not too tight, they are set in plastic and it will just strip).

Pull the seat back down. Clip it into place. Put the fuel filler cap on, etc etc.

Put the FI relay back into place. Connect the negative terminal.

Step 10: Priming and Starting
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position. Give the lines a few seconds to pressurize. Turn it to the OFF position. Turn it back to ON, give it a couple of seconds and start the car. It might need to turn over a couple times, but not too many. Go drive around or something. I think your mom wanted some milk at the store. Here's a couple dollars.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

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Un4givenshadow

Hey! This looks really useful! Thank you! I can't wait to get paid so I can buy the stuf I need so I can do this! Great DIY

green01civic

I found that my relay was stuck in, and not coming out if my life depended on it. Even gripped it with some pliers with rubber boots to see if I could free it... no way, no how.

Easier was just to disconnect the wiring harness from the fuel pump (since you have to do that anyway. Saves the trouble of emptying the glove box, too), start the car and let it die.

BAD INTENT

ALWAYS disconnect the positive side of the battery!!! The ground can touch body or any metal then the wiring is hot again.

spartakus

^ good point

oakvillian

If the battery terminal is disconnected the circuit is broken. That will work with either the positive or the negative terminal. I always disconnect the negative because if I accidentally make contact with any part metal part of the car while the wrench is still connected to the battery clamp, it will not short. If you remove the positive cable first and accidentally make contact with the wrench and the still grounded car body, the sparks will fly. I really don't understand why you said to ALWAYS disconnect the positive side.

kinakoes2

EDIT: Both oakvillian and I obviously saw a common misconception here... he's just types a lot faster!

@oakvillian: the reason why the pos cable makes sparks fly, is because when you bring it close enough to the battery pos terminal, there's already a clear path to ground. This isn't as bad on the ground side, because the current has to travel through all the wiring and all the loads, before getting to the terminal -- less spark. This is why making sure the ground connections on your vehicle are clean and protected, is so vital to long-term electrical system health: it's a lot easier for corrosion to resist the weaker potential on the ground side vs. the hot side.

I have some doubts about this. Any circuit needs a way to get back to the negative terminal to run any amount of current. If you disconnect the neg cable clamp and set it aside, you've eliminated *all* potential in the body, looms, loads, and electrical components from a return to battery ground, thus removing *all* potential for current.

Been working on powersports since 1997, and never lost a component or suffered any damage or injury just getting the neg cable disconnected and moved away. The amount of potential needed to use your body to connect to earth is far, far above what's in a 12VDC automotive system.

The only exception I can think of is a heavy duty capacitor, which is in itself a type of battery. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about the positive cable.

ezone

Disconnecting the battery is good, but electricity doesn't work this way.


You'd be correct.

Always disconnect the ground.
Even if the vehicle uses a positive ground system, it's the chassis ground you disconnect.




Man, sometimes I hate sticking my nose in these old threads.

ezone

A little over a full year faster.

biz4two

Thanks for posting the DIY.


biz