RallyEX

I've searched and read many FAQ's, posts, etc. in many places (including this site) but have found very little helpful information in learning more about autocrossing my 2001 Civic specifically.

I have driven in 2 events in the H-Stock category on street tires and am preparing to order a set of Falken Azenis for my 16" rota circuit 8's for autocrossing.

A few questions to ask, simple opinions:

Would it be best to autocross on a 15" wheel with Azenis (f.e. a size of 205/50/15) or a 16" wheel (205/45/16)?

As I am a beginner, would anyone suggest any kind of suspension/suspension geometry changes that would still allow me to remain in H Stock?

Does anyone recommend a tire besides the Azenis? Perhaps the Victoracer?

Any other recommendations to help me shave time, other than gaining more experience? (Which I know, I am in need of that more than anything.)

Thanks in advance.

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Well, I recommend you NOT use an R compound tire (like a Victoracer) at first as the rediculous grip they provide tends to mask mistakes in driving. Use something like an Azenis on STOCK wheels (you need to keep the 15x6" dimensions of the wheels for stock class). Smaller wheels are always better (less rotational inertia, cheaper tires). If you've only run 2 events, don't touch anything. The key is to make it as difficult to drive as you can, that way you learn the right way to control the car, as you improve, then you start adding parts. Suspension geometry wise, you can't add adjustment parts, but you can push as much camber into the front as the stock crash bolts allow (maybe a degree if you're lucky). If Honda has a part number for offset or smaller crash bolts (I don't think they do), then you can change it, but if not, then you're stuck with what you got. You can change the brake pads and shoes, but nothing else in the system, you can also change the shocks to something like Koni Yellows, but keep the stock springs to stay in stock class. I wouldn't put too much money into the car for at least the first year, learn to control the car first, then add on piece by piece.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

yeah listen to Boilermaker. The rules are in the Autox FAQ and also at the top of this forum. Stay in stock class for a while. Konis are a good upgrade because then if you decide to lower later on you have a good shock. Get some azenis on a stock sized wheel and you should be good to go. Drive a year on that and see what happens, then start to change parts. You can also get a catback exhaust, but no intake or header.

For the first year concentrate on driving. Save your money and take a driving school, even if you have to drive on stock tires. I wish I had gone that route, but it was too late.

You can't drive with 16" wheels in stock class unless your car came with them. You need either a 14" or 15" depending on what trim civic you have.

PrecisnTec

iTrader: (2)

What I did was go down to the junk yard, got some 14 x 5.5 wheels (which for my car is stock as they are also found on acura integras) and ordered falken azenis 195 60 14's for like $45 each from vulcantire.com . Deffinitly get some seat time in. Use those tires strictly for racing. They don't last long as street tires. low tread life, really soft.

RallyEX

Thanks for the good advice... perhaps a few more questions. Back in the day I got a great deal on a set of DC-Sports Front-Upper Strut and rear lower tie bars...

Are these doing me any good? I always thought the DC Front upper strut bar did more for looks than anything else, and I was thinking of selling it in favor of a Neuspeed unit, which I hear are more effective. Should I hang on to the rear tie bar?

I already have a Thermal R&D full stainless cat-back, and I really love that exhaust, so I don't plan on getting rid of it.

The koni yellows seem awfully difficult to install, or at least they used to be... do you still have to hack apart the front strut assembly to install them? Would some of the other struts (i.e. KYB, etc.) be as effective without destroying the front strut assemblies?

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

DC bars are worthless. Don't bother. Get the neuspeed upper front but you can't use it in stock class.
Cat back is stock class legal.
I got Konis into the housings in about 3 or 4 hours. Its a pain, but not hard. You still have to hack the fronts up, but its not as big a deal as people make it out to be. Tokicos and KYBs don't need to be hacked up.

RallyEX

Well, the koni's will be a future purchase, as money is a bit tight at the moment...

So, in other words, it would probably be in my best interest just to remove the front DC strut bar all together?

As far as Azenis are concerned... I probably am going to have to purchase another set of wheels. I have all-seasons on my stock wheels (for winter, etc.)... I was considering autocrossing with my 16" Rota's, but it sounds like many think that is a bad idea....

So, looks like I'll get a few more autocrosses under my belt and look in to 15" wheels with Azenis.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Rule number 1 is to mod for the class and stick with it. I say run a year or so in stock and if you really want to mod then start modding for STS. I suggest taking the strut bar off because it is illegal (and a piece of crap...). If you want to stay in stock, then you need to get wheels the same size as your stock rims which are either 14 or 15 X 5.5. Just pick up a set of stock steelies and slap some azenis on there.

Pete W.

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to buy an extra set of wheels put some falkens on the stock wheels and some good all-seasons on the 16's. As for your strut bars and tie bars take them off. And I agree with everyone work on the driver first get as much seat time as you can. Talk to people in your region gather as much info as you can, some will be crap but if you don't ask you won't learn.

Driving schools are very important try to find an evolution school close to you. The instructors are all national champs or national trophy winners. What you will learn from them will equal to about one or two seasons of trial and error.